Search results

Unplug coil pack wire is the easiest and you wont loose radio code

Roof lining looks excellent. Nice work!

Awesome car. Would be good to see it, might bump into you next track day season at Croft.

Spring Rate (Road)50nm / 30 nm , 285 lb / 171 lb Spring Rate (Track)80nm / 90 nm , 456lb / 513 lb Spring Rate (Race)110nm / 120 nm , 627lb / 684 lb

Last set of ds2500s I had in did 14k and 4 trackdays. As said you need to file them down till they have around about 1mm clearance each side to allow for heat expansion, as a rough guide till the two lips are filled flat with center on pad sides.

They don't last long at all, bad in wet as said. Hankooks are a better alternative

Interested to see what comes of 2 drivers sharing before I put my name down, dad has recently had a bad road racing accident so is looking for a safer alternative!

This is interesting! There is a need of a series such as this! What has been said regarding regulations seems reasonable to me although I think the following should be considered. Cars should be scrutineered by a forum member as said previously. All mk2 clio parts should be interchangeable...

Chip what generally causes the centre mains to spin? Crank flex?

Re: Something squeaking when clutch pressed in As rob said if its the release bearing the noise should be constant while engine running! If its diaphragm only as peddle getting pressed down

Re: Something squeaking when clutch pressed in It will be the clutch diagram making the noise I bet, most of them do it. I recently fitted a clutch kit and 2k miles its creaking just as it was with the old diaphragm. If it only squeaks when engine is running it will be the release bearing.

Has been at Elvington over previous years

Has anyone got a F4R or a F4P block handy and could give me the bore spacing measurement? (Bore centre to bore centre). If anyone knows this already, it would be much appreciated!

A

Awesome, should have the car rebuilt just in time for this!

Book setting is actually 12 mins toe out. I would get it set at that again, I have tryed more but has resulted in wearing out the inside edge of my tyres.

54mm

I stand corrected. Ph1 172 089 ph2 172 129 182 130

what gearbox have you got in yours? ph1's have wider spec'd ratios and a higher final drive than ph2 172's and 182's

Looks to have progressed alot since last time I seen it at the OK Diner meet (I was the lad in the BG 182 with buckets, harness' OMP wheel etc). Got any more track days planned?

This is the same way I am going about raising the roll center! I cant see the need for extended drive shafts unless your changing the location of the ball joint to a position further out though.

No this is something i am doing independently. I have manual calculations of roll center positioning. I am aiming for a roll center position of ground level, this is a fair amount higher than a lowered Clio; yet wont cause any jacking effect or excessive lateral load on the tyres. It will help...

My car suffered from understeer as standard, the mods I have done to pretty much eliminate this are: Pure Motorsport toe shims ( half a degree shim toe out on each side) Around 30 mins toe out and 2.5 deg negative camber on front Suspension (you may need stiffer rear springs) I am developing...

Thought they would just fit in place of the standard diff, how is the quaiffe secured Chip?

Collar of the ring doesn't sit flush to the casing with mine (8 bolt GT performance version) unless the circlip is removed. I noticed with the thrust washer removed that the diff is the same size as the hole in the casing, so no need to worry about drilling into the diff.

To answer your question, yes the gearbox casing needs to be drilled and tapped to fit the ring, it replaces the circlip completely.

I'v got one of these rings to fit, is the diff no bigger than the hole in the casing as I don't want to end up drilling through the casing into it.

Wow, awesome work!

Awesome!

Yup i'm sure this is correct