I'm sure we can sort something
ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Good effort mate, just make sure there is no moment (overtime) in the frame or mounting point, esp on the front bumper.
How do you mean Sonny? The front pipe hangs off the front grill and can be adjusted, if the car has a prang in a race I can then tie it around the slam panel with string to what ever height I want. The height is not so important though +- 1" is fine.
Ahh Yes of course, I was having a moment. Out of curiosity would this detect a rear bent beam, I'm guessing it would.
Yes it could I suppose by using the shell as a reference point when checking the rear camber and toe rather than just the wheel face itself.
It couldn't tell you if its bent around its mounting points although using a tape measure from underneath the spring cups to the floor with the rear jacked up and the shocks and springs out would give you that. Being bent in that axis would act as an ARB in a way and in any other axes its not so important as long as its true to the 3 other wheels.
I measured the wheelbase front and back to a point I will reference for helping to check that in the future also.
It couldn't tell you if its bent around its mounting points although using a tape measure from underneath the spring cups to the floor with the rear jacked up and the shocks and springs out would give you that. Being bent in that axis would act as an ARB in a way and in any other axes its not so important as long as its true to the 3 other wheels.
I measured the wheelbase front and back to a point I will reference for helping to check that in the future also.
Yeah it does but it won't tell you if its bent around its rotational axis or even how central it is to the car, that's what I was trying to say in the ramble above.
Location side to side on the car is a difficult one to pin down when the shells themselves aren't likely to be totally straight so it's difficultm to find a datum point you can trust.
Also the effect of moving it a few mm sideways is likely to be negligible anyway handling wise tbh anyway so not massively worth focussing on unless it's miles out.
Also the effect of moving it a few mm sideways is likely to be negligible anyway handling wise tbh anyway so not massively worth focussing on unless it's miles out.
Yeah its just apparent on some past threads on here where the beam geometry hasn't been atoo bad but when spacers are fitted its obvious the beam either isn't central or has knocked on of the legs.
As you say not a big deal handling wise but when you start trying to run things with very little to no gaps its important.
As you say not a big deal handling wise but when you start trying to run things with very little to no gaps its important.
At that stage its just an extra 2mm shim or spacer thickness on one side away from being central again though realistically!
Christ, ive never seen or heard of a car with that sort of difference!
Novas varied by a few mm, I think the max was about 6mm IIRC, and I though those were bad!
Mr Toms on here recently had a stupid amount of a difference which was only realised after fitting spacers although he never gave a figure it looked 15mm
So I have started to tick some of the jobs off the list.
Got the car in the lock up, jacked up and ready to go.
I was faced with this which boils my piss on these Clio's.
Spent some time to straighten it half decent and give it a lick of stone chip before I revisit the cosmetics later in the year.
Not bad considering
Jobs on the hit list were brakes and suspension but first of all I wanted to finish my string rig. I got another length of tube so I can measure camber and toe at the same time and also some sticky back foam to protect the rig from rubbing on the back bumper. I added a strengthener to the adjustment legs too.
Complete although I still need some good heavy weights for the plumb lines.
I then went onto the brakes. Stripping down the fronts to clean, lube the carriers and re paint everything I found both CV boots detached. Luckily the CV's were alright despite the fact they were bone dry with no grease inside and the wheels having no grease either which hints towards its been like that a while. Just as well the car only done 2k miles last year.
Filled the CV's and fitted clamps both sides.
The callipers had been painted previously but had lost their shine.
Everything stripped down, lip in inside ground off and pads de glazed.
Back together with fresh paint.
Same again on the rear after un seizing the OSR calliper slide. I still have to wire lock the pads in as I had them fall out on track previously and I would rather not do that again. The cup bias valve was also free which was a shocker,
Next was suspension.
Having taken a Geo the day previous as a calibration/reference for the rig I set about going through everything with a fine tooth comb. The ride heights were all over the place and the bump steer was chronic being so low. Jim had said the collies were stiff so I freed off the fronts for future adjustments. I then freed off the damping adjusters front and back and set to minimum. I jacked it up 5mm both sides at the front and went some way towards evening up the 20mm rear height difference after un seizing the adjusters. The rear was raised 30mm one side to give some rake and get the weight over the front.
I fitted the RARB while I had the rear springs out and set too. The arches and underneath need a detail but that can wait until after its became friendly with Knockhills green stuff.
During checking the steering there was some slight play in the N/S tie rod so I borrowed a new one from the race car and fitted it.
Having done all that it was time to get it down on its wheels and get the geo done
I acquired a stand of some type not so long ago, maybe a guitar stand I'm not sure but I knew I could find a use for it. Anyway today it got its calling. Perfect steering wheel clamp for doing tracking.
The car will only see Knockhill realistically as far as tracks go so I thought I would do something slightly different, you only lean on the right side once at KH basically so I put some more camber on the left. I have started using a vernier calliper for measurements so that's improved accuracy but I will improve on ride heights/geo and possibly get some cheap bathroom scales and do the corner weights but I ran out of time before going for :cheers: today.
The plan on Sunday are to strip the engine of rocker cover, all engine mounts and thermostat housing so they can be sent for blasting Monday. Hopefully Tuesday I will get it all built back up with fresh paint on everything including the slam panel, tidy up the engine wiring, adjust the engine position, fit a new timing belt amongst some seals and do the Burpspeed linkage mod. That just leaves me to make low subframes, mount the seats and harnesses and possibly my smaller Sabelt wheel during the week.
Got the car in the lock up, jacked up and ready to go.
I was faced with this which boils my piss on these Clio's.
Spent some time to straighten it half decent and give it a lick of stone chip before I revisit the cosmetics later in the year.
Not bad considering
Jobs on the hit list were brakes and suspension but first of all I wanted to finish my string rig. I got another length of tube so I can measure camber and toe at the same time and also some sticky back foam to protect the rig from rubbing on the back bumper. I added a strengthener to the adjustment legs too.
Complete although I still need some good heavy weights for the plumb lines.
I then went onto the brakes. Stripping down the fronts to clean, lube the carriers and re paint everything I found both CV boots detached. Luckily the CV's were alright despite the fact they were bone dry with no grease inside and the wheels having no grease either which hints towards its been like that a while. Just as well the car only done 2k miles last year.
Filled the CV's and fitted clamps both sides.
The callipers had been painted previously but had lost their shine.
Everything stripped down, lip in inside ground off and pads de glazed.
Back together with fresh paint.
Same again on the rear after un seizing the OSR calliper slide. I still have to wire lock the pads in as I had them fall out on track previously and I would rather not do that again. The cup bias valve was also free which was a shocker,
Next was suspension.
Having taken a Geo the day previous as a calibration/reference for the rig I set about going through everything with a fine tooth comb. The ride heights were all over the place and the bump steer was chronic being so low. Jim had said the collies were stiff so I freed off the fronts for future adjustments. I then freed off the damping adjusters front and back and set to minimum. I jacked it up 5mm both sides at the front and went some way towards evening up the 20mm rear height difference after un seizing the adjusters. The rear was raised 30mm one side to give some rake and get the weight over the front.
I fitted the RARB while I had the rear springs out and set too. The arches and underneath need a detail but that can wait until after its became friendly with Knockhills green stuff.
During checking the steering there was some slight play in the N/S tie rod so I borrowed a new one from the race car and fitted it.
Having done all that it was time to get it down on its wheels and get the geo done
I acquired a stand of some type not so long ago, maybe a guitar stand I'm not sure but I knew I could find a use for it. Anyway today it got its calling. Perfect steering wheel clamp for doing tracking.
The car will only see Knockhill realistically as far as tracks go so I thought I would do something slightly different, you only lean on the right side once at KH basically so I put some more camber on the left. I have started using a vernier calliper for measurements so that's improved accuracy but I will improve on ride heights/geo and possibly get some cheap bathroom scales and do the corner weights but I ran out of time before going for :cheers: today.
The plan on Sunday are to strip the engine of rocker cover, all engine mounts and thermostat housing so they can be sent for blasting Monday. Hopefully Tuesday I will get it all built back up with fresh paint on everything including the slam panel, tidy up the engine wiring, adjust the engine position, fit a new timing belt amongst some seals and do the Burpspeed linkage mod. That just leaves me to make low subframes, mount the seats and harnesses and possibly my smaller Sabelt wheel during the week.
Last edited:
I had time to do a few bits today but nothing serious.
The rear wiper was annoying me as it had a broken piece and a mismatched wiper blade. I got a new arm and blade but in typical Clio form it was seized solid.
I burnt the wiper to remove it from the boss.
To be left with this
I then heated the boss and it popped off no problem. I then fitted the new one but with no pictures as we know what that looks like.
Old vs New
I forgot to get pictures of how the ride height is now after adjusting it yesterday but taking it for a spirited drive I was really disappointed with the handling, too much understeer so I'll revisit all that after I do the engine. Tomorrow I'm going to strip down the engine and bay to do the belt, paint some parts and the slam panel so that will be complete Tuesday once I get the blasted bits back.
Not being keen on having a pipercross filter on the breather I ordered a tank today and some silicone hose so I'll throw them on while I'm at it. I came across these which are good quality and basically a copy of the tanks Mocal do.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torques-1...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58ab2bbb19
I will update as I do the engine, there's some Kermit green paint being thrown around so I look forward to the results.
The rear wiper was annoying me as it had a broken piece and a mismatched wiper blade. I got a new arm and blade but in typical Clio form it was seized solid.
I burnt the wiper to remove it from the boss.
To be left with this
I then heated the boss and it popped off no problem. I then fitted the new one but with no pictures as we know what that looks like.
Old vs New
I forgot to get pictures of how the ride height is now after adjusting it yesterday but taking it for a spirited drive I was really disappointed with the handling, too much understeer so I'll revisit all that after I do the engine. Tomorrow I'm going to strip down the engine and bay to do the belt, paint some parts and the slam panel so that will be complete Tuesday once I get the blasted bits back.
Not being keen on having a pipercross filter on the breather I ordered a tank today and some silicone hose so I'll throw them on while I'm at it. I came across these which are good quality and basically a copy of the tanks Mocal do.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torques-1...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58ab2bbb19
I will update as I do the engine, there's some Kermit green paint being thrown around so I look forward to the results.
imprezaworks
ClioSport Club Member
Mk5 Golf GTI :)
Awesome mate, great update.
Cheers
Tonight I started on doing the belt and having a tidy up.
Started with this
Ended with this
By removing this
Stripped cup bracket and drained pas fluid for replacement.
Stripped out gen 90
Got the tools in, inlet cam was a fud hair out but nothing that would affect performance. What looks like a newish dephaser too (bonus)
Removed the rocker cover to reveal 428's which was a doubt of mine.
Cleaned the head of all the RTV silicone and everything's as it should be, no leaks of any seals or wear to note.
I removed the backing plate and trumpets to tidy the wiring and in doing so I pulled the wires from the TPS (nightmare) so that needs rewired or replaced :dapprove:
Everything ready for blasting
Header tank is looking tired so I have left it soaking overnight and will run it through the dishwater after.
Updates will come tomorrow as I paint some bits and hopefully get a start on rebuilding it.
Started with this
Ended with this
By removing this
Stripped cup bracket and drained pas fluid for replacement.
Stripped out gen 90
Got the tools in, inlet cam was a fud hair out but nothing that would affect performance. What looks like a newish dephaser too (bonus)
Removed the rocker cover to reveal 428's which was a doubt of mine.
Cleaned the head of all the RTV silicone and everything's as it should be, no leaks of any seals or wear to note.
I removed the backing plate and trumpets to tidy the wiring and in doing so I pulled the wires from the TPS (nightmare) so that needs rewired or replaced :dapprove:
Everything ready for blasting
Header tank is looking tired so I have left it soaking overnight and will run it through the dishwater after.
Updates will come tomorrow as I paint some bits and hopefully get a start on rebuilding it.
Cheers Gaz, see I can work when I can be arsed 
Yeah I have had one on both my track clio's and I rate them very highly. Last time I fitted one I done it just on its own with no other changes. Drove it, fitted it and then drove it again and the difference is unreal on full stuff, it completed the new oem shocks and lowering springs perfect. It makes the back a lot more mobile which in turn gets the front gripping.
The handling in this thing is wishy washy just now with it fitted, I need to play with damping and get the rear on full hard I think.
Yeah I have had one on both my track clio's and I rate them very highly. Last time I fitted one I done it just on its own with no other changes. Drove it, fitted it and then drove it again and the difference is unreal on full stuff, it completed the new oem shocks and lowering springs perfect. It makes the back a lot more mobile which in turn gets the front gripping.
The handling in this thing is wishy washy just now with it fitted, I need to play with damping and get the rear on full hard I think.
Cheers Chi, you also have epic skills but in buying things lol.
You won't regret it.
Not the speed you work at mate... So what's the plan with this one? Put back to basic and sell the goodies?
Realistically just KH, I will make the journey south when I complete the racer. Its a 5 hour drive at least for Croft which is my 2nd closest circuit
Croft is a nice track other than being flat.
We're there at end of may as part of our "3 tracks in 3 days" stint.
Really looking forward to it as not been to croft for ages as it was so far away when we used to live in somerset.
Yeah I have been before and despite it being flat it has camber changes and the the sunny in/out complex round the back is brilliant. I done a track walk with my mate who was racing and its a really green circuit and you need big balls to attack the two chicanes at any any speed, especially the one out the back.
Your 3 day thing is only short sessions though right? That's the sort of thing I will do In the future to save on the wasted 500 miles round trip to Yorkshire every time I want to do a track down south.
Coming on nicely mate
Its a mix, its two evening sessions at Snet/Cadwell followed by a full day at croft on the last day.
Dont want to be in a situation where its too much of a rush from one to the other or where the tyres need replacing halfway through so thats why I didnt go full day on them all.
More to come tonight
I can't be leave I pulled the wiring off the TPS though, I have had to get a pin breakout from K-Tec, will hard wire it then have to reset the raw values on the lap top. Total nugget.Thats good that its an option, that's what scares me about multiple days away from home, I break something or something needs serviced everytime I do a TD, maybe I should slow down a bit. :quiet:
It's a pain having failures miles from home
I'm loving our new east mids location.
Before Combe or landow were only tracks anywhere close really, have so much choice now.
Donnington/silver stone/cadwell/blyton/Mallory/rockingham all within an hour if I put my foot down and add another hour and got loads more too like croft and snet and Bedford.
So nice being able to just pop out for an evening at Cadwell rather than it have to be hours of driving and hotel or camping etc.
I'm loving our new east mids location.
Before Combe or landow were only tracks anywhere close really, have so much choice now.
Donnington/silver stone/cadwell/blyton/Mallory/rockingham all within an hour if I put my foot down and add another hour and got loads more too like croft and snet and Bedford.
So nice being able to just pop out for an evening at Cadwell rather than it have to be hours of driving and hotel or camping etc.
It's a pain having failures miles from home
I'm loving our new east mids location.
Before Combe or landow were only tracks anywhere close really, have so much choice now.
Donnington/silver stone/cadwell/blyton/Mallory/rockingham all within an hour if I put my foot down and add another hour and got loads more too like croft and snet and Bedford.
Ohh shut up would you....
So nice being able to just pop out for an evening at Cadwell rather than it have to be hours of driving and hotel or camping etc.
Thanks
I had left the header tank soaking with bicarbonate soda over night but it didn't touch the scum so I then tried bleach which again done nothing. Going to give up I found some steradent and whacked that in with G101. Came out okay, not perfect but better and it was free.
As promised, after my mate finished work he came round with the blasted bits a pieces.
I got the paint cans heated up.
Got half way through priming the cam cover and stopped to file off the casting marks.
I then gave everything a coat of engine enamel.
Everything coated in crackle black and roasted with the heat gun.
One thing that annoys me on throttle bodied cars with the slam panel removed is the primer that is on show from Renault being tight arses.
I got some Mondial from eBay, stripped everything and gave it a quick rub down, paint and lacquer. Looking good, I just need to take some overspray of the subframe.
I managed to pick the decal off the engine mount so that got stripped, painted and put back together.
So that's everything painted except the gearbox mount cradle which I will get around to later along with the engine lifting eyes and anything else I find. I just need it together and running now to fine tune things for Saturday and also get the seats fitted.
The bay will be completed tomorrow along with new fluids all round and a brake bleed.
As promised, after my mate finished work he came round with the blasted bits a pieces.
I got the paint cans heated up.
Got half way through priming the cam cover and stopped to file off the casting marks.
I then gave everything a coat of engine enamel.
Everything coated in crackle black and roasted with the heat gun.
One thing that annoys me on throttle bodied cars with the slam panel removed is the primer that is on show from Renault being tight arses.
I got some Mondial from eBay, stripped everything and gave it a quick rub down, paint and lacquer. Looking good, I just need to take some overspray of the subframe.
I managed to pick the decal off the engine mount so that got stripped, painted and put back together.
So that's everything painted except the gearbox mount cradle which I will get around to later along with the engine lifting eyes and anything else I find. I just need it together and running now to fine tune things for Saturday and also get the seats fitted.
The bay will be completed tomorrow along with new fluids all round and a brake bleed.
