ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

TomoTek - 182 Track Build here we come!...



NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
So do those bleed bottles make it a one man job to bleed the brakes? I'm assuming yes?

If that is the case, do us an idiot proof drawing as I've only got an eezibleed and I just find it a faff tbh.
 
The one way is beneficial aswell as having it submerged as it means the same air that is expelled from the pipe can't be sucked straight back in when you come off the pedal...

Also surely without the one way valve youd have to lock the nipple when you come of the pedal as otherwise your just pumping it out then when you come off the pedal it will just draw the fluid back in mean theres no progress in the fluid? Am i otherthinking or is that the case?



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
The one way is beneficial aswell as having it submerged as it means the same air that is expelled from the pipe can't be sucked straight back in when you come off the pedal...

Also surely without the one way valve youd have to lock the nipple when you come of the pedal as otherwise your just pumping it out then when you come off the pedal it will just draw the fluid back in mean theres no progress in the fluid? Am i otherthinking or is that the case?



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Sounds like you're thinking the same way I am tbh.
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
So do those bleed bottles make it a one man job to bleed the brakes? I'm assuming yes?

If that is the case, do us an idiot proof drawing as I've only got an eezibleed and I just find it a faff tbh.

No still need two people, I'd never bleed brakes on my own.. I just lock the nipple off after every pump. Least you can see if any air is still coming out if your actually down by the caliper

Don't get me wrong If you want to be able to do it on your own then yeah a one way valve is the way to go.. just added cost to the bottles for me when I wouldn't benefit from it
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
No still need two people, I'd never bleed brakes on my own.. I just lock the nipple off after every pump. Least you can see if any air is still coming out if your actually down by the caliper

Don't get me wrong If you want to be able to do it on your own then yeah a one way valve is the way to go.. just added cost to the bottles for me when I wouldn't benefit from it
Ah right ok, well that makes it all become much clearer! You're just bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way. :up:
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
Ah right ok, well that makes it all become much clearer! You're just bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way. :up:

Haha yeah.. stuck in my ways.. I like to see the fluid coming out.

@Mash. You could use those 'speed bleeder' nipples too with a built in on way valve if you wanted

We had a mega design at Merc GP.. you just plugged in the reservoir and all the caliper 'nipples' (they use small dry breaks on the calipers to prevent leaks) to a pump and the fluid is circulated around the system under high pressure to get every last bit of air out. That was a one man job lol

Very similar concept to the eezibleed kit but a lot easier to use.
 
Haha yeah.. stuck in my ways.. I like to see the fluid coming out.

@Mash. You could use those 'speed bleeder' nipples too with a built in on way valve if you wanted

We had a mega design at Merc GP.. you just plugged in the reservoir and all the caliper 'nipples' (they use small dry breaks on the calipers to prevent leaks) to a pump and the fluid is circulated around the system under high pressure to get every last bit of air out. That was a one man job lol

Very similar concept to the eezibleed kit but a lot easier to use.
Yep, but the price of £40 per nipple puts me right off haha times that by 8 :O

Mega!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
#44

Next up was glazing the car. A big milestone in the cars build!

I had previously bought a heated windscreen from Ricky Evans Motorsport last year so checked that that all fit OK. We will see how we get on with it. @Tony Hunter had mentioned the amount of screens he goes through during racing due to stone chips and cracks you can get from bumper to bumper racing. If we end up in the same situation we may revert back to a cheaper front screen and demist via other means.

Fits great.
36163273490_29a669d9c6_c.jpg


In the never ending quest to save weight we order a complete set of Poly windows from Plastics 4 Performance. I had dealt with them before as they supplied windows for a few projects I worked on at McLaren GT. Paul the MD there is really nice and extremely helpful. I ordered the following:

RENAULT - Clio Mk2 Pro - Polycarbonate window kit
- 5 Piece Thermo formed Lexan Polycarbonate (with black borders)
- 4mm Clear
- 1 Clubman Slider Kit (with detents to prevent the slider moving under accel and braking)
- x2 Sikaflex 291i Adhesive
- Basic Car kit (installation Polish, General cleaning polish)

The thermoformed panels really do fit great, worth the extra money IMO!!

As I alluded to in a previous post (reason why I didn't remove the rear boot inner skin) I'm not fitting the rear screen until we get a fiberglass boot lid. It just worked out cheaper in the long run to buy the complete kit with it in.

36513703136_2684ac273f_c.jpg

35725037044_db93d23c3b_c.jpg

35725037604_4ff36afcef_c.jpg


I started off by prepping from the rear windows. I had cleaned up and painted the rear pinch welds. These can get scratched from the glass removal process.

Due to the variable offset in depth around the leading edge of the window next to the doors I bonded on multiple spacers to set the depth of the window before bonding (makes fitting a lot easier) . I used some M4 rivnuts that worked out nicely. A small amount of silicone was used to bond them to the pinchwelds in equal spacings. I also prepped some strips of masking tapes to secure the window during bonding.

35725037514_2f8221e4bc_c.jpg

36163273470_7a49aab245_c.jpg


I gave the window a thorough clean around the inner border (don't use and solvent based cleaners as these can ruin the windows, I just used some soapy water)

36163273690_b359896f28_c.jpg


I applied a continuous strip of silicone around the pinch weld about 15mm deep (using a caulking gun) I made sure I went fully around each spacer, to ensure a good seal.

36421877041_651ddb7a5d_c.jpg


I then went inside the car and using a wet finger smoothed out the silicone. This was again repeated on the outside to give a nice finish. (extra silicone may be required to fill the void to the quarter panel to get a smooth exterior finish)

35725036974_f4f59ac0b7_c.jpg


With the rear windows curing I turned my attention to the front windows. I wasn't sure initially how I was going to secure these to the doors as there isn't much info on here about how others have done it.

I fitted the original seals back into the doors and pushed the drivers side window in the seals to see what I was working with.
The windows fit really snuggly into the seals so I only really need to secure the lower edge of the windows to prevent them from dropping.

36421877311_4f2ac1b170_c.jpg


I ended up using a similar technique that a friend used on his Saxo. I drilled holes in the inner door skin where the lower inner seal locates. 4 equi-spaced along the length of the door. Into which I installed M6 Rivnuts.

35725037834_e132e31488_c.jpg

36391692962_3736c523b9_c.jpg


I then re installed the poly window and drilled through it using the front and rear rivnuts as a guide. I left the two middle holes un drilled. I fitted an M6 bolt into the front and rear rivnuts that self tapped into the window pilot holes I'd just made. These will hold the window up and push the window out onto the outer window seal. I then fitted another couple of M6 bolts (length determined by inner to outer door skin gap) into the middle two rivnuts, which I wound up against the window, again to ensure a really good seal to prevent water ingress into the doors.

35725038084_458e035342_c.jpg

36163273920_f1437c8e60_c.jpg


I then marked up and drilled clearance holes through the inner window seal for the heads of the bolts.

35725038324_48ed76192a_c.jpg

36421877271_6ee09f0c92_c.jpg


Inner seals fitted up.

36163274160_6e88101980_c.jpg


I then fitted the drivers side widow slider, which finished off the fitment of the front windows.

36421877461_c574eb782f_c.jpg


The final job was to fit the windscreen. I'd been nervous about doing this myself, I had thought about getting an Autoglass guy in to do it. But it was pretty easy actually.

One of my good friends Chris, who's an engine builder at Mercedes HPP came round to give me a hand installing it. (He has a pretty Nippy Saxo too)

2017-06-28-PHOTO-00000119.jpg


As the screen is heated, it has two pieces of glass with the heating element sandwiched between them. To make sure the element is protected you have to seal the circumference of the screen with silicone. (water ingress can make the element short out/corrode and reduce its life)

Once this was done we set about priming the screen from bonding onto the car.

I had bought a bonding kit off ebay:

Dinitrol 500 Fitting Kit - It came with:

- Dinitrol 500 Adhesive x2 (only needed one)
- PUR 520 30ml Glass Pre Cleaner
- PUR 530 30ml Black Primer (for both body and glass)
- Felt buds for application

36163273030_73efc4bfe3_c.jpg


The first step was to use the glass cleaner to remove all contaminants from the windscreen around where the primer was to be applied. (really strong solvent). You only need to apply this around the edges on the inside.

I then applied a strip of the black primer to the inside glass surface where the silicone would go. This is very important as it forms a surface for the silicone to adhere too. The silicone does't adhere very well to the glass, hence why the primer is applied. (This primer has so much curing additive in it, caught a sniff off it and it knocked me for 6!, drys in about 5 minutes though!) . I then ensured the pinch welds were again primed and free from bare metal.

The front lower windscreen setters were then re installed (look like a little black comb) that clips to the metal edge by the scuttle . A constant bead of the silicone was applied to the pinch welds, again about ~15-20mm in depth. The tube comes with a really good 'V' cut nozzle for this application.

Chris and I then got the windscreen suckers fitted and gently set the windscreen on the setters at the bottom, then pressed the top surface down onto the silicone. Pressing the windscreen down onto the silicone so that the windscreen is flush with the surrounding body panels.

Then again this was held in place with some masking tape while it cured.

36163273230_6272140e2f_c.jpg

36513702736_49e4aacb08_c.jpg


Windscreen upper and side edge trimming installed, Protective film removed and poly windows sealed.. Job Done!!

36163273180_06155cc944_c.jpg
 
Last edited:

massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
You are very welcome to fit the windows to my car! Excellent job, love the attention to detail. It's nice seeing someone going to the trouble of fitting them really neatly, especially the rear side windows. I hate to see them just held in place with rivets and the like.
 
  CLIO 182
You are very welcome to fit the windows to my car! Excellent job, love the attention to detail. It's nice seeing someone going to the trouble of fitting them really neatly, especially the rear side windows. I hate to see them just held in place with rivets and the like.

Or a million bolts haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
You are very welcome to fit the windows to my car! Excellent job, love the attention to detail. It's nice seeing someone going to the trouble of fitting them really neatly, especially the rear side windows. I hate to see them just held in place with rivets and the like.

Haha, cheers! I'll pop over any time mate [emoji6]!!.. yeah I agree, I'm not a fan of the rivet/bolted look, It always distorts the windows causing that weird rippling effect. Either that or you end up cracking them.
 

massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
Haha, cheers! I'll pop over any time mate [emoji6]!!.. yeah I agree, I'm not a fan of the rivet/bolted look, It always distorts the windows causing that weird rippling effect. Either that or you end up cracking them.

Definitely. The rear screen in my Escort is like that and it really bugs me! When it comes to my Clio, you're hired!
 

RuskiWeldFab

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172, RS4 B7
I bow down to you sir! I like to think I am good at things but you some different level :) keep them coming !! Maybe it's time for me to start my own tread... In one of the pictures, I see you have your loom out of the car. Are you modifying it? Would like to know more! That's one of the jobs I don't even know where to begin. Feel like it's one of my next jobs...
0a41f5bfad098ad1e9739c7126b18fed.jpg
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
I bow down to you sir! I like to think I am good at things but you some different level :) keep them coming !! Maybe it's time for me to start my own tread... In one of the pictures, I see you have your loom out of the car. Are you modifying it? Would like to know more! That's one of the jobs I don't even know where to begin. Feel like it's one of my next jobs...

Haha no bowing down needed mate!, I've seen some of your handy work too!, that little workshop and garage look ace!.. had a quick look at your first post, was mega.

I wondered if anyone would notice.. Yeah I've completely modified it, re routed it, heat shrinked it and labelled everything.. it's one of my next posts to do.. stripped out all the no essential stuff and added in my own switch panel and wired in all the extra stuff like the heated screen, extinguisher, intercom etc
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
#45

I had some more small odd jobs to tick off the list so decided to do those before getting stuck fully into the wiring.

Bought a nice TRS wheel cover, so fitted that to the wheel. Keep it nice and clean while in the garage
35808948614_ae47e2ef7d_c.jpg


Gave the scuttle panels some well overdue TLC. they were looking very grey indeed. I used my go to Auto Finesse Revive. works a treat to restore plastic trim.

36505633101_b069839be6_c.jpg


I was under the floor looking at the starter motor solenoid wiring when I spotted a nice bit hole in the De-cat pipe... This reminded me i needed to order a Lambda bung!!

35808948314_c48348d681_c.jpg

36247399410_756c0b15cd_c.jpg


I then decided to fit a silicone vacuum hose for the brake servo, re routing it over the engine away from the exhaust etc. I got this again from ASH - Auto Silicone Hoses

36505633011_359d6f888f_c.jpg
35834614803_b59df66c91_c.jpg

35834615023_c90a876c80_c.jpg


While I was fitting that i fitted the engine breather hoses and filter. This was fitted with a 90deg fitting and a short vertical hose to ensure the filter didn't get clogged with oil and could breathe effectively.

36247400380_bb05a20b94_c.jpg


I then un wrapped some carbon foot plates i'd bought to finish off the cockpit. The passenger one we decided to get to protect the electronics and extinguisher when we have passengers. The drivers one comes with a really handy clutch foot rest!

36247399700_b0a59a281e_c.jpg


Quick look to see how it fits. Loads of room to the pedals (angle pic taken makes it looks close to clutch, but its not)

35808948484_d2414856fc_c.jpg

36505633551_a0c78c39e4_c.jpg

36597045186_6d3c5e290c_c.jpg


Just need to drill and mount them, waiting on some csk aluminium washers and stainless bolts to enable that.

Next up I stuck on some vinyl in the number plate recess and added a strip below the bumper grille. I like how it separates the grille from the bumper.
36247399290_ac30becfa8_c.jpg


Most important job, fit the name stickers haha!

35834614973_f13d4119a1_c.jpg


I then decided to look at different styles of sun strip.

either level from front on (curved vinyl edge)
36247399930_2ce6940cc3_c.jpg


Or a curved front view, higher in center (which uses a straight vinyl edge)
36505633611_f0221c53ef_c.jpg


I preferred the more normal curved look, so set about mocking up the height. I kept going back in and out the car to check how low I could have it, and still keep good visibility.

36247400150_59d5d310d8_c.jpg


I then started to stick it on, trying to ensure no air bubbles got under it.
36505633481_a70ab8c2c2_c.jpg


Job done!...

36247399600_d7e00a0cf8_c.jpg


View from inside (all be it with bonnet half up on this pic)

36597044996_c4d33116bf_c.jpg


With these little jobs done I then turned my attention fully to the wiring loom mods..

Watch this space..
 
  Golf R and a 172 Cup
This is a great thread and full of brilliant ideas and solutions! Really looking forward to seeing what you've done with the loom! :up:
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
How comes you've bunged up the lambda sensor on the de-cat ?

Hi, normally you run the two lambda sensors, pre and post Cat.. the lambda in the manifold is the main one used to adjust the fueling and the post cat lambda is just there to monitor the efficiency of the cat itself (puts the emissions light on if cat is faulty).. As we're running a de-cat we don't require that sensor... (so can remove the sensor and all the extra wiring)

Most companies who make these pipes put a boss in the de-cat for somewhere to keep the post lambda so the light doesn't come on the dash
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
Hi, normally you run the two lambda sensors, pre and post Cat.. the lambda in the manifold is the main one used to adjust the fueling and the post cat lambda is just there to monitor the efficiency of the cat itself (puts the emissions light on if cat is faulty).. As we're running a de-cat we don't require that sensor... (so can remove the sensor and all the extra wiring)

Most companies who make these pipes put a boss in the de-cat for somewhere to keep the post lambda so the light doesn't come on the dash
I thought you had to run a cat in most series now if the car was builder after '92 or whatever the year was?
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
I thought you had to run a cat in most series now if the car was builder after '92 or whatever the year was?

Hey, Yeah I think the blue book says you have to, never seen one fitted on any of the cars I've seen that run in the TDC though. We can always fit one if we need too, but we still wouldn't run the 2nd lambda sensor
 

bashracing

ClioSport Club Member
18th edition '' in service emissions standards '' require all vehicles registered after Aug 92 to run an advanced emission control system ( cat ) if the vehicle was in the european whole vehicle type approval scheme, if they are to used on the road.
imported vehicle form outside the eu don't require a cat until 1996 off the top of my head,
msa require all vehicles manufactured after 31st dec '99 to have a cat fitted.

or maybe I just made all that up, I don't know, I'm still half asleep.
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
I've murdered 7 people but haven't told anyone or been asked if I have, so it's all ok

We've never had a cat on any of our cars racing in the TDT, CSCC Tin Tops or the 750mc Roadsports. Never even been discussed.

This is what I thought.. let's delete all comments and never discuss again hahaha! (Ps I don't want to be added to your hit list @bashracing )
 

Jamie86

ClioSport Club Member
  RS175,595,205gti,172
This is what I thought.. let's delete all comments and never discuss again hahaha! (Ps I don't want to be added to your hit list @bashracing )
But it doesnt state where you have to run the cat on the car.. Like the one you have inside of the back box ;)
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
I have been on CS a fair while but time I have to visit the site has massively changed. I saw a link to this thread from facebook and have spent the past several days reading it in stages.

I think someone else has summed up how I feel - jealous, but in a good way. The quality and attention to detail is awesome (as many have said). I have been building my car for way to long, due to money, life changes (moving house, totally relocating and moving jobs) - it is good to see people in similar situations pushing through and building absolutely beautiful projects. Even though I started way before you I am now way behind you and only just about at the fabrication stage but thanks to your thread there is a lot more consideration I now think I should do. I best follow the thread for reference.

I look forward to seeing how this develops further.
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
I have been on CS a fair while but time I have to visit the site has massively changed. I saw a link to this thread from facebook and have spent the past several days reading it in stages.

I think someone else has summed up how I feel - jealous, but in a good way. The quality and attention to detail is awesome (as many have said). I have been building my car for way to long, due to money, life changes (moving house, totally relocating and moving jobs) - it is good to see people in similar situations pushing through and building absolutely beautiful projects. Even though I started way before you I am now way behind you and only just about at the fabrication stage but thanks to your thread there is a lot more consideration I now think I should do. I best follow the thread for reference.

I look forward to seeing how this develops further.

Hi mate.. Thats cool, interested to know where you saw the link on facebook.. Thanks for taking the time to read it, and for your kind words.
I definitely took inspiration from everyone elses threads through the years to try to keep up the enthusiasm myself!. It got tough at times, especially during the fabricating stage as it just seemed to go on forever with no end in sight. It all came together pretty quickly after that though.
 


Top