Ive had loads of trouble with what appeared to be decent secondhand ones based on inspection and testing before fitting being rubbish when actually put under load on the car too mate, so I feel your pain! In fact I fitted a replacement one last weekend for exactly that reason on our 182.
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Ive had loads of trouble with what appeared to be decent secondhand ones based on inspection and testing before fitting being rubbish when actually put under load on the car too mate, so I feel your pain! In fact I fitted a replacement one last weekend for exactly that reason on our 182.
No he is saying go EPAS column and motor etc, but dont bother changing the actual rack itself.
not really no as there is nothing to resist it, its commonly done on lots of cars TBH
All of the fluid was drained prior to looping. The pinion is still lubricated with grease on the power rack so the lack of power steering fluid in there shouldn't cause any issues.
It's a lot lighter and has a direct mount to the subframe which is 1) much easier to fit and 2) eliminates the possibility of the rack moving as there are no longer rubber bushes to perish.
Cheaper and you managed to kill 2 so probably best to stick with standard rack
More likely he bought two that were old and worn out, I dont believe they are any weaker than the standard rack so no more likely to be killed.
GrahamS
ClioSport Club Member
335d
That's of course up to you but I never had a problem with mine. The steering rack bolts and far easier to access on the EPAS set up with the subframe in the car.
I believe some DCI's do have this problem with notchy racks but the one I bought was brand new ex stock. Smooth as and took some punishment around brands and the ring.
Experiences with second hand DCIs though is that the rack can feel a little worn. Gaiters split and allow grit in
I believe some DCI's do have this problem with notchy racks but the one I bought was brand new ex stock. Smooth as and took some punishment around brands and the ring.
Experiences with second hand DCIs though is that the rack can feel a little worn. Gaiters split and allow grit in
Considering all comments then maybe the advice should be - If you are going to fit a brand new DCi rack then great, crack on and you will get all of the advantages (cheaper, lighter, easier to fit, better mounting), but if you can't source a new DCi rack or don't want to pay for one then the standard power rack looped is a good alternative albeit lacking some of the advantages of the DCi rack.
Lots of the standard racks have play in them, if your doesnt then consider looping it, but if it does you may as well swap to a dci as swap to another unknown condition 172 one anyway.
Are there not any solid bushes/mounts that can be used on the standard power steering rack?
Not that I am aware of personally.
Although powerflex do uprated ones, and I think NOOS on here did some too that were stiffer than standard
£240 which includes a £90 refundable surcharge if you have another rack to return to them.
TBH 150 isnt terrible if that comes with the track rods and ends in it? They are nearly half that anyway
Yeah suppose
Balache if putting another hydraulic back on but quite easy if you cut the pipes rather than mess about undoing them!
EPAS one goes in and out really easy. Could happily change it on lunch break at a trackday.
So only cut the hoses if you 100% sure lol
Yeah, when I EPAS'ed our 182 I didnt need to drop the subframe like I would if changing a normal power rack like we did on our 172.
Agreed, especially as on a lot of these cars the captive nuts have rotten!
That's what I was thinking exactly
CRX,205,Type S,172..
just to say my opinion
after a year of driving with epas (first custom electrics, later an ebay box) i took it off... the playstation feeling was killing me, but i learned to live with it... the worst part was the epas couldnt cope with the sudden changes of direction, and the steering wheel would become much harder to turn right away... my setup didnt help either (3 deg of castor , low right height, r888 ect) ... i ended up puting an astra g ehpas pump, and i'm more than satisfied... the "oil" feeling on the steering wheel is great, the wheel isnt to hard, and isnt too light...just the way as it should be...so i would recomend it to everyone...the pump is rather easy to fit...
after a year of driving with epas (first custom electrics, later an ebay box) i took it off... the playstation feeling was killing me, but i learned to live with it... the worst part was the epas couldnt cope with the sudden changes of direction, and the steering wheel would become much harder to turn right away... my setup didnt help either (3 deg of castor , low right height, r888 ect) ... i ended up puting an astra g ehpas pump, and i'm more than satisfied... the "oil" feeling on the steering wheel is great, the wheel isnt to hard, and isnt too light...just the way as it should be...so i would recomend it to everyone...the pump is rather easy to fit...
Can someone do a summary of this for me please?
My power steering pump is leaking on my cup, I'd like to get rid of some more s**t from the engine bay of I could so this seems like a good option.
What am I looking at price wise, what parts will I need and how much work is it?
Thanks
My power steering pump is leaking on my cup, I'd like to get rid of some more s**t from the engine bay of I could so this seems like a good option.
What am I looking at price wise, what parts will I need and how much work is it?
Thanks
Renault Clio 172 Ph2
Was done a few pages back in this post: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...on-172-Cup&p=10190018&viewfull=1#post10190018
Sorry I'm In a 172 cup. Which bits won't I need? Haha
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
If your on a cup you need everything in that list except the alternator. You remove your p/steering pump and lines, the original column and the rack if your fitting a dci item. Then it's a case of fit the column, control box fitting and wiring in and rack assuming that's the option you choose. Easy. The worst bit of the job is fitting the epas column as you have to remove and refit the motor. The access to the bolts is awful with the lower half of the dash in place. It's doable though.
