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i think a test drive is in order! the 1.6 16v i borrwed the opther day was bad but didnt know if the Cup models were better

Im very tall (about 65") but have had 2 mk1 clios before, main thing putting me off buying a 172 cup or 182 cup is going back to that nasty high driving position. had anyone successfully fitted aftrer market seats to thier 172 cup (no airbag) or has the reacro option in thier 182? Is the 182...

Been away from clios for a while since selling the last Williams but reading about the 182 is making me seriously think about coming back. My questions are- 1-What is the cheapest way of getting a 182 with Cup pack? 2-How much? 3-Do imports have the full 3yr warranty? 4-How much % is friends...

my scorpion is a silenced pipe (or very small box - about 3" diameter) Will try and get a mate to ru the emissions test on it prior to parting with £30!

Ive got a scorpion de-cat on my williams 3 - whats tha chances of it scraping throught he emissions test? (aside from the fact its post 1992 and should have one) Ive heard from my mechanic thats various sprty cars he has had sail through the MOT without the cat

Just to confirm this is my exact problem - I beleiev the renault price new is arounf 180quid

yes thats it mate - any ideas on a quick fix?

I need a new power steering pump (loud knocking when cold rather then the usuall whine) Im planning to try and source a second hand pump but can anyone tell me if they are all the same? i.e 16v will do? R19 16v? RT with power steering? any help much appreciated

Ive never quite grasped the concept of bumpstops - i know what they do but are they not included wthin the strut? Northern what was the parts cost for the work you have done? was it all the parts mentioned on both sides? thanks in advance

just been on the phone to renault - for my exact oval plate number there are at least 6 differnt colour springs it could be! nothing is easy with the cars is it! I need to ring my mechanic and see what colour i got currently Cheers for the offer mat but i think new is the only option given...

i thought they had both been replaced when i bought it but it appears the nearside front spring has broken on my williams menaing proably only one was replaced - anyone know where the cheapest place to buy one is? do Euro/GSF supply the correct one? thanks in advance

i need a low temp Fan switch in a hurry so cant wait for BB/ktec etc to deliver, is there another car that uses the same fitment switch with a lower cut in temp? i need to be able to get it by tomorrow lunchtime so need a definite model to ask for! anyone know what the cut in temps are as...

its a stupid question because i have been doing this for years in various places but where is the best place to jack when using a trolley jack? i hate using the sill but other areas on the front are a bit out the way

dont buy them - they dont fit althought they are listed they are actually too small - just thought it might help a few people in the future

its gone now in favour of a scorpion stainless - was annoying as feck! just weighing up my options pre-MOT

worth paying someone to take thier time, a quick fit lad might do it in tnen mins for a tenner but its a time consuming job making sure it clear everything and osent knowck (proably will anyway!) also it need a shim on the last joint as the slits line up making it blow, bit of thin metal unde...

King will have paid more having dont it bit by bit but my estimate for getting it done in one hit is as follows - (very roughly) Parts Labour Rear shocks £80 £15 Front shocks £90 £100 Front springs £90 inc. above Top mounts £15 inc. above Track rods £30...

took the cat off my williams for a de-cat and the middle bits are rattling around fairly noisily, if i put it back on for MOT will the rattling make it fail? (even if the emissions dont?)

a mate cracked the sump on his F7R megan doing a jump over a hump backed bridge! it was repaired instiu and didnt cause any further problems they are simple devices but expensive to replace no doubt if you want the proper baffled williams one

to add wood to the fire - it could be a williams engne still running on the standard chip - this would want resolving ASAP, best way is to check the engine number plate, its under the inlet manifold on the throttle body side the first number on the top line will be either F7P or F7R

sounds promising then - ill post the reply when its done

im getting my cambelt and water pump done on my williams done next week, i got the pump from euro today and it states clio diesel 1.9 on the side (amongst other things), im guessing its OK as the block/crank is the same but can anyone confirm? im a bit worried because the Cat gasket they...

mines on 112k and rising rapidly the one with the rebuild website is over 300K and was rebuilt at 210k without much problems remeber its effectivly a diesel engine in section!

rocker cover and wheels are fairly easy DIY painting jobs

king - any chance of relaying what Paul said so everyone can benefit from it? also might save paul a few phone calls

Ive got various buzzs and rattles from the exhaust of my Williams, the cat back im happy with but ive not removed the front pipe or manifold on a 16v/williams before and i want to know how hard it is?? reason im thinking of removing it all is so i can re-fit everything perfect with new gaskets...

yes from bristol and the belt needs doing on time rather then mileage. this is the 3rd belt ive had done on a 16v/williams and im using up all my favours. first two i paid 100 quid plus belt but they are not willing to do it again!

I’m struggling to find a likely candidate to change my cam belt and I’m weighing up the pro’s and cons of trying it myself, My limited knowledge suggests it’s a matter of supporting the engine via trolley jack block of wood on the sump, removing the big mount on the left, loosening the others...

fitted load some new valves because of that, iots possible to get the valve to twist round befor the cap will more, probably not glue just the reaction between the two metal (alloy/steel) even saw some with that have retaining bolts!! terrible things

just sent a big PM but inbox full so I lost it!! Crack appears on the manifold just before the flange at the joint with the front pipe. I was told it could be welded insitu but looking at it I think it would be worth taking the time to remove it because its pretty tight.