Haha yeah I was never going to get a gospel number. I know it's around 205bhp from a previous dyno. Was just good to compare three cars on the same day.
ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Martin's Track Clio 182 Project Thread
Haha yeah I was never going to get a gospel number. I know it's around 205bhp from a previous dyno. Was just good to compare three cars on the same day.
Power 2 Weight Shootout - RESULTS
I was pleasantly surprised to hear that my Clio came out at the top in the n/a catagory!
Richards Ph1 finished off the n/a podium with a third place. @GrahamS cup also managed to sneak a 5th position. So all in all it was a good result for the frenchies.
Some snips from the blog:
Full write up here from @trackobsession
http://www.trackobsession.co.uk/power-2-weight-shootout-2018
I was pleasantly surprised to hear that my Clio came out at the top in the n/a catagory!
Richards Ph1 finished off the n/a podium with a third place. @GrahamS cup also managed to sneak a 5th position. So all in all it was a good result for the frenchies.
Some snips from the blog:
Full write up here from @trackobsession
http://www.trackobsession.co.uk/power-2-weight-shootout-2018
Last edited:
Snetterton
The poor car hasn't seen much action this year as I managed to f**k my back up and have been struggling with that since the end of March
Anyway, we did actually take the cars to Snetterton at the end of March. It was a horribly wet and greasy though unfortunately, which put a downer on the whole day.
A short film from that day here, courtesy of Graham.
The poor car hasn't seen much action this year as I managed to f**k my back up and have been struggling with that since the end of March
Anyway, we did actually take the cars to Snetterton at the end of March. It was a horribly wet and greasy though unfortunately, which put a downer on the whole day.
A short film from that day here, courtesy of Graham.
Last edited:
Brands Hatch
Last night I took the car to Brands Hatch for an evening session with MSVT. @Richie rich and @GrahamS came along for the show. @masekwm also managed to book on last mintute and brought his 172 Turbo. I think Graham got a few photos and videos on his camera so I'll post them up when they arrive.
It was another great evening at Brands with great weather. The car performed faultlessly all evening. The new AD08R tyres are noticeably softer than my old R888s were, so body roll through the corners seems to have increased. Tyre temps were monitored all evening and they wore very evenly which was a good thing.
Oil temps held nicely around the 110 degrees mark so the oil cooler is working a treat still.
Oh and the car is MOT'd for another year ?
Last night I took the car to Brands Hatch for an evening session with MSVT. @Richie rich and @GrahamS came along for the show. @masekwm also managed to book on last mintute and brought his 172 Turbo. I think Graham got a few photos and videos on his camera so I'll post them up when they arrive.
It was another great evening at Brands with great weather. The car performed faultlessly all evening. The new AD08R tyres are noticeably softer than my old R888s were, so body roll through the corners seems to have increased. Tyre temps were monitored all evening and they wore very evenly which was a good thing.
Oil temps held nicely around the 110 degrees mark so the oil cooler is working a treat still.
Oh and the car is MOT'd for another year ?
I've not updated this in ages so I thought I better get something down whilst I have a chance.
Anyway, after 5 years of track abuse the belts were due, and the engine was slightly low on compression so a plan was desperately needed. So after much thought and many delay tactics, Graham finally convinced me to change direction with the car.
It's now in the process of a more OEM+ clubsport style build, with the addition of a small snail. Hopefully it'll make me want to venture away from Brands Hatch more often. I'd love to take it back to the Ring for a proper trackday and to Spa!
Everything is being done at weekends in our spare time, so it's a slow process but it's being done to an extremely high quality finish, mainly by the very thorough @GrahamS with me as cheif tea maker! There are absolutely no corners being cut here!
Bundles of parts have been purchased over the last couple of months, and I have recently parted with the beloved ITBs and CatCams.
End aim is a VERY reliable and solid 230-240bhp. With some comforts added back inside.
I'll add some pictures on here when I can but if you want live updates of our weekly car shenanigans then it's probably best to follow us on Instagram. @trackit_yt
View attachment 1419461
Anyway, after 5 years of track abuse the belts were due, and the engine was slightly low on compression so a plan was desperately needed. So after much thought and many delay tactics, Graham finally convinced me to change direction with the car.
It's now in the process of a more OEM+ clubsport style build, with the addition of a small snail. Hopefully it'll make me want to venture away from Brands Hatch more often. I'd love to take it back to the Ring for a proper trackday and to Spa!
Everything is being done at weekends in our spare time, so it's a slow process but it's being done to an extremely high quality finish, mainly by the very thorough @GrahamS with me as cheif tea maker! There are absolutely no corners being cut here!
Bundles of parts have been purchased over the last couple of months, and I have recently parted with the beloved ITBs and CatCams.
End aim is a VERY reliable and solid 230-240bhp. With some comforts added back inside.
I'll add some pictures on here when I can but if you want live updates of our weekly car shenanigans then it's probably best to follow us on Instagram. @trackit_yt
View attachment 1419461
Last edited:
I hate following builds on Instagram and Facebook as it's just pictures, so please keep it updated on here as well. 
I hate following builds on Instagram and Facebook as it's just pictures, so please keep it updated on here as well.
Noted
Although it is just so much easier to take photos as you go and upload instantly onto insta!
Graham wasn't happy with how some of the wiring sat under the dash so we proceeded to take the entier loom out so he could work his magic.
He used bits from three different looms and intergrated the aftermarket parts (oil gauge, shift light, EPAS) into the standard loom. He then put superseal connectors on it all so it's very easy to unplug when needed and remove the dash quickly.
This is how the car looked before we pulled the loom out.
Whilst Graham was loving life playing wires in the sun and getting frazzled I set about making the interior of the car nicer. First step was some new sound deadening.
It's worth noting what an incredible difference the sound deadening has made on the roof panel. It has gone from flappy and tinny to solid again.
He used bits from three different looms and intergrated the aftermarket parts (oil gauge, shift light, EPAS) into the standard loom. He then put superseal connectors on it all so it's very easy to unplug when needed and remove the dash quickly.
This is how the car looked before we pulled the loom out.
Whilst Graham was loving life playing wires in the sun and getting frazzled I set about making the interior of the car nicer. First step was some new sound deadening.
It's worth noting what an incredible difference the sound deadening has made on the roof panel. It has gone from flappy and tinny to solid again.
Last edited:
We've salvaged lots of interior parts from a couple of different breaker cars in recently.
Next was the bulkhead insulation which was in surpriginsly good nick. Then the dashboard frame.
The loom was ready to mock up.
Then after a lot of fiddling and cutting, the underlay and carpets went back in.
This is how the car looks as of now. We are very happy with how it's coming together.
5 years ago I stored my original headlining in the loft, so we also got that down and managed to get it back into the car over the cage.
The rear of the car is pretty much done now, apart from a few little clips here and there. I'll try and get some more photos this weekend.
Next was the bulkhead insulation which was in surpriginsly good nick. Then the dashboard frame.
The loom was ready to mock up.
Then after a lot of fiddling and cutting, the underlay and carpets went back in.
This is how the car looks as of now. We are very happy with how it's coming together.
5 years ago I stored my original headlining in the loft, so we also got that down and managed to get it back into the car over the cage.
The rear of the car is pretty much done now, apart from a few little clips here and there. I'll try and get some more photos this weekend.
Last edited:
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
He's a clever fucker that Graham!
Haha he certainly is.
GrahamS
ClioSport Club Member
335d
Mart's hit the nail on the head when he says we're doing this to an extremely high standard. Everything has been researched to an inch of it's life to make sure it's going to be perfect when done. The majority of what's going on in the engine bay has been recorded so we're hoping to put out an interesting series of videos when it's all finished and working.
Whilst some of you might be reading this and thinking it's not that big a project, when you're being this extensive with parts choice and making sure it's right, everything moves at a slow pace. Even sourcing some items took several weeks which is pretty rare in the Clio world. We've been working on the car now for 4 months and it's finally starting to come together. I'll leave the spec to Mart but there's a big spreadsheet keeping track of everything.
Last look of the car with bodies on
Engine coming out a couple of hours later
Several weeks later we took it apart
The dash loom had previously been stripped of all un-needed components so rectification was in order. I had a DCI 80 dash loom in my loft so set about adapting it for the 182. We needed to ensure the fuel pump wiring was present and add in cruise control. One of the key requirements for this build is to make it better to drive to tracks and so cruise was a must have. I designed an extremely simple PCB board and had a few made. In hindsight I specified the incorrect resistors (0603) and should have gone at least double the size so we'll see how long this one lasts. I also mis-labelled a 5v wire as 12v. It cost less than £2 to make and pending it's testing I plan to make a 3d printed enclosure for it. You may wonder why a PCB is needed and it is of course to create a replacement for the factory buttons. I've also adapted the original radio stalk to correctly function as a set of cruise control buttons. This required the breaking and making of a few connections in the stalk which was pretty fiddly but it seems to be working as intended when tested with a multimeter. The top two buttons are cancel and the bottom is resume. Plus and minus work as you would expect.
The loom is parts of the original 182 loom put into a dci 80 loom with another 182 dash loom for spare pins. It's been converted to run manual heating instead of climate control and has a number of 12v outputs for powering go pros the gauge and shift light. The idea of the loom is that, like the factory design, it is a standalone item and can easily be disconnected from other components. We removed unnecessary wiring like surplus airbags and the radio so it's as light weight as it can with all the creature comforts required.
Whilst some of you might be reading this and thinking it's not that big a project, when you're being this extensive with parts choice and making sure it's right, everything moves at a slow pace. Even sourcing some items took several weeks which is pretty rare in the Clio world. We've been working on the car now for 4 months and it's finally starting to come together. I'll leave the spec to Mart but there's a big spreadsheet keeping track of everything.
Last look of the car with bodies on
Engine coming out a couple of hours later
Several weeks later we took it apart
The dash loom had previously been stripped of all un-needed components so rectification was in order. I had a DCI 80 dash loom in my loft so set about adapting it for the 182. We needed to ensure the fuel pump wiring was present and add in cruise control. One of the key requirements for this build is to make it better to drive to tracks and so cruise was a must have. I designed an extremely simple PCB board and had a few made. In hindsight I specified the incorrect resistors (0603) and should have gone at least double the size so we'll see how long this one lasts. I also mis-labelled a 5v wire as 12v. It cost less than £2 to make and pending it's testing I plan to make a 3d printed enclosure for it. You may wonder why a PCB is needed and it is of course to create a replacement for the factory buttons. I've also adapted the original radio stalk to correctly function as a set of cruise control buttons. This required the breaking and making of a few connections in the stalk which was pretty fiddly but it seems to be working as intended when tested with a multimeter. The top two buttons are cancel and the bottom is resume. Plus and minus work as you would expect.
The loom is parts of the original 182 loom put into a dci 80 loom with another 182 dash loom for spare pins. It's been converted to run manual heating instead of climate control and has a number of 12v outputs for powering go pros the gauge and shift light. The idea of the loom is that, like the factory design, it is a standalone item and can easily be disconnected from other components. We removed unnecessary wiring like surplus airbags and the radio so it's as light weight as it can with all the creature comforts required.
GrahamS
ClioSport Club Member
335d
Due to the use of an OMEX with the throttle body kit several dash lights had been removed. They've all be re-soldered in and systems like ESP and unnecessary airbags will be programmed out using CLIP. Whilst it's all apart an LED dash conversion has been carried out to make all LEDs white and displays red, bringing the car into the 21st century.
As you've seen above the interior is now nearly done with the carpet and sound deadening carefully cut around the cage and seat rails. There are only a small few things left to do on the interior before we can consider it done and move on to grubbier things in the engine bay!
As Mart has already alluded to we generally work on the cars weekly so if you want to see what's going on give us a follow @ trackit_yt
That said project threads are not going anywhere so the detail of how things were done can be shared for future reference. TTFN
As you've seen above the interior is now nearly done with the carpet and sound deadening carefully cut around the cage and seat rails. There are only a small few things left to do on the interior before we can consider it done and move on to grubbier things in the engine bay!
As Mart has already alluded to we generally work on the cars weekly so if you want to see what's going on give us a follow @ trackit_yt
That said project threads are not going anywhere so the detail of how things were done can be shared for future reference. TTFN
GrahamS
ClioSport Club Member
335d
So many details!!! ?I hate following builds on Instagram and Facebook as it's just pictures, so please keep it updated on here as well.
I like your style ?
I thought it was about time I updated this again.
Sorting out my engine was dragging on, so I picked up a freshly built standard spec engine with ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs and supertech valves.
When it was home we quickly got it onto the stand and started putting all the bits back on.
Sorting out my engine was dragging on, so I picked up a freshly built standard spec engine with ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs and supertech valves.
When it was home we quickly got it onto the stand and started putting all the bits back on.
It was now time to start putting the turbo side of things together
The turbo log manifold went on with the standard Renault hardware. Then the sexy inconel studs from Black Cat Motorsport. Followed by a chunky copper gasket from Slide Motorsport.
The turbine housing went on next with the core loosly attached ready for clocking. This was held to the manifold with some high temp Knuts and heico lock washers. We decided to use the standard Nissan gasket here in the end, as it was copper and a lot thicker than the one from M.A.D.
The Engine Dynamics V-Band flange went on next. We re-used the standard S15 hardware here as they are also inconel and obviously perfectly suited.
The compressor housing followed shortly afterwards as well as some Mamba inlet and outlet air flanges.
Because we had clocked the core of the turbo, the wastegate actuator arm didn't line up with the mechanism anymore. But after lots of bashing and bending Graham quickly sorted that issue.
Then the Engine Dynamics downpipe was ready to go on
We had to adjust the core a little more after this to get good passage for the turbo plumbing lines.
The turbo log manifold went on with the standard Renault hardware. Then the sexy inconel studs from Black Cat Motorsport. Followed by a chunky copper gasket from Slide Motorsport.
The turbine housing went on next with the core loosly attached ready for clocking. This was held to the manifold with some high temp Knuts and heico lock washers. We decided to use the standard Nissan gasket here in the end, as it was copper and a lot thicker than the one from M.A.D.
The Engine Dynamics V-Band flange went on next. We re-used the standard S15 hardware here as they are also inconel and obviously perfectly suited.
The compressor housing followed shortly afterwards as well as some Mamba inlet and outlet air flanges.
Because we had clocked the core of the turbo, the wastegate actuator arm didn't line up with the mechanism anymore. But after lots of bashing and bending Graham quickly sorted that issue.
Then the Engine Dynamics downpipe was ready to go on
We had to adjust the core a little more after this to get good passage for the turbo plumbing lines.
Last edited:
After lots of bashing and swearing the engine was home. We had to take off the spider to get better access but we got there in the end.
The driveshafts went back on and the box was filled up with some fresh honey.
I then tackled a few of the smaller jobs like the gear gaiter.
Then I spent hours fiddling around with the seats and different positions! Hours I tell you. A little too far back in this picture.
Our new rads arrived recently too.
This is how the car was left. The list of jobs is getting smaller but there's still plenty to do.
Until next time.
The driveshafts went back on and the box was filled up with some fresh honey.
I then tackled a few of the smaller jobs like the gear gaiter.
Then I spent hours fiddling around with the seats and different positions! Hours I tell you. A little too far back in this picture.
Our new rads arrived recently too.
This is how the car was left. The list of jobs is getting smaller but there's still plenty to do.
Until next time.
Krarl
ClioSport Club Member
Just spent the last hour or so reading the whole thread!
The work done to the car is bob on and clearly done to a meticulous OCD standard!! ?
The work done to the car is bob on and clearly done to a meticulous OCD standard!! ?
GrahamS
ClioSport Club Member
335d
Just a few little bits to add.
The gt2560 is a water cooled turbo which will add heat into the cooling system. We've tried to compensate for this in three ways:
As you've also seen in previous posts we've done a fair bit of wiring work. This involved tidying up the cut off switch area a bit to keep it on theme with the more OEM original interior. We've replaced what was a hanging out fuse holder with a radio blank and durite panel fuse holder. This allows the central locking to work but any greater power draw to blow the fuse. This means we've finally been able to get power back in the car and test a good portion of the SMDs we changed over. Touch wood they're all working and look brilliant. Now the car has an OEM set of ECUs a bit of playing is required on CLIP to turn off the ESP and airbag lights.
This build uses an AEM FIC 8 30-1930. The only benefit over the FIC 6 is the electronic boost control controlled via an 3 way mac valve. Whilst you could run a separate boost controller, having the boost control referencing live ECU data is far superior. As the car has previously had an OMEX standalone ECU quite a bit of wiring was required on the ecu plug to reattach the OEM wires and splice in the AEM. The AEM was previously fitted to a V8 AMG which used a fair amount more wiring than the Clio whereas now we're only using 15 pins. Although I don't have any pics to hand, after much searching, we've gone for a Delphi bulkhead grommet which which allows a fair amount of wire for the piggyback to pass through the firewall without risking leaks, keeping it OEM and insulating the cabin from noise.
As Mart said, we've got a few things left to do on the car but we've also made huge progress over the past few weeks, have worked late a few nights after work and it's very satisfying to see the end in sight. When the bodies were fitted the person who did it wasn't exactly proud of their work, chopping a few wires mid loom and not protecting the ends. We now need to correct this hence the large wiring list below!
The main things left to do are:
Other than that, door cards are now in and the car has Cup front glass. We are still trying to make videos but the reality of this build is that we now want it finished and with the year evaporating and life calling we're all about getting the car done now, fitting in filming when possible instead of it being a priority. That said, there should still be some good content at the end
The gt2560 is a water cooled turbo which will add heat into the cooling system. We've tried to compensate for this in three ways:
- Fitting a 197 thrermostat which opens at a lower 75 degrees
- Clocking the turbo. The clocking is to better aid the natural convection current created in the cooling system when the engine is switched off as explained HERE. Whilst we weren't able to achieve 20 degrees on the stand, because of the engines natural tilt back we are very close. You can see the mark on the turbine housing which is 20 degrees. We did slightly rotate the turbo back from here to access one of the turbine housing bolts.
- Fitting the biggest rad possible. The cup Direnza rad is marginally bigger than the non-cup version and about 50% bigger than a standard one.
As you've also seen in previous posts we've done a fair bit of wiring work. This involved tidying up the cut off switch area a bit to keep it on theme with the more OEM original interior. We've replaced what was a hanging out fuse holder with a radio blank and durite panel fuse holder. This allows the central locking to work but any greater power draw to blow the fuse. This means we've finally been able to get power back in the car and test a good portion of the SMDs we changed over. Touch wood they're all working and look brilliant. Now the car has an OEM set of ECUs a bit of playing is required on CLIP to turn off the ESP and airbag lights.
This build uses an AEM FIC 8 30-1930. The only benefit over the FIC 6 is the electronic boost control controlled via an 3 way mac valve. Whilst you could run a separate boost controller, having the boost control referencing live ECU data is far superior. As the car has previously had an OMEX standalone ECU quite a bit of wiring was required on the ecu plug to reattach the OEM wires and splice in the AEM. The AEM was previously fitted to a V8 AMG which used a fair amount more wiring than the Clio whereas now we're only using 15 pins. Although I don't have any pics to hand, after much searching, we've gone for a Delphi bulkhead grommet which which allows a fair amount of wire for the piggyback to pass through the firewall without risking leaks, keeping it OEM and insulating the cabin from noise.
As Mart said, we've got a few things left to do on the car but we've also made huge progress over the past few weeks, have worked late a few nights after work and it's very satisfying to see the end in sight. When the bodies were fitted the person who did it wasn't exactly proud of their work, chopping a few wires mid loom and not protecting the ends. We now need to correct this hence the large wiring list below!
The main things left to do are:
- Fuel pump
- Wire back in: map sensor, carbon canister resistor, throttle body plug, shift light, fan,
- Tidy up a few interior bits
- Boost solenoid (wiring, hoses and bracket
- Relocate clutch cable
- Turbo oil feed/drain
- Turbo coolant lines
- Intercooler piping
- Relocate oil cooler
- Secure exhaust
- Reassemble front suspension
Other than that, door cards are now in and the car has Cup front glass. We are still trying to make videos but the reality of this build is that we now want it finished and with the year evaporating and life calling we're all about getting the car done now, fitting in filming when possible instead of it being a priority. That said, there should still be some good content at the end
Last edited:
You'd be surprised!! It's getting there though.
Haha!! Yeah there are some serious OCD issues in here!! My brain certainly isn't normal.
Just a few little bits to add.
View attachment 1427810View attachment 1427811View attachment 1427812
The gt2560 is a water cooled turbo which will add heat into the cooling system. We've tried to compensate for this in three ways:
- Fitting a 197 thrermostat which opens at a lower 75 degrees
- Clocking the turbo. The clocking is to better aid the natural convection current created in the cooling system when the engine is switched off as explained HERE. Whilst we weren't able to achieve 20 degrees on the stand, because of the engines natural tilt back we are very close. You can see the mark on the turbine housing which is 20 degrees. We did slightly rotate the turbo back from here to access one of the turbine housing bolts.
- Fitting the biggest rad possible. The cup Direnza rad is marginally bigger than the non-cup version and about 50% bigger than a standard one.
View attachment 1427809
As you've also seen in previous posts we've done a fair bit of wiring work. This involved tidying up the cut off switch area a bit to keep it on theme with the more OEM original interior. We've replaced what was a hanging out fuse holder with a radio blank and durite panel fuse holder. This allows the central locking to work but any greater power draw to blow the fuse. This means we've finally been able to get power back in the car and test a good portion of the SMDs we changed over. Touch wood they're all working and look brilliant. Now the car has an OEM set of ECUs a bit of playing is required on CLIP to turn off the ESP and airbag lights.
View attachment 1427814
This build uses an AEM FIC 8 30-1930. The only benefit over the FIC 6 is the electronic boost control controlled via an 3 way mac valve. Whilst you could run a separate boost controller, having the boost control referencing live ECU data is far superior. As the car has previously had an OMEX standalone ECU quite a bit of wiring was required on the ecu plug to reattach the OEM wires and splice in the AEM. The AEM was previously fitted to a V8 AMG which used a fair amount more wiring than the Clio whereas now we're only using 15 pins. Although I don't have any pics to hand, after much searching, we've gone for a Delphi bulkhead grommet which which allows a fair amount of wire for the piggyback to pass through the firewall without risking leaks, keeping it OEM and insulating the cabin from noise.
View attachment 1427808View attachment 1427807
As Mart said, we've got a few things left to do on the car but we've also made huge progress over the past few weeks, have worked late a few nights after work and it's very satisfying to see the end in sight. When the bodies were fitted the person who did it wasn't exactly proud of their work, chopping a few wires mid loom and not protecting the ends. We now need to correct this hence the large wiring list below!
The main things left to do are:
Here's a pic of the clutch cable how it currently sits.
- Fuel pump
- Wire back in: map sensor, carbon canister resistor, throttle body plug, shift light, fan,
- Tidy up a few interior bits
- Boost solenoid (wiring, hoses and bracket
- Relocate clutch cable
- Turbo oil feed/drain
- Turbo coolant lines
- Intercooler piping
- Relocate oil cooler
- Secure exhaust
- Reassemble front suspension
View attachment 1427805
Other than that, door cards are now in and the car has Cup front glass. We are still trying to make videos but the reality of this build is that we now want it finished and with the year evaporating and life calling we're all about getting the car done now, fitting in filming when possible instead of it being a priority. That said, there should still be some good content at the end
Lovely detail there of things I missed. Cheers G
Photos are just a tiny bit better than mine too !
We then spent an age cutting and shaping the new heatshielding before finally letting it rest in place. This should have really been done before the engine was in, it would have been a hell of a lot easier. But who doesn't like a challenge
It now wraps right around the brake fluid reservoir and covers the brake lines better.
The light finally lost us so Graham had to bust out his new head torch to get the intercooler mock fitted.
Until next time
It now wraps right around the brake fluid reservoir and covers the brake lines better.
The light finally lost us so Graham had to bust out his new head torch to get the intercooler mock fitted.
Until next time
We also secured the intercooler after blasting it out with an air line and made a start with the boost pipe kit from Engine Dynamics.
The boost pipes seem to be VERY tight under and behind the TB, potentially rubbing. Has anyone else encountered this and got any tips? We were just mock fitting so they haven't been secured properly yet though,
Any tips could be very helpful when we try to get them secured in for good.
The boost pipes seem to be VERY tight under and behind the TB, potentially rubbing. Has anyone else encountered this and got any tips? We were just mock fitting so they haven't been secured properly yet though,
Any tips could be very helpful when we try to get them secured in for good.
The seats are also finally back in for good. This took absolutely hours and hours of fiddling to get them to sit in a good position. The motorsport rails were welded in with a non standardised bolt spacing which meant it was a disaster trying to get something off the shelf to fit. So we ended borrowing some slider rails from Alex White and modifying them to fit, after paying him for them of course.
The seats were also mounted straight to the motorsport rails too, so they were pretty much flat on the floor, which didn't give the best position! Now they are a little higher and tilted back a lot more to give a suitable bent knee when resting on the pedals. The sliders obviously allow a tiny bit of movement back and forth if needed too.
This job has been a huge burden on my shoulders so to finally get it done is a big relief! I had planned to get the car over to Select Motorsport for some custom side mounts if this didn't work. But even getting the car over there and back would have been a big operation on its own.
The seats were also mounted straight to the motorsport rails too, so they were pretty much flat on the floor, which didn't give the best position! Now they are a little higher and tilted back a lot more to give a suitable bent knee when resting on the pedals. The sliders obviously allow a tiny bit of movement back and forth if needed too.
This job has been a huge burden on my shoulders so to finally get it done is a big relief! I had planned to get the car over to Select Motorsport for some custom side mounts if this didn't work. But even getting the car over there and back would have been a big operation on its own.
A bit more progress this weekend with the car. Lots of fiddling and faffing!
We re-made the turbo oil feed line on Friday eve as the previous one was a bit dodgy on the olive joint. Then on Sat I fed her some Millers running-in oil and we got the engine started for the first time. After our specific start up routine it fired into life perfeclty without any issues. Although it was nerve racking turning the key for the first time!
We've got a slight issue with the alignment of the link pipe and decat to sort out. At the moment the cat gasket seems way off line but we've been told the link pipe may have been cut and angled differently for the previous owner of it. So hopefully a new link pipe from Engine Dynamics will sort this problem out.
I also spent ages removing the old PMS studs and cleaning out the threads. These were absolutely SOLID and had been on the car for at least 4 years through all the elements!
The new items were secured in place with the supplied loctite and torqued to 20nm.
The discs have a little surface rust but it's to be expected considering the car hasn't moved since January!!
I'm in talks with Andy at Engine Dynamics now to sort out a date for running in and mapping
We re-made the turbo oil feed line on Friday eve as the previous one was a bit dodgy on the olive joint. Then on Sat I fed her some Millers running-in oil and we got the engine started for the first time. After our specific start up routine it fired into life perfeclty without any issues. Although it was nerve racking turning the key for the first time!
We've got a slight issue with the alignment of the link pipe and decat to sort out. At the moment the cat gasket seems way off line but we've been told the link pipe may have been cut and angled differently for the previous owner of it. So hopefully a new link pipe from Engine Dynamics will sort this problem out.
I also spent ages removing the old PMS studs and cleaning out the threads. These were absolutely SOLID and had been on the car for at least 4 years through all the elements!
The new items were secured in place with the supplied loctite and torqued to 20nm.
The discs have a little surface rust but it's to be expected considering the car hasn't moved since January!!
I'm in talks with Andy at Engine Dynamics now to sort out a date for running in and mapping
frayz
ClioSport Club Member
Same old faces
Great project Martin
Great project Martin
GrahamS
ClioSport Club Member
335d
Graham’s little add on.
The end is definitely in sight now, praise the lord, and we’ve made some brilliant progress over the past few weeks.
As Mart mentioned the engine is now up and running well, making great oil pressure and sounding sweet. We primed the engine thoroughly by turning it over with the coil pack disconnected. Only once we were happy the engine had been sufficiently lubricated did we fire it up. The coolant system was bled and we ran the engine until the thermostat opened and the fan kicked in. Good news is it’s leak free apart from a blow on the cat gasket which the new link pipe should remedy.
The photo above is missing one big thing we ended up fitting before starting for the first time, the oil cooler and associated gauge. Whilst the cooler isn’t fully installed we decided it best to fit so we could use the sandwich plate and properly monitor the oil temp and pressure. Now it’s running well we’ll be finalising the mounting of the cooler to sit behind the o/s grill. The only change in this area from the previous set up is the change of a straight to a 90 degree fitting. The lines appear to be a good length so let’s hope they can stay the same length.
As for the oil feed line it’s made of AN4 Goodridge Series 600 PTFE braided hose with stainless steel fittings. I bought a Torques braid separator for this but the tool was pants and using a pick turned out to be far more effective. For those which haven’t used these fittings before you have to separate the braid from the PFTE inner enough to get an olive on for the compression style fitting.
One thing which does need doing is to make sure pipes and hoses are held a reasonable distance apart. The engine bay is now rather busy even despite major OCD efforts to clip bits where possible. I’m trying to find those twin hose clamps which articulate in the centre if anyone knows a supplier or what they’re called.
The intercooler pipes required a small amount of silicon trimming to fit properly but after a little fettling they’ve shaped up nicely. To get the pipe behind the headlight level motor to fit without rubbing was fun! The sides of the rad cooler ducts in the bumper have been removed to allow for the cooler piping.
Last but not least, once the car is properly running and mapped we’ll need to move the intercooler cooler back be close to the radiator. Although this will be no problem for now there is a possibility for marginally reduced cooling ability as the dirty air from the cooler doesn’t pass through the rad with its normal velocity.
If the next post isn’t mapping I’m burning the car.
The end is definitely in sight now, praise the lord, and we’ve made some brilliant progress over the past few weeks.
As Mart mentioned the engine is now up and running well, making great oil pressure and sounding sweet. We primed the engine thoroughly by turning it over with the coil pack disconnected. Only once we were happy the engine had been sufficiently lubricated did we fire it up. The coolant system was bled and we ran the engine until the thermostat opened and the fan kicked in. Good news is it’s leak free apart from a blow on the cat gasket which the new link pipe should remedy.
The photo above is missing one big thing we ended up fitting before starting for the first time, the oil cooler and associated gauge. Whilst the cooler isn’t fully installed we decided it best to fit so we could use the sandwich plate and properly monitor the oil temp and pressure. Now it’s running well we’ll be finalising the mounting of the cooler to sit behind the o/s grill. The only change in this area from the previous set up is the change of a straight to a 90 degree fitting. The lines appear to be a good length so let’s hope they can stay the same length.
As for the oil feed line it’s made of AN4 Goodridge Series 600 PTFE braided hose with stainless steel fittings. I bought a Torques braid separator for this but the tool was pants and using a pick turned out to be far more effective. For those which haven’t used these fittings before you have to separate the braid from the PFTE inner enough to get an olive on for the compression style fitting.
One thing which does need doing is to make sure pipes and hoses are held a reasonable distance apart. The engine bay is now rather busy even despite major OCD efforts to clip bits where possible. I’m trying to find those twin hose clamps which articulate in the centre if anyone knows a supplier or what they’re called.
The intercooler pipes required a small amount of silicon trimming to fit properly but after a little fettling they’ve shaped up nicely. To get the pipe behind the headlight level motor to fit without rubbing was fun! The sides of the rad cooler ducts in the bumper have been removed to allow for the cooler piping.
Last but not least, once the car is properly running and mapped we’ll need to move the intercooler cooler back be close to the radiator. Although this will be no problem for now there is a possibility for marginally reduced cooling ability as the dirty air from the cooler doesn’t pass through the rad with its normal velocity.
If the next post isn’t mapping I’m burning the car.
We've been doing lots of finishing touches recently. It's been great fun and a solid learning experience, but Graham and I are extremely pleased that this project is coming to an end. We've got his to do next! 🤪
So anyway, a new link pipe was ordered from Andy at Engine Dynamics. This fixed the previous alignment issue on the cat gasket perfectly. You can see the angle difference between the two pipes in this photo. The second hand item had been cut and welded at a custom angle for another system.
New pipe fitted.
The oil catch tank was also re-positioned. It was such a perfect fit it was as if it was meant be there!
Next up was relocating the oil cooler as there is now an intercooler where it used hang out. This took a few hours of fiddling but Graham created a lovely bracket to mount it to the rad and rub-nutted it to the slam panel. We were very happy with how it turned out.
So anyway, a new link pipe was ordered from Andy at Engine Dynamics. This fixed the previous alignment issue on the cat gasket perfectly. You can see the angle difference between the two pipes in this photo. The second hand item had been cut and welded at a custom angle for another system.
New pipe fitted.
The oil catch tank was also re-positioned. It was such a perfect fit it was as if it was meant be there!
Next up was relocating the oil cooler as there is now an intercooler where it used hang out. This took a few hours of fiddling but Graham created a lovely bracket to mount it to the rad and rub-nutted it to the slam panel. We were very happy with how it turned out.
Dave182T
ClioSport Club Member
RB Clio 182 turbo
Quick question/request, how far down doesnt the link pipe and cat pipe sit on this? Ive got the ED Turbo kit and mines was also a pain to line up and seems to sit very low, to the point its streched and burst the centre exhaust hanger.
