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Just thought I would add my experience as it might help as I had similar symptoms as you. My phase 1 172 has had vague steering for a while with a dead feeling when driving straight. After replacing everything, track rod ends, top mounts, wishbone mounts, rack mounts, steering rack the only...

Hi Tom I've seen your car around Leam before, wondered if you were a member. My wife has my silver ph172 now so if you see her give her a wave as she is usually around Leam and Warwick. cheers Mark

Hi mate Thanks for the flyer. Its typical the one time the wife and lad go out in my car they get spotted, whilst I was stuck in renovating the Bathroom!!! That reminds me I must renew my membership. cheers Mark, Jenny & Harry

Do a google search for primo pdf which is a free program which allows you to print to pdf from any version of autocad, very useful.

Buy the aux belt kit with the new tensioner pulley and spring. As the tensioner usually go dry and noisey and as your doing it there worth changing for the extra cost in parts.

Whining noise is usually caused by the tensioners on the aux belt wearing out.

Just done my cambelt+tensioners, aux belt+tensioners+spring and water pump this weekend. Not too difficult just lack of space. The locking tools are pretty cheap compared to the other parts and it was well worth the saving over a main dealer. Get the copy of the 172 manual which is kicking...

JLO Justin-172 Rhys182 taylor TheJesus Middo Craig172. Garf172 Day RichMcc fUbAr (ish) 172_girl E-ray_172 BarrySX Steve2004 Eskiisbest RacerStu Mach10 nockmeister MarkLD

Many thanks, very useful

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-071-HT Better card for not much more money

Do the pads yourself as its an easy job. Dealers really are a complete rip off.

100mm brick, 50mm insulation, 50mm clear cavity, 100mm block. Have a look at www.celotex.co.uk for insulation details. Remember to include cavity closers on your plan. Your boss sounds like a tool, is it too much trouble to just tell you what he wants?

If your engine is in good condition then there is no reason why a small shot of N20 shouldn't be used, if a controller is used then a larger shot can be used. http://www.noswizard.com/ have a read here to find out more.

There is a connector behind the passenger side headlight/wheel arch shield that splits the feed into two for the foglights which usually corrodes, I would start there first making sure its rust free and a firm connection.

Its a Vauxhall 2.0lt 16v XE on throttle bodies, and thank you Im a big fan of the new mini, there just a little overpriced for my liking, hence the 172 being a better choice

Not gone down the 1/4 mile yet, Im planning on taking it along to the mini showdown in July and giving it a try but I want to get the nitrous system sorted first.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/Unfinished%20Dash.jpghttp://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/Engine%20bay%20side.jpg [Edited by MarkLD on 05 June 2005 at 10:54pm]

Nice Mini Jamiec, is it one of the last 500 made? Just got mine on the road again but its rained everyday since:( http://www.16vminiclub.com/gallery/albums/userpics/Front%20Side%20Low%20046.jpg [Edited by MarkLD on 04 June 2005 at 12:12am] [Edited by MarkLD on 04 June 2005 at 12:12am]

Hi Harryr34 I had the exact same problem with my car, renault would only sell me the whole regulator which was about £170 but all that was broken was 2ps worth of plastic clips. Unfortunately I had to buy it as I needed the car back on the road and secure. The regulator is the motor,channel...

Were you in a hurry to get home, lol

There is a bit about the 911 crash here : http://www.nurburgring.org.uk/trip_reports/trip39/index.htmlhttp://www.nurburgring.org.uk/trip_reports/trip39/index.html towards the end of the report. Also a nice picture reference to Cliosport

Had the same problem, oil temp gauge didnt work but oil level did, changed the combined sensor and job done. Can be done from underneath car without removing much, think I just removed battery and airfilter for a better view

From what I can remember you need to lift it out from the top. Remove Battery, air filter, gearbox mounts, coil pack (dissy cap+ leads), water pump, hoses,driveshaft, starter motor, plastic arch liners. You will also have to drop the gearbox side of the subframe to get enough clearance and...

Do you mean the heat shield that goes over the end of the starter motor? It is attached iirc to the Y shaped bracket that mounts to the back of the block, attached by two 10mm bolts with built in washers. Hope this helps Mark

Its about 50mm long by 30mm diameter with a threaded union going into the block and a blade teminal sticking out the top. The wire runs around the water pump side of the head and is P clipped to the back of the block, in the same loom as the starter motor and Lambda sensor. Make sure you do the...

Sender is on the exhaust side of motor (cambelt end) about 100mm up from the block/sump flange. Its on a small ledge and is connected by a single blade connection so it could easily be broken or corroded. I think the sender is about £40/50 from Renault. Its possible to do the job from underneath...

From what I remember there is a speed sensor on the cable just behind the speedo which I assume the ECU takes data from, so that could be your problem

BenR It was Renault that released the V6 with its terrible handling, TWR tried to tell them before it was released but they were ignored as they didnt want to spend the money. Thats why TWR did the revamped geometry for the phase 2

Could be worn crank, mine had a slight rumble which I couldnt pin point until I rebuilt the motor, whats your oil pressure like?

Have discussed things further and there is also a chance it could be a development car for the Mk2, which could mean it has some of the latest changes. If you could pm the reg and some photos then I will hopefully be able to tell you more. Take photos of any ID marks, any stickers, etc