Another Clio 172 Cup track/race build.

[MG cup]

Not much to update today, got some tabs welded to cage to secure dash and finalised and fitted seat.

Seats are so tight I spent all night pi**ing about, had to make an indent in the exhaust tunnel.

Corbeau XL revenge's are not meant to be fitted in a clio, total nightmare. I had to compromise on the final seating position.


Anyone who has done the gear selector mod, how much distance can you get the stick to come back??? I need a good bit otherwise it's cut out the selector and shift the whole lot back.

 

[MG cup]

Few more from today, got some harness bars in which I totally forgot about.

Had my mate make up a steering extension at work today so I could finalise seating position.

Seating position all set, loving it (A la touring car...steering wheel up in your face)

Also drilled and swaged my door gussets trimmed and welded and that's a days work lol.

I dont pity cage installers, hoor of a work.

 

[Cupman29]

Looking really good! Love the seating position.

Do you feel the gearstick will be too far from the wheel?

 

[MG cup]

It's hard to tell just now untill I get the linkage attached to the box, I have a yanoo fast road shifter that's about 40mm longer than standard and shortens the throw plus I can shorten the linkage to bring the stick towards me. Hoping that's enough, will know when the engine is in.

I was hoping for a seating position similar to big ash's car but its just not possible with my cage/seat design, it's big enough for my lanky 6'2" frame but not ideal.

 

[Kenny.s]

Coming along nicely mate.

I have a similar shaped dent in the side of the tunnel on my car

On the cage tie ins for the rear beam, i'm sure you've realised the angle those tubes are at is relying almost solely on the strength of the tubes? ie you cant really get any triangulation on them.
I thought about trying to do something similar on my car but decided the extra weight vs benefit wasn't worth it, be difficult to measure or otherwise know if it's helping to stiffen the back of the car up but I guess it cant do any harm.

 

[Cupman29]

It's hard to tell just now untill I get the linkage attached to the box, I have a yanoo fast road shifter that's about 40mm longer than standard and shortens the throw plus I can shorten the linkage to bring the stick towards me. Hoping that's enough, will know when the engine is in.

I was hoping for a seating position similar to big ash's car but its just not possible with my cage/seat design, it's big enough for my lanky 6'2" frame but not ideal.

I'll be keeping an eye on how you get on with this as I need to bring my stick back a bit as I am a similar size and have a 50mm extension to my wheel and felt the reach from the wheel was slightly too much.

 

[MG cup]

Coming along nicely mate.

I have a similar shaped dent in the side of the tunnel on my car

On the cage tie ins for the rear beam, i'm sure you've realised the angle those tubes are at is relying almost solely on the strength of the tubes? ie you cant really get any triangulation on them.
I thought about trying to do something similar on my car but decided the extra weight vs benefit wasn't worth it, be difficult to measure or otherwise know if it's helping to stiffen the back of the car up but I guess it cant do any harm.

Yeah my seats are far too big for a little Clio, I should have really brought the main hoop on the cage back in heindsight, not the designed way of the cage but then I have went and totaly re-built the rear setup so wouldn't have been too much a problem.


Yeah I do realise is not the best possible design to secure the axle pickups but without having a spiders web in the back of the car, my solution was the best for weight and strength I came up with to tie in the axle while also tying in the main hoop to the rear 'X'. I got a decent angle on the pieces coming from axle pick up to rear cross so it will also provide a good amount of protection for a side knock which is why I done it to start with. The strengthened axle was a worry it would tweak the shell if it took a hit but I think it will just bend axle mounts or slightly more inboard on the axle, the pice that holds the torsion bar, seems the weak link with PMS axle kit.

 

[MG cup]

I'll be keeping an eye on how you get on with this as I need to bring my stick back a bit as I am a similar size and have a 50mm extension to my wheel and felt the reach from the wheel was slightly too much.

My extension piece is 100mm but I'm unsure how much that means after the difference between depth of standard wheel and sabelt wheel with quick release.

Do you know about the "gear selector mod" you can bring the stick back some without dissecting the exhaust tunnel and moving the mount back. I'm unsure of how much is possible, ill just see when the engines back in. You can only get 25-35mm iirc moving the whole selector back as theres a strengthener that means you move it a little or a lot like Ash's car, his looks to have been fitted rear words of this strengthener.

 

[MG cup]

Waited in for the courier to come with some parts today and sods law he turns up at 6, that's another day wasted.Anyway this turned up which was worth the wait. Im glad IcemanUK found these as nobody seems to make an alloy raditor for the clio other than custom which is ££'s, few brackets needed but pretty much plug n play.

These also turned up along with more aerocatches for the fiberglass boot and another set for the bumper, brake pipe to plumb up my back axle and loads of other sundries to complete everything. My list of needed bits gets bigger the closer I get to completion, the amount of small pieces you overlook or I did anyway while doing a build is crazy. Just waiting on mikalor clamps for hoses now for the engine.

So that's everything I can think of that I need to get the engine freshened up fitted an vitals plumbed in.Ordered some inner track rods as well, as their showing sign's of wear and I cant be as**d doing them with the engine in.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Where was rad from again, sorry, can't be arsed to look through Marks thread for it. And £ ?

 

[MG cup]

No worries, its a golf mk3 8v/16v rad from eBay. Comes in a direnza.co.uk box but it didn't bring up anything on google, I searched to see if you could get for cheaper. It was £174.99 delivered, quite reasonable I thought considering the price from renault.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Foooooo...., my heart just missed a beat. Thanks.

 

[MG cup]

Did I hear your purse screech there?

 

[Tony Hunter]

Er.....Yes.LOL

 

[MG cup]

Haha it is expensive against the polo rad that's sure but against o.e.m its reasonable, if its gets buckled, im going the polo route.

What fan do you use, any good or bad to stay away from that you have used/experienced?

 

[Tony Hunter]

Can't remember now, it was 3yrs ago. ebay I think, the biggest one that would fit onto the rad. Jay might remember.

 

[neil a]

Ive put a 14" fan on my radiator,I got away with tilting the standard rad forward at the top but will probably upgrade to an alloy one at somepoint.
That cam locking tool should be with you tomorrow.

 

[Cupman29]

Nice goodies again!

It's a 14" fan I've got too. Just fitted it and never used it in anger so can't say if it's upmto the job or not yet.

I'll get the flywheel out on Thursday if that ok?

 

[MG cup]

Ive put a 14" fan on my radiator,I got away with tilting the standard rad forward at the top but will probably upgrade to an alloy one at somepoint.
That cam locking tool should be with you tomorrow.

Cheers Neil, I forgot to ask if you had sent it but thats perfect. Will try be as quick as pos.

I got a polo rad with my ITB's, it ain't in the best condition but your welcome to it?

 

[MG cup]

Ive put a 14" fan on my radiator

It's a 14" fan I've got too

12" is the total height of the radiator so im thinking twin 10's to get coverage.

Yeah when ever you can manage with the flywheel mate, sooner the better as it still needs machining!

 

[MG cup]

Had a bit of a disaster tonight, 2 welds from finishing the cage I lifted my hood and the dash was on fire...F**K... A towel I was using to protect dash had caught fire and melted the dash a bit.

If anyone is selling or no's anyone selling a mk2 lower dash then let me know.

Silver lining to that c**k up is the cage is finished .....Rub down and prime that tomorrow.


Made a little start on the engine as well, started to port the inlets on the head as its a particularly bad casting I have. I will get the manifold matched to head, ITB's matched to manifold and open out the ITB's mouth's for the 48mm trumpets.

 

[BIGASH]

This is looking great Top work mate!

Whoops with the fire lol! I only threw out my lower dash the other week other wise you could of had it

 

[MG cup]

Cheers James, sods law..... im not kidding when I say it was the 2nd last weld to be done...BA***RD.

That's a pity, im sure I will get one, I plan to remove it at some point when I get dash2 etc but it just makes for an easier build just now. I might even run it with small amount of melting but it will annoy me!!

 

[BIGASH]

Yes just typical !

I was going to say if I were you I would just bin it off! There is a fair bit of weight in the metal frame and the lower dash. You'd just need a few tabs on the cage and job done

 

[MG cup]

Yeah I see where your coming from, but id like to keep the dash bar to earth out all the interior switches/wiring etc just now, I would need to rewire the inside which Is a plan I have for later.

Just fitted tabs to secure lower dash some more as well but I better fit the tabs for the top before I paint it as its on the long list for one winter. Do you just secure yours with the 3 or 4 srews along the bulkhead beside windsreen and I guess a couple of tabs at the sides??

 

[BIGASH]

Ahh sorry I didn't realise it had that function!

Yes best to get sorted before paint Haha I looked the other day and mine is secured with one bolt under the binnacle section lol! It just held in by where its a tight fit round the cage it seems! Think i'll be swapping the dash over winter anyway as it doesn't fit in with my plans so will fix it properly then

 

[MG cup]

Not much progress today although I got a hold of a lower dash to resolve my little fire, mikalor clamps came with twin 10" fans, ECU was sent away for a health check FOC, thanks omex. Inner track rods, cam stud/nut, gearbox stud. Need my flywheel lightened/balanced, thermostat housing & strainer plate welded and im ready to install.

Has anyone removed the power steering on a cup with standard pulleys, how did they route the belt?? It looks possible by removing pump and routing belt different but can't be sure. Will I need a Pure delete kit??

 

[Kenny.s]

Why do you want to remove the power steering? Granted it may save a few kgs but I would sooner chop weight out else where than delete the PAS, you will be thankfull for it the first time you have a big moment and you need to pile on full lock.

 

[Tony Hunter]

Go electric

 

[MG cup]

Why do you want to remove the power steering? Granted it may save a few kgs but I would sooner chop weight out else where than delete the PAS, you will be thankfull for it the first time you have a big moment and you need to pile on full lock.

I like the weighty feel of non power steered cars, more feedback IMO, im not exactly built like the gable end of a fiver either so I should be alright. I know what your saying tho, one handed ohh f**k moments might be a bit more work plus my pipework was burst, pump tired and I have already modified rack to suit lol

Bonus of doing so is I would like to get the pipework tank etc out the way and reduce the need for splitting pipework when removing engine etc also you get more power win win.

Go electric

I plan on doing so one winter, it makes everything simpler and supports my reasons above.

 

[Kenny.s]

I'm not built like the gable end of a fiver but i'm certainly not a heavy weight either, for all the difference it makes in weight it's a no brainer for me, I've got the wheel on my car as close to me as I'm comfortable with.
If you need to pull an engine you can unbolt the pump and leave the pipes on. When you're not turning the steering on a hydraulic system it doesn't use that much power, it's simple and proven. The electric set ups I've tried and heard about normally result in a more inert/numb feeling than hydraulic ones, unless your spending big money on puka motorsport designed systems.

 

[MG cup]

Yeah I know what your saying, In a straight line there will be little draw from the engine, that wasn't really my thinking or the little weight saving. The first reason I removed mine was my system needed a complete overhaul, new pump, pipes (there not cheap) and secondly just for simplicity and more reliable.

The saxo or corsa pump is something I might look into if im not happy, the corsa B system has quite a good feel having had a old corsa, cant coment on the saxo or similar. Not sure what it would be like with Clio rack mind you, steering feel could be adjusted by throttling inlets if needed.

Fitting electric leaves you in a similar situation, not that it bothers me but also has a drain on the engine through the alternator.

 

[len_beach]

I've just removed my phase 2 lower dash today if you still need one?

 

[MG cup]

Ordered one today or else I would have taken it mate!!

 

[Tony Hunter]

The electric set ups I've tried and heard about normally result in a more inert/numb feeling than hydraulic ones, unless your spending big money on puka motorsport designed systems.

Oh really??

Also, I think you are both getting a little carried away with all this, 'lack of power'.

Turn a corner and the car will stall, I don't think so.

 

[Kenny.s]

Yeah I know what your saying, In a straight line there will be little draw from the engine, that wasn't really my thinking or the little weight saving. The first reason I removed mine was my system needed a complete overhaul, new pump, pipes (there not cheap) and secondly just for simplicity and more reliable.

The saxo or corsa pump is something I might look into if im not happy, the corsa B system has quite a good feel having had a old corsa, cant coment on the saxo or similar. Not sure what it would be like with Clio rack mind you, steering feel could be adjusted by throttling inlets if needed.

Fitting electric leaves you in a similar situation, not that it bothers me but also has a drain on the engine through the alternator.

The pumps are easy and relatively cheap to get hold of, I've ended up with 3. The renault pipes may be expensive but why do you need to use them? There are plenty options available to have someone make you new ones to what ever length you want, I had hoses made for a previous project and they weren't expensive, made using proper power steering rated hose and fittings.
You sound like you've made up your mind though, I know plenty folk have used what your proposing so i'm sure it'll be fine.

Oh really??

Also, I think you are both getting a little carried away with all this, 'lack of power'.

Turn a corner and the car will stall, I don't think so.

As I said, "in my experience" I wasn't trying to suggest that was fact or that it applies to every electric power steering system in existance.
A case in point though, Civic EP3 Type R, uk car gets electric, JDM version gets hydraulic.

I'm not getting in the least bit carried away, where did I suggest the car would stall as a result of power steering?


Anyway, i'll leave it at that, each to their own, I just know that I'm keeping mechanical PAS.

 

[Tony Hunter]

I was being pedantic, don't take it all so seriously.

 

[MG cup]

No offence taken im stubborn headed anyway so if I think its a good idea then that's that for me.

 

[Andrewclio]

I've bought a cup racer power steering pump with pipes. Direct fit, ask martijn if he can get you one?

 

[MG cup]

Could be an idea.