Russ_16v's ITB'd & Caged 182 Track Car (Was Crispy's)

[Ali]

Good man!

 

[sideways danny]

Good luck with the brake bias

LOL. Spinuuuuu

 

[Jay Payne]

LOL. Spinuuuuu

PMSL, Hai

 

[DaveW_cup]

Yes mate, looked awesome.
PM Me where you got that 3/4 height no. plate from please.

 

[Triki]

Sub frame will be coming off but wont be getting powdercoated. I did want to but no one near me powedercoats for a realistic price. So its just gona be cleaned up and sprayed just so it doesnt look rusty colour.

Silver or black subframe?

http://www.oif.uk.com/services.html

Try these guys.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Good luck with the brake bias

I have the Cup rear proportioning valve as well as the Wilwood bias valve next to me. So the bias should be ok and shouldnt have any of these moments

 

[Jay Payne]

If you have a cup load valve then the willwood is pointless. Our race car has a Tilton valve in it but we never use it. Its set to max all the time as the brakes would never work if we adjusted it at all. With just the cup load valve if you find its still not quite enough of a reduction on its max setting then you can just adjust that. Not cockpit adjustable but takes no time to do

 

[todd100]

I've just used VHT Paint, Worked well enough for me

aah fair play, did you use vht laquer after then?

 

[Nafoff]

that looks very nice....fair play, i badly want to do this now

Your engine is allready tarted up tho isnt it?

i think so, i can't remember...lol the front is totally covered by the airbox anyways....

i checked today as i was working on the car, it appears i am already stealth, but its covered by the airbox anyways....

i will be tidying up around this area though....

cheers for the ideas.... xxx

 

[chrispy.clio]

If you have a cup load valve then the willwood is pointless. Our race car has a Tilton valve in it but we never use it. Its set to max all the time as the brakes would never work if we adjusted it at all. With just the cup load valve if you find its still not quite enough of a reduction on its max setting then you can just adjust that. Not cockpit adjustable but takes no time to do

Oh right ok.

So do you have the cup load valve set to max (so theres basically as little load going to the rear) and then the Tilton Valve set to max on the front? Is this set up enough for you to lock the front wheels if you stamp on the brakes?

The main reason for me to be doing what i am was to remove the ABS unit which as you know weighs a lot. Also my idea was that i could set the bias to be normal in the dry but if it was wet then i could adjust the load to the rear a little. I suppose i'll just have to try it all out when its all done

 

[ventura]

If you ever decide to sell the car let me know as im looking for a track clio for next year!!

 

[chrispy.clio]

If you ever decide to sell the car let me know as im looking for a track clio for next year!!

The car is allways for sale at the right price

But really after 10,000 man hours of blood sweat and tears it would be difficult to let go lol

 

[chrispy.clio]

Right bit of an update.

Been in one of them moods today where it take me f*cking ages to do a simple job. Pretty sure i went outside today at about 12:15 and come inside at about 9:30 tonight. So in that time i really should have done something amazing be it doesnt really feel that good meh!

So as the GT is getting a servicing I put the clio inthe garage and put it on the stands ready with the intentions of quickly dropping the subframe. quickly lol.

So as you can see the subframe is a mess really

I wanted to try remove the steering rack without dropping the subframe at first but after gashing my hands i ended up dropping it.

Here you can see all the PAS pipes that i was wanting to remove.

Had a bit of a fail mid way through when I dropped the Light and the long light bulb smashed and part of it broke into a million tiny little ba*tard sharp bits

Anyway finally got the subframe off. I thought someone said it was only 6 bolts?!!! Was more like 15 or somthing and some of them are right little s*its.

All the PAS pipes i wanted to remove

All gone

Just need to fill the rack with grease and block off the holes and clean it up.


Also too the mani off so i can wrap it.

I know some people say it does fu*k all but I want to do it.

Might spray some bits up tomorrow depends if it snows or not.

 

[Tony Hunter]

We had plenty of days like that,two of us in the workshop for about 14 hrs,stand back and think,fook is that all we''ve done.Keep going,its the only way.

 

[Jonny1*2]

Tell me you haven't removed the starter heat shield to lose a bit more weight have you

nice work mate. Thought you were going to be using the old ph1 manual rack? Didn't realise you can just snip the pipes and put it back. makes sense I suppose.

 

[chrispy.clio]

We had plenty of days like that,two of us in the workshop for about 14 hrs,stand back and think,fook is that all we''ve done.Keep going,its the only way.

I hate those days, need to get out there again today and tidy up a bit so i have room to do stuff, Its nice been in the garage but there's not that much space

Tell me you haven't removed the starter heat shield to lose a bit more weight have you

nice work mate. Thought you were going to be using the old ph1 manual rack? Didn't realise you can just snip the pipes and put it back. makes sense I suppose.

Nope i havnt removed it for weight reduction, but if i wrap the mani then i may not replace it as i've dammaged it a little when i was trying to remove the wiring from the started motor a litle while ago.

After speaking to F0xy and Daz they were telling me that I can just keep the same rack and just block off the wholes after filling it with grease. So thats what i'm gona do

 

[Tony Hunter]

It will make the steering very heavy,you thought about that?

 

[Jonny1*2]

I hate those days, need to get out there again today and tidy up a bit so i have room to do stuff, Its nice been in the garage but there's not that much space




Nope i havnt removed it for weight reduction, but if i wrap the mani then i may not replace it as i've dammaged it a little when i was trying to remove the wiring from the started motor a litle while ago.

After speaking to F0xy and Daz they were telling me that I can just keep the same rack and just block off the wholes after filling it with grease. So thats what i'm gona do

Good point, wrapping will substancially lower the risk to the starter. I've been told that it would be fine anyway, but you just need to cool it before starting again.

It will make the steering very heavy,you thought about that?

Why's that Tony? you not running a manual rack?

 

[chrispy.clio]

It will make the steering very heavy,you thought about that?

Yeah i have been told this be many people, But Daz has done the same in his Cup and he said its fine above 10 - 15 mph.

I'll just have to wait and see really.

 

[Tony Hunter]

I have tried to drive ours with the pas turned off,not nice imo anyway,its the same as disconnecting the servo on servo assisted brakes,not nice.Good luck.

 

[Gray]

I don't think you will like the steering set-up...

not matter how much grease / lube you pack in your still trying to force something to operate in a way it was not designed to

 

[Dave.]

thats gonna be heavy chris, really heavy....

 

[Tony Hunter]

Why's that Tony? you not running a manual rack?

No we have an electric Saxo pump in ours and can switch it on and off.

 

[Nafoff]

sure it was bomber i was having a discussion with on this type of mod, something about speaking to a power steering specialist saying how to get round it...

^^that is totally useless information really...lol

 

[Tony Hunter]

The only way I'd do it would be to put a manual rack in.And yes that is pretty useless.lol.

 

[Silent_Scone]

Don't think it'll be just you it'll be putting strain on either mate

 

[Silent_Scone]

I don't think you will like the steering set-up...

not matter how much grease / lube you pack in your still trying to force something to operate in a way it was not designed to

lol

 

[sideways danny]

The only way I'd do it would be to put a manual rack in.

Thats what i've done on mine.

 

[Gray]

lol

I knew you would like that haha

 

[chrispy.clio]

Well at the end of the day, if i end up finding out that i have girly arms then i'll buy a manual rack and do that.

Its not really the end of the world but I thought i might as well try the sort of free mod and then buy a different rack if i dont like it.

I'm just costing up my new braided hoses. I think i need 7m of the stuff ££££££

 

[Tony Hunter]

OUCH

 

[chrispy.clio]

OUCH

Its not really too bad

50% off FTW

 

[wilky19]

Well at the end of the day, if i end up finding out that i have girly arms then i'll buy a manual rack and do that.

Its not really the end of the world but I thought i might as well try the sort of free mod and then buy a different rack if i dont like it.

I'm just costing up my new braided hoses. I think i need 7m of the stuff ££££££

i drove my mk1 for a few week with a dry rack(no fluid or grease) it wasn't that bad just really heavy when parking/manoeuvring. i got use to how heavy just got to watch it when booting it, steering can get a hand full.

 

[Jay Payne]

I'm just costing up my new braided hoses. I think i need 7m of the stuff ££££££

Roll of copper pipe £10

 

[chrispy.clio]

UPDATE -

As the subframe had been dropped a few days ago i decided I would degrease it and paint it.

Pulled it out of the garage and started to degrease it

Took ages to degrease properly and i eventualy got bored so i have now decided to send a load of bits off to a powdercoaters.

So this is how the subframe looks atm should come back a bit brighter

I removed the wishbones and took them to a local garage for them to crack out the blow torche and remove the old bushes and metal sleves. They did it for free which was nice

So here are my wishbones with no bushes

I bought Powerflex bushes a while ago which were going to be for christmas but had to use them so i can get the wishbones powedercoated

I pushed the sleves in and test fitted it to the subframe

I then placed the bushes in to see how they sitted in. perfectly.

So i'm hopefully going to get the metal sleves tacked/welded inplace tomorrow at work.

Next job was to finish of spraying the ITB's so i can build them back up again

First gave them a rub down to get all the dust and loose grime off

Then I masked both ends and the injector holes

Then set took them outside to spray them

Now they are all sprayed

So just need to build them up and polish the trumpets up


I took an angle grinder to all the little sticking out bolts that are on the bulk head

and then sprayed it up so it looked a bit neater and stoped it rusting

Also sprayed some of the shell as it was black in some places. I didnt get a before pics up it did make a big difference.

Over all it looks much better

I also noticed that the pipe that goes from the ITB's to the Brake servo had a cut in it :S

This pipe

The cut

What does this pipe do and why do you need it?



More soon

 

[Nafoff]

good progress again
makes my work look sh*t slow

 

[Jay Payne]

Brake vacumm pipe for servo assistance. YES you need it. With a hole in it would of been sucking in extra air and messing the AFR up.

Hope it was mapped BEFORE the pipe split or it will need doing again

 

[Tony Hunter]

It makes the servo work.

 

[sideways danny]

That looks like it's been rubbing on something for a long time. Not too hard to make yourself a up a new servo vac line.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Brake vacumm pipe for servo assistance. YES you need it. With a hole in it would of been sucking in extra air and messing the AFR up.

Hope it was mapped BEFORE the pipe split or it will need doing again

Ok thanks,

I think it split after it was mapped.

Could it be down on power because of this hole in the pipe?