Brigsy's other cars - formerly kangoo 172 cup

SRF for me, easy get a year to 18 months out of it.

Be interesting to see if he gets that looking decent. My mate Haz is doing something similar, his has a renault 25 vs turbo engine and box in the bck.

Updates.

Kicked the Extra out of the garage whilst the kangoo is getting its ecu upgrade. Ive got a new mac valve to fix high boost so made a start on fitting.

On removal the issue with the old mac valve was pretty obvious.
Clean ish break on the wire, unsure if fatigue due to vibration due to the location bolted to the turbo compressor housing. The areas surrounding the turbo are less than ideal for relocating it, so bolted it to the front panel. I dont think this is really optimal and hose length a bit longer than id like, but cant have it all.



With that boxed off, i give it an oil change as due. Valvoline Vr1 20/50 mineral oil and purflux ls218 oil filter.Extraction pump as usual as i refuse to remove the sump plug now its leak free.
Note grill removed on the above pic. The oil filter is a nightmare to remove with the boost hose in front, fmic in front of that and alternator above. A stock gtt oil filter is relatively poor access wise but this is next level poor. 7/10 on the difficulty/arm scratching.



With that done, road testing. High boost works again, typically the boost curve is not the same and the pressure has gone down from 21psi to 19psi. Always find that swapping mac/n75 etc on tuned setups in open loop boost control always needs a tweak. Ill datalog and set up again or book it in for a quick dyno check.

Thanks for reading!!

How comes it open loop Brigsy?

Flob said:

How comes it open loop Brigsy?

Click to expand...

Been honest, unsure

We have the boost tapering in with rpm so i guess thats how Chris prefers to set them up.

Open loop is achievable within the time frame of a rolling road session, closed loop boost can be a right pain in the arse to get working properly so I think a lot of tuners just chose to get the job done with open loop.

However for me it leaves a lot to be desired, boost will change with different parts, weather, temperatures and I've had cars which on some days will hit boost cut and other days will be below target and tbh it can be a bit of a problem as a lot of the WOT mapping has been done at one particular boost/load so when this changes you often end up doing wot throttle pulls across different load sites which isn't ideal.

Depending on ecu you can often run closed loop boost and change target based on RPM/TPS/Wheel speed etc. Many will now also let you have switchable targets. Its probably something you are better off experimenting with mate, you know what the boost curve was when it was mapped so you would be very safe in implementing closed loop on the road, if it f***s up just go back to the dyno setup.

The goal is consistent and repeatable engine load which is especially good on track! As everytime you open the throttle you know whats going to happen.

The other thing is, and this isn't at all a slight on Chris but I suspect it is absolutely crazy the number of systems he tunes so he probably to a certain extent sticks with what he knows will work.

With Link for example, it took me ages to learn about some of the details surrounding the more advanced features and I got a lot wrong before it started to make sense, 10's of hours of reading and 12hrs+ of mapping later and its all good, but to then jump straight onto a different brand of ecu where they do things slightly differently would mean another 10+ hours of reading and learning when I know if I just choose standard speed density, open loop boost etc. you could get it a very good standard within the allotted time.

The trade off is later consistency to the dyno session, you can't check tune/boost/idle for different temperatures or conditions etc. So the fact he gets them so good is very impressive.

My mate asked me to look at his Pectel the other day and I didn't have a clue - may as well have never seen an after market ecu before. Im sure its great but I'm not sure I have the patience to understand wtf its doing.

Totally agree mate, i think Chris will use open loop due to time and trust in it working.

Ill defo investigate the closed loop. Nothing to lose as you say and scope for more consistency, Ive noticed slight differences in boost at altitude and air temps. Not massive but as expected. Can soon go back to open loop if its a problem.

Know exactly what you mean when looking at different ecu software for the first time. Looks totally alien on the complicated stuff. My venture into oem/winols made me realise how many hours are required to learn how to tune them. All fun though!

Chris would do closed loop if you want I'm sure.

Extra van on a roadtrip last Sunday.

You probably all think that all it does is trackdays and basically runs about empty etc which is not wrong in some respects, but over the 18 years ive had it, its done a fair bit of van stuff. Back in the day its done scrapyard runs on the bumpstops with the side exit exhaust scraping, picked up a 7 seater table and king size bed and mattress rammed in. Loads of appliances, car s**t engines tools etc. Its earned its keep but doesnt get used loads these days.

Anyway i have a 1930s house and have been looking for a cast iron range fire/cooker combo to refit in my kitchen. More for ornamental purposes but could prob be fitted to be used with some tlc and chimney recomissioned. Been looking for a while and sourced one local ish in Goole, Road trip in the hot weather and no ac as usual🤣

Rotated wheels front to back before the journey as front tread getting quite low, and think i lost a weight on front wheels at Croft over easter as had a little bit of balance wobble at motorway speeds.

Give it a quick clean. Bilt hamber auto wheel doing the business.

Clean

Hot as f**k day on Sunday but does not bother it, and just cruises along 72deg coolant temps. Get to the collection point for the fire and i then realised i totally underestimated how much the fireplace would weigh, so once loaded it was on its f**king arse. Not my first rodeo so laughed and steady drive home, luckily all motorway so smooth ish dodging the potholes.





Ball hair gap between tyre and arch, actually looks bigger in pic but about 1mm. Tyres did not catch arches luckily as the profile on the nankang ar1 semi slick is wider than the toyo r888r i used to run. Arches well fettled years ago luckily for situations like this. I dont use this often enough for carrying loads, but ideally need higher et wheels like i used to run years ago for more clearance.


Fireplace looks good anyway. This will be a nice restore project when i do my kitchen in the next year or so. The seller said it was in daily use until 18month ago, it was only removed as they thought the flue /chimney was knackered but turned out the fire bricks were shot.

Sadly stored outside for a bit but should clean up ok, 100+ years old. Everything on it is heavy as f**k, The oven door is 15mm thick cast steel.




Stashed it to one side and ill look at that in the future.

Thanks for reading!!