TomoTek - 182 Track Build here we come!...

[Tomotek]

Thanks bud. Boot makes a lot of sense. The bonnet is an interesting one. Planning to start getting some weight out of mine but don't like the way that the GRP bonnets lift in the middle. Also don't want to fit the catches too far in as want to leave space for a lamp pod. I do wonder if a strategic bit of metal in the leading edge of the bonnet could be used to help stiffen it.

I did look breifly into what we could do when we get a GRP bonnet... I was thinking that I'd probably bond on a stiffening rib across the leading edge.. pretty much what your describing.. either "hat stiffener" or "blade frame" type .. or even wet lay some GRP over a strip of honeycomb or rohacell.. all of which could be done on a metal bonnet too..

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

I did look breifly into what we could do when we get a GRP bonnet... I was thinking that I'd probably bond on a stiffening rib across the leading edge.. pretty much what your describing.. either "hat stiffener" or "blade frame" type .. or even wet lay some GRP over a strip of honeycomb or rohacell.. all of which could be done on a metal bonnet too..

Yes it sounds like we're on a similar page. I had thought about something as similar as a length of L-section; so cutting a slot into the underside webbing of the GRP bonnet for the vertical to sit inside, then bond the flat into the bonnet. You could rivet and/or apply laminates over it for additional strength. Could obviously be welded into a steel bonnet. Not sure how much space there is to get an effective section in there though.

 

[NorthloopCup]

My bonnet flapped around a bit, but it never bent out of shape. It was fully deskinned as well. It was tested up to 150mph without issue.

 

[MarkT]

Hi Mark. Yeah we have a deadline finally.. Blyton at the beginning of August.. So lots to do!.
Phase two will consist of a few upgrades.. I think the main ones will be:

• Fibreglass panels
• Quaife Differential
• AP 4 pot front brakes
• Geo Correction
• Engine Rebuild / ITB's / ECU

Very nice! Why not a plate diff over an ATB seeing as you're going to only use it on the track?

 

[@Josh]

@Tomotek what did you use to skin your bonnet? Looks a really neat job!
Just figuring out what is best to use.

Thanks Josh

 

[dann2707]

I was speaking to Ben (I think) yesterday at Oulton Park, nice to meet you. We went to the same Uni and work in similar jobs now. Pass my regards on if you could.

 

[Tomotek]

@Tomotek what did you use to skin your bonnet? Looks a really neat job!
Just figuring out what is best to use.

Thanks Josh

Hi Josh.. I used a slitting disc on an angle grinder to cut the outer profile.. then on the tricky bit where the inner skin is siliconed onto the outer skin I used my windscreen removal kit (the piano wire with handles on the end) to slice through it, as to not distort the outer skin... then just used my Stanley blade scraper to carefully remove the final bits of silicone.. dremel to clean the edges up and then stuck some edging rubber to finish it off.

 

[Tomotek]

I was speaking to Ben (I think) yesterday at Oulton Park, nice to meet you. We went to the same Uni and work in similar jobs now. Pass my regards on if you could.

Hey mate... yeah u met my partner in crime @Jenbo (Ben) .. he was the lucky one who had some time off to do some passenger laps in our mates saxo.. did you have a good day yourself, smashing the laps in?.. ah you went to Hudds Uni too?. I graduated there the same year as Ben, Back in '11

 

[Tomotek]

Quick update!.. the thread has taken abit of a hit with the whole photobucket saga!.. (thanks to the admin guys that are working to resolve the issue @Knuckles @Nik)

I have quite a few posts and pictures to put up, but just haven't had time.. the car build has moved on dramatically since the last update.

I'm flat out currently getting the car ready for its first outing at Blyton on Monday 7th

The big announcement though is the engine started tonight for the first time in three years!!

 

[AdamCup]

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

Agree need more custom fabrication p**n

 

[Tomotek]

Agree need more custom fabrication p**n

Haha!.. They'll be a a few more custom bits in the posts to come.. I'll get the pics up next week!

 

[Tomotek]

Went out this morning and popped the bonnet for a cheeky look!...

 

[Tomotek]

Managed to get most of my pics off my phone and uploaded. I'll get some posts up over the weekend!, bring the thread back up to date

 

[Tomotek]

#39

After gutting the doors I turned my attention to the engine bay and started to look at the cooling system. My plan was to use a slightly smaller front rad than standard to future proof for fitting ITBs (rad needs to be lower to give clearance for their routing). I started out by buying a silicone hose kit from MTC Motorsport - This kit was a lot better value for money than the more expensive Forge / Samco alternatives, with (from first impressions) the same quality.

I then ordered some clamps for the hoses and a 90deg silicone reducer from AutoSiliconeHoses , for the throttle body to air filter.

The header tank and hoses were then installed into the car.

I purposely left off the heater hoses as they needed modification to create the bypass to the thermostat housing as the heater has been removed.

The final pic really shows how much room there is between the engine and the front bumper beam, once all the ancillaries are removed.
This gave me a good idea for the rad mounting and inlet routeing which i'll come onto in the next few posts.

 

[Tomotek]

#40

With the coolant hoses fitted and some scheming up to do on the inlet/radiator I decided to finish off the engine bay extinguisher lines and get the fuel rail and fuel feed felxi hose fitted.

The extinguisher hardline was run from the bulkhead connector in the cockpit along the scuttle area and then through a 90deg bulkhead fitting and into the engine bay. I ran a T piece through the bulkhead heater panel to aim at the exhaust manifold, then a 90deg end fitting routed under the engine mount, directed at the fuel rail. The pish on fittings were supplied with the OMP fire extinguisher and the hardlines and bulkhead fittings were again sourced from ATEC

The original plastic fuel tank cover was also re fitted ready to be wired in.

I had already ran the fuel hardlines through the car, detailed in a previous post. >click here< I just needed to run the flexi line from the bulkhead to the rail now. I set about making the flexi lines. I also incorporated a Staubli fuel coupler so that I could pump out the fuel from the tank to help calculate fuel consumption and to drain the tank. This also ensures a known quantity of fuel can be put into the tank for racing.

It also means the engine can be removed and installed without splitting fuel lines etc.

Mocking up a second coupler and fuel line routing for the fuel rail return when/if we install a different fuel rail in the future. (all the future proofing makes modification later so much easier)

Next on the job list was to clean up and wash out the injectors

I also noted on the original fuel rail fitting that the first o ring was damaged. ( I presume from getting caught on the inlet lip on the rail. (I have read on here that is quite a common issue). I ordered another one from Clarendon to fit it. 200-11-V175

I then took the felxi line and original end fitting down to ATEC where they kindly re crimped it on. Best way for these types of fittings to be attached to flexi hose!

Finished hose installed onto the car and clipped to the fuel rail

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

Love it. Do you have any details on the fuel couplers?

 

[JP83]

Absolutely love this build. The attention to detail is amazing. Just things like the fuel-coupler, and the braided line to the fuel rail.
Such a shame about the photobucket issue. Hopefully all the originals can be restored via other means.

 

[Tomotek]

Love it. Do you have any details on the fuel couplers?

Hi, they're Staubli SPT-08 couplers from RaceParts

Absolutely love this build. The attention to detail is amazing. Just things like the fuel-coupler, and the braided line to the fuel rail.
Such a shame about the photobucket issue. Hopefully all the originals can be restored via other means.

Cheers mate!!.. I've picked up a few things regarding race car builds from current and previous jobs, it's nice to be able to implement them on my own car now

Yeah the photobucket thing has been a right saga, luckily some of the genius admin guys are running a script to download them all from photobucket and re uploaded them on the CS server.. one week into it and they're only up to 2013 I think.. that many pics on here!!

 

[Tomotek]

#41

The next stage of the build was to finalise the inlet design. As I alluded to in a previous post I had an idea, after looking at how much room there was for the radiator, of how I might locate the inlet ducting and filter.

I have seen many ways of locating and routing air inlet ducts on here, but none have really stood out as being optimal or that efficient. Some even having a negative effect on performance.

I decided upon trying to achieve a ram-air style ducting. Which i wanted to feed from the upper LH grille on the bumper. To enable this modification I had to looking into adjusting the rad mounting position, which actually tied in nicely with what I had in mind for the cooling.

First thing was to fit the carbon BMC CDA air filter to the silicone 90deg hose from ASH

I then sourced an inlet duct from Revotec to match the bumper grille size. The duct is a 255mm x 80mm - ID255-80
I then fitted some black Neoprene flexible ducting to attach the duct to the filter.

I started to mock up the routing and check that everything fit as I had envisioned.

All looking good so far!!

I then started to mock up a mount plate, that was to be bolted to the bumper beam, to hold the duct in place.

I took all the measurements away and designed a plate on CAD and printed out a paper template to ensure all the measurements were correct before making the proper aluminium version.

Everything looked ok so I printed another template and made the aluminium version. I had no swaging tools at work so decided to leave them out for this design, and if needed in the future i'd add them in.

The duct and plate all bolted up and secure to the bumper beam.

All I needed now was to secure the air filter to the engine. I made a small stainless steel bracket to bolt to the thermostat housing, which I then attached to the filter using a large jubilee clip covered with heat shrink.

I also sprayed up the fuel rail guard to match the inlet plenum and bolted that to the engine.
With that attached, that was the fuel system and inlet system complete

 

[AdamCup]

Awesome work as always Tom :up:

 

[Tomotek]

#42

For the next part of the build i concentrated on getting the cooling system nailed.

I started out looking at potential radiator sizes that would allow me to position the rad under the newly mounted inlet duct. I decided to source the radiator from Advanced Radiators up in Newcastle. They have plenty of options to choose from. I didn't see the point of buying a custom aluminium rad as these rads are so cheap and more than adequate to do the job.

After looking on the website I narrowed the options down to 5 radiators, all with their own pros and cons.

I did some calculations on core size and required cooling efficiency and settled on a radiator which has been used many times on here. The SE310 from a VW polo/Seat Ibiza. This had the best combo of size /price and mounting positions.

With the core size being ~17% smaller than a standard clio rad I wanted to look at improving the rads efficiency. To do this I wanted to get as much air flow through the radiator as possible. I always see people cutting holes in the bumper and bumper beam to try to get more air through the rad. I'm not a fan of this method. Its very draggy and massively weakens the crash structure.

I have decided to angle the radiator to drop it even lower. Doing this will enable me to make a duct fed from the lower grille on the bumper. This way I can duct all the air through the rad and avoid blocking it with the bumper beam. To do this I need to make some custom mount plates to secure the rad to the subframe

To give the rad more room to fit in the angled position i trimmed the alternator mount.

Quick check before a lick of paint.

With the alternator mount done I trial fitted the radiator and fitted a drain point to make draining the system easier. I used an aluminium temp sensor adapter with a bung from ATEC. I also decided to remove the thermostat and blank off the heater outlet on the thermostat housing. This meant i could simplify the water system with only the two rad hoses and the two feed hoses to the header tank.

View from under the car.

I then set about making the mount plates to attach the rad to the car. These plate are bolted directly to the subframe and the bumper beam . The rad is then isolated through rubber grommets and bolted to the plates through custom machined top hats to the lugs of the rad end tanks.

I then fitted a SPAL 10" pull fan and mounting plates which I purchased from T7Design . These plates were custom bent to allow the fan to sit flush against the rad fins, when bolted to the end tank mount lugs.

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I then mounted the radiator to the car.

Really happy with how it came out. All that is left now is to make the duct and mount that to the radiator/ bumper grille.

 

[Tomotek]

Awesome work as always Tom :up:

Thanks Adam.. yours is coming along nicely too!!

 

[Tomotek]

Missed off a couple of pictures of the mount plates bolted to the radiator off the car. :up::up:

 

[Daz...]

Amazing work as usual!

 

[Ricardos]

Awesome updates, the kind of build qualities I imagine a lot of people have in their minds they'd like to do but don't have the facilities etc to carry out.

 

[Ricardos]

Awesome updates, the kind of build qualities I imagine a lot of people have in their minds they'd like to do but don't have the facilities etc to carry out.

 

[Tomotek]

Amazing work as usual!

Cheers Daz..

Awesome updates, the kind of build qualities I imagine a lot of people have in their minds they'd like to do but don't have the facilities etc to carry out.

Thanks, and thanks for reading.. I never know if i'm going into too much detail or not with my posts.. I do feel fortunate to have had access to the tools and gained the knowledge to be able to do what I have envisaged.

 

[CZUCZU]

Really like it

 

[simons-d]

Cheers Daz..



Thanks, and thanks for reading.. I never know if i'm going into too much detail or not with my posts.. I do feel fortunate to have had access to the tools and gained the knowledge to be able to do what I have envisaged.

Good stuff as usual Scott - not too much detail btw and good that you include where you get the bits from...

 

[Tomotek]

Good stuff as usual Scott - not too much detail btw and good that you include where you get the bits from...

Cheers mate. I'll try to keep the same level of detail. It can get quite time consuming though (probably why my posts are so far behind the actual build!) haha

 

[Tomotek]

#43

With the radiator fitted I took the opportunity to take a break from the big jobs and do some of the small odd jobs I needed to do. (Nothing too exciting)

With alternator mount modified and bolted up I ordered a new shorter alternator belt and got that fitted. I used some string to measure up the length before I bought it. I went for a Gates 5PK838 - Micro-V Horizon

The OMP roll cage padding bonded and cable tied to the cage.

Door pulls attached.. I also put some carbon effect vinyl on the top of the door bars to protect them from scuffing when getting in and out. (Lighting is terrible in the garage and with the flash on, makes the interior paint look a lot worse than it is in real life. (Defo need to fit some door cards too, neaten it up a bit)

Rear Clio badge fitted. (Not sure where the old one went tbh, so had to buy one from Ebay)

Fitted a new Skoda Fabia front bumper splitter trim that I got from Skoda Horton . not bad for £15 - just needs a trim to both sides as its a tad longer than a Clio bumper. This was drilled and bolted to the bumper.

I then looked into the fwd mount on the main exhaust silencer. The original one wasn't in the best place to mount to the pin on the Scorpion silencer.
I took the original mount and removed the pin part before welding it to a new steel plate in the orientation that I desired. I then bolted this up and fitted a new rubber hanger. The original mount studs on the boot floor had seized so i cut those off and drilled through the original locations and used a couple of stainless bolts in their place.

Some fresh engine and gearbox oil from OPIE OILS went in.
Motul 300V 5w40 engine oil (6L)
Motul Gear 300 75w90 gearbox oil (4L)

Next job was to secure the rear brake flexi line to keep them away from the damper spring and the wheel/tyre.
I fitted some riv nuts into the rear beam and bolted on a couple of P-clips to secure the hose.

I then filled and bled the brake system with some new
Motul RBF 660 fully synthetic DOT4 brake fluid

I used my own custom made bleed bottles which made the process a whole lot easier.

I also made one with an additional bleed tube for a friend with a 197 so he could open the dual bleed nipples on the brembo calipers

 

[Ricardos]

Cheers Daz..



Thanks, and thanks for reading.. I never know if i'm going into too much detail or not with my posts.. I do feel fortunate to have had access to the tools and gained the knowledge to be able to do what I have envisaged.

It must be nice to have pretty much everything at your disposal, I'm jealous in a nice way. It's a breath of fresh air to read a project thread that's to the point, detailed with some humour thrown in at points along the way. Looking forward to more updates :blush:

 

[haimsey]

Top updates, attention to detail is fantastic. Very impressed by the future proofing not thought process. As mentioned above, I'd love to get this deep into detail with my track build but don't have the space/facilities to do it.

 

[Mash.]

Great updates as usual - those bleed bottles... do they have 1 way valves in them?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

[Aydon182]

i love how photobucket has ruined every car project thread on the internet ever

 

[Tomotek]

It must be nice to have pretty much everything at your disposal, I'm jealous in a nice way. It's a breath of fresh air to read a project thread that's to the point, detailed with some humour thrown in at points along the way. Looking forward to more updates :blush:

Yeah it was nice for sure!.. I miss it a lot. With the new job at JLR I don't have access to any workshops anymore, time to kit out my own garage now I think!.

Thanks, I do enjoy documenting everything.. I'd like to own my own business at some point, maybe in race car prep / design so i think it's a good platform to show what I can do [emoji5]

 

[Tomotek]

Top updates, attention to detail is fantastic. Very impressed by the future proofing not thought process. As mentioned above, I'd love to get this deep into detail with my track build but don't have the space/facilities to do it.

Thanks fella!.. it's taken some proper thinking that's for sure, but it should make my life loads easier when I want to upgrade things!.. I can remember when I started the build and I was in the smallest single garage going, I do appreciate how having more room make everything so much more easier!.. I put all the scratches and dinks on the bodywork down to that little garage haha!

Great updates as usual - those bleed bottles... do they have 1 way valves in them?

Ta!.. no they don't have any one way valves.. not needed IMO

They have a hose inside the bottle instead which reaches to the bottom. Then before bleeding, a small amount of fresh fluid is put into the bottle so that if the system goes to draw any fluid back through the bleed nipple it draws fresh fluid instead of air.

That's the method I've been taught anyway

 

[JackJack]

Good work with the rad :up:

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

Yeah definitely keep up with the thread. It's nice to see people putting effort into their threads, rather than the social media style of pics with no substance. The 'how' and 'why' is every bit as interesting as the pictures.