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EPAS on 172 Cup

I've had the subframe off today so while I was there I checked the steering rack bolts, which is much easier off the car! Despite doing them as tight as I could when I orginally fitted the rack they still took another half a turn off the car. We will see what difference this makes with sticky tyres on as I haven't had a knock since putting winters on.
 
Just picked up a colum, motor, ecu, lower colum, and the eBay adjuster for £110!! I'll use a cup rack looped and hopefully fit it in the next few months after the cage goes in!
 
I bought the above items along with R14LYX's car. I have ready many pages of this thread (not all of them) but am not currently sure about how to wire it all up and exactly what I need to loop on the standard cup rack and what to lubricate if I drain all of the oil from the rack.
 
TarkMalbot said:
I bought the above items along with R14LYX's car. I have ready many pages of this thread (not all of them) but am not currently sure about how to wire it all up and exactly what I need to loop on the standard cup rack and what to lubricate if I drain all of the oil from the rack.
Click to expand...
All you need to loop is the 2 pipes on top of the rack that are about in the middle of the rack itself. Lubrication wise - I've had one of these racks in bits to see what the score is regards this very thing. The short answer is, you don't need anything in there to lube the rack
Itself. What you do need is to grease the end where the pinion is on the drivers side. Peel the gaitor back and grease it up mate. Work it left to right a few times and your good to go. You could always pack it with grease though so you've got a bit spare so to speak.
You technically don't need to loop the rack either, but, it keeps the s**t out the rack. All that's in there is a few seals mate. I've done away with them on my new rack.
At the pinion end just blank the pipes off. Either buy some blanking plugs, or cut the pipes and crimp them. You don't need to really f**k about here tbh.
Wiring is a piece of piss. 1x permanent battery feed using a decent size cable with a fuse. 1x Earth, 1x ignition feed and the rest are the wires from the control box, assistance adjuster and torque sensor. It's really that simple mate.

Hope that helps.
 
Yes thanks. I will get a good look at it all when I am home. As per usual I do all my research and questions whilst offshore and then use the information to suss it all out properly when I get home. I also have two racks so could potentially use my crashed donor car to get the rack overhauled and blanked off ready for the swap.
 
NorthloopCup said:
Wiring is a piece of piss. 1x permanent battery feed using a decent size cable with a fuse. 1x Earth, 1x ignition feed and the rest are the wires from the control box, assistance adjuster and torque sensor. It's really that simple mate.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the eBay control box, adjuster etc or something else?
 
NorthloopCup said:
You'll need some Allen key headed blanks mate as normal hex head ones are no good. M12x1 and M14x1 seems to ring a bell.
Click to expand...
I think I have seen a link you posted earlier to a place that sells them. I haven't committed to buying them yet as I want to see on the rack exactly what it is I am blanking before I buy them. I am also searching the thread to see where it was suggested to send the rack to for overhaul.
 
Pauleds said:
Do you mean the eBay control box, adjuster etc or something else?
Click to expand...
That's for everything.

Power cable is for the steering column ECU abs you'll need to run an earth cable from that too. Best to get plug with the ecu so you can splice on these cables.

12v live and earth for control box just splice into existing loom
 
TarkMalbot said:
I think I have seen a link you posted earlier to a place that sells them. I haven't committed to buying them yet as I want to see on the rack exactly what it is I am blanking before I buy them. I am also searching the thread to see where it was suggested to send the rack to for overhaul.
Click to expand...
Chemical metal is your friend here mate if you cba to buy blanking plugs.
 
TarkMalbot said:
If I can sell one of my Cup racks I would consider buying a DCI one for a neater job and then have that overhauled.
Click to expand...
Just make sure you get the right one mate as some are slightly more turns lock to lock. I only kept my hpas rack as it made sense to leave everything there in case the Epas was s**t! Myself and James were some of, if not the first people to do the epas conversion.
 
I was looking at these on ebay, but could probably build most of that in work if I knew what was in that black box bit
Ebay number 180984984338
 
NorthloopCup said:
Just make sure you get the right one mate as some are slightly more turns lock to lock. I only kept my hpas rack as it made sense to leave everything there in case the Epas was s**t! Myself and James were some of, if not the first people to do the epas conversion.
Click to expand...

Which rack has the 3 turn lock to lock? I keep reading DCI but there is a lot of racks for sale on eBay. Even if I sell one of my 172 cup racks I will still have the other but how reusable it will be depends on if I cut the pipes off to remove it.
 
I have just read the guide and it says the rack with part number 7700437055 is the one you want and has 2.75 turn to turn rack. I think I will buy one of these and sell on my Cup rack if I can.

EDIT. Just bought one for £30 and will speak to Autosteer Direct Tomorrow about getting it refurbished. How much does this usually cost out of interest?
 
Last edited:
i just bought the kit on ebay, think it was from portugal? couldn't be bothered to sort all the bits out separately.
 
Did you click my link? It was just for the power cable, Earth and fuse. It was actually a amp wiring kit but a lot cheaper than buying cable, fuse and holder. I already have the other eBay kit.
 
Hi guys,
Planning on doing this conversion on my Mk.I Hybrid
Does anyone know if the Clio II EPAS column is the same overall lenght as the Williams/Valver PAS column????

If I get a column without the control box included and then get the box separately - can I use any Clio II control box?.

Btw...
A few links for the EPAS controller kit - in various versions.
Ebay item no.: 262195433245 (incl. fuse etc.)
Ebay item no.: 180984984338 (incl. fuse etc.)
Ebay item no.: 331771766834 (no pot meter but with momentary switch to activate full assistance)

Michael
 
I think it's possible , but from memory I think the columns are different , so quite possibly some welding may need to take place .
 
Williams and Clio 2 EPAS columns obvioulsly look very different.

From my point of view the overall length is the important issue.
A Williams/Valver column is approximately 83-84cm end to end.
Length between mounting holes is 11,5-12cm, Column is 48 spline (Ø20mm)
Additionally there is a slight angle between the 4 mounting holes and the column "direction".
Hard to explain but the picture indicates it.

How long is the Clio 2 EPAS column?
Does it have this slight angle as well?

IMAG2587_zpsqe5c7nrs.jpg

IMAG2588_zpscrrlpnnb.jpg

IMAG2591_zps5zzkdhvb.jpg

IMAG2592_zpshqhxufvq.jpg


Michael
 
Hi all,

Does anyone have any pics of the mounts of the DCI rack? I picked up a refurbed one but looking at it 'square' the mounts dont seem to be flat, one is at a different angle to the other if that makes sense. I have attached a pic to show what I mean.

If the rack is mis-aligned, any tips on how to straighten it?
IMG_4625.webp
 
I'm in the middle of converting my 182 cup to epas. I already have a cup alternator setup and air con in the bin. My question is I have a 5pk847 belt but why do people use 5pk instead of 6pk belt width? Is the 5pk okay missing a rib on the alt and crank pulley? Will it not jump around?
 
Id say it's up to you if you wanted to fit a 6pk.
The only reason it would jump is if it was off line .
Never heard of a belt jumping through normal operation .

5pk is the norm to fit .

Good question
 
Hi everyone,

Im going to fit this setup over the next few days now I have finally got a straight rack!

Just a few things to check;

Using an 8 gauge wiring kit from my car audio days for the power - its good quality vibe stuff - is this 'beefy' enough?

Where can I take a switched feed for the control box - Ive seen yellow ignition barrel wire, anywhere else? Am I best splicing in with solder?

My battery will be in the boot, shall I run the power cable to the battery, or, to the longacre through connector I have on the bulkhead, and fuse next to that?

Thanks.

Annoying tag mode @GrahamS @NorthloopCup
 
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