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TomoTek - 182 Track Build here we come!...
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
#19
Back, with a few more updates.. I've had a few days off from work and a couple of weekends free to really get some work done. I'll work my way through the updates as I sort and upload some pictures.
As the main fabrication jobs were nearing to an end I started to concentrate on the driver controls. So Pedals/Gearshift/Steering etc..
The first job I did was to refurb the steering rack, and convert it to a non PAS rack.
Here's a few pics of the rack when I removed it from the car whilst originally stripping the car.
There were a few patches of rust on the main casing, the boots were torn, and just generally covered in dirt!...
I stripped all the components and removed all the original PAS hoses.
I then plugged and sealed off the ports/bearings/rack before sandblasting the aluminium housing and wirewheeled the rust of the steel tube.
The original fittings into the aluminium housing were also sandblasted before coutersunk bolt heads were welded to them to form bungs.
Then after a few coats of paint later, the assembly was re-greased and re-assembled ready for the new track rod ends and rubber gaiters to be fitted.
A new aluminium link hose was made to seal the PAS internal piston area and to allow the air to pas between both sides of the piston so as to not create a vaccum within the rack assy. Also the rack mounts were re painted and new Powerflex black series rack mount bushes were fitted.
Next I turned my attention to the pedals.
After driving the car I wasn't that happy with the size and position of the pedals.
I felt the pedal plates were too small and like many people on here have spoken about, they are not positioned ideally for heel/toe
I started by drilling out the existing plate rivets and throwing them in the bin.
I have a set of AP Racing pedal plates that I bought a while ago as part of another pedal box. I drilled holes in the existing pedal plates and welded M6 nuts into the holes so that the new pedal plates sat at the angle I wanted and flush with the existing surface.
I can move the plates left and right at a later date if needed too.
Back, with a few more updates.. I've had a few days off from work and a couple of weekends free to really get some work done. I'll work my way through the updates as I sort and upload some pictures.
As the main fabrication jobs were nearing to an end I started to concentrate on the driver controls. So Pedals/Gearshift/Steering etc..
The first job I did was to refurb the steering rack, and convert it to a non PAS rack.
Here's a few pics of the rack when I removed it from the car whilst originally stripping the car.
There were a few patches of rust on the main casing, the boots were torn, and just generally covered in dirt!...
I stripped all the components and removed all the original PAS hoses.
I then plugged and sealed off the ports/bearings/rack before sandblasting the aluminium housing and wirewheeled the rust of the steel tube.
The original fittings into the aluminium housing were also sandblasted before coutersunk bolt heads were welded to them to form bungs.
Then after a few coats of paint later, the assembly was re-greased and re-assembled ready for the new track rod ends and rubber gaiters to be fitted.
A new aluminium link hose was made to seal the PAS internal piston area and to allow the air to pas between both sides of the piston so as to not create a vaccum within the rack assy. Also the rack mounts were re painted and new Powerflex black series rack mount bushes were fitted.
Next I turned my attention to the pedals.
After driving the car I wasn't that happy with the size and position of the pedals.
I felt the pedal plates were too small and like many people on here have spoken about, they are not positioned ideally for heel/toe
I started by drilling out the existing plate rivets and throwing them in the bin.
I have a set of AP Racing pedal plates that I bought a while ago as part of another pedal box. I drilled holes in the existing pedal plates and welded M6 nuts into the holes so that the new pedal plates sat at the angle I wanted and flush with the existing surface.
I can move the plates left and right at a later date if needed too.
Amg A class, M3 CSL
I've joined the site for ideas and information, I had to comment on your build, I thought I had OCD. I'm doing a similar build and you are one step ahead so I've subscribed to the thread. Great work, nice welding and love how you've done the rear pick ups.
If you can post the weight of the front screen it would be appreciated.
If you can post the weight of the front screen it would be appreciated.
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Hi mate, thanks. Yeah I think that's why the build is taking longer than I thought, my bloody OCD! however I think it's going to be worth it in the end!. Don't want to compromise on quality. Thanks for subscribing :smile: .. Yeah i'll be passing by the garage on Friday so I can weigh the front screen.. I'll weigh the new and old for a comparison, don't think there will be much in it tbh.
Hey Tommo, Cheers, I've seen many ways of sealing the pinion housing and looping the ports on the rack.
The way I did it was to unscrewed all the existing hose assemblies and then sawed the pipes by the fittings to allow the standard fittings to slide off the pipes. Once they were off I welded countersunk screws in the end.
If you don't have a welder you can either buy port bungs with the right thread size (however they are expensive) or you could put the fittings of the bench and fill them with liquid metal or silicon sealant. All you are doing with the 4 fittings on the Pinion housing is to ensure that no dirt of debris goes into the housing, They is no pressure inside so Something as simple as silicon would work. (Just don't put silicon in them while their screwed into the housing, you don't want any going inside and into the bearing.)
Again, the link pipe on the rack is there to prevent dirt and water getting into the rack tube, the reason it is linked is to equalise the pressure either side of the piston that is in the center of the rack (used when fitted to the PAS pump to reduce input force) to ensure the steering rack doesn't resist your input at the wheel by compressing the air in the tube (you will end up with a heavier steering wheel feel if you don't do this)
You can either buy some copper of aluminium tube and reuse the existing fittings, (flaring the ends to make the fittings seal) or you can reuse a section of the original tube (cut to length and bent to shape) and the original fittings.
Word of warning, make sure you put the fittings on the tube before flaring both ends or you'll be cursing yourself haha
Hope that helps.
Cheers, Just want to drive it now and check everything works as it should, and that they are positioned correctly. Good plan!.. I do think that making sure all the driver interfaces are perfect is one of the key parts to making a good race car.
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
#20
I drove down to ATEC Fluid Systems at Brackley a few weeks ago to pick up all the brake and fuel lines/fittings for the car. I had dealt with them before through my previous job and absolutely love their quality! 2nd to none!..
I spent a long time thinking about the routing and what fittings I needed for 'future proofing' the car for future updates. (Fitting pressure sensors, Throttle Bodies, Pedal box etc etc) I wanted to make sure I only had to route all the hoses once and that any updates will be an easy job to install.
I have gone for ultra lightweight Black polyamide coated aluminium hardlines for both the fuel and brake system, these will be ran internally in the car. At the corners of the brake system I will be utilising clear PVC covered 600 Series PTFE/braided hose, and the same for the 400 series hose for the fuel tank/rail joining hoses. These lines will be connected to Black anodised bulkhead fittings. This system will give me a firmer brake pedal over the conventional fully braided hose throughout, and a significant weight saving.
I will be routing all the hardlines over the coming weeks.. I'll keep the updates coming as the installation progresses.
I drove down to ATEC Fluid Systems at Brackley a few weeks ago to pick up all the brake and fuel lines/fittings for the car. I had dealt with them before through my previous job and absolutely love their quality! 2nd to none!..
I spent a long time thinking about the routing and what fittings I needed for 'future proofing' the car for future updates. (Fitting pressure sensors, Throttle Bodies, Pedal box etc etc) I wanted to make sure I only had to route all the hoses once and that any updates will be an easy job to install.
I have gone for ultra lightweight Black polyamide coated aluminium hardlines for both the fuel and brake system, these will be ran internally in the car. At the corners of the brake system I will be utilising clear PVC covered 600 Series PTFE/braided hose, and the same for the 400 series hose for the fuel tank/rail joining hoses. These lines will be connected to Black anodised bulkhead fittings. This system will give me a firmer brake pedal over the conventional fully braided hose throughout, and a significant weight saving.
I will be routing all the hardlines over the coming weeks.. I'll keep the updates coming as the installation progresses.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
There's some money spent there mate! Loving it!#20
I drove down to ATEC Fluid Systems at Brackley a few weeks ago to pick up all the brake and fuel lines/fittings for the car. I had dealt with them before through my previous job and absolutely love their quality! 2nd to none!..
I spent a long time thinking about the routing and what fittings I needed for 'future proofing' the car for future updates. (Fitting pressure sensors, Throttle Bodies, Pedal box etc etc) I wanted to make sure I only had to route all the hoses once and that any updates will be an easy job to install.
I have gone for ultra lightweight Black polyamide coated aluminium hardlines for both the fuel and brake system, these will be ran internally in the car. At the corners of the brake system I will be utilising clear PVC covered 600 Series PTFE/braided hose, and the same for the 400 series hose for the fuel tank/rail joining hoses. These lines will be connected to Black anodised bulkhead fittings. This system will give me a firmer brake pedal over the conventional fully braided hose throughout, and a significant weight saving.
I will be routing all the hardlines over the coming weeks.. I'll keep the updates coming as the installation progresses.
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers Rob.. I haven't done anything with it yet.. I did contemplate removing the spool valve and welding the steering shaft to the pinion gear to prevent any exessive load on the torsion bar .. I did a little research on here before that though and didn't see anyone having an issues with their racks after they did the same mods.. I think a DCI rack will be purchased before we do any racing though, as their lighter and rigidly mounted (just want to use the car first) ... Were you worried about the torsion bar failing? Does the DCI rack have the same ratio lock to lock?
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers mate, got a more exiting post coming soon! Watch this space lol
Haha yeah just a lil bit [emoji16] .. worth it though i think. They do look awesome
It was a combination of things. We started using the HPAS then got a bit fed up with it as we were taking the engine out fairly regularly. We got rid of the pump and took the piston out of the rack. Didn't fancy welding up the pinion in case it distorted though. Switching to the dci steering rack made sense for several reasons. Mostly to get rid of the compliance and make it a bit more direct but it's also a bit more compact and I much prefer the failure mode of the pressed steel than cast aluminium. The rack we have seems to be the same ratio as best I could measure with a steel rule. I think there are a couple of different part numbers and I had a search through here first. It's effectively a bit quicker in practice though because you'll get a couple of degrees deflection at the steering wheel when the suspension's loaded up (limiters are typically at +/- 5deg although not sure about the Clio) with the HPAS rack.
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Yeah good point, removing the pump every time is a pain!.. Also good point about the 'X' degrees of wind up before the anti rotation tabs lock out on the pinion increasing the compliance.. I've seen a few people who race their clios try the EPAS route, I have got one but ideally this would be run with a DCI rack (again no assistance to rack so pinion would see high loads), also im not sure what the feedback to the wheel would be like due to the gear ratio on the assistive motor dulling it out.. one option that does interest me if the passive steering is too heavy is the E-HPAS .. electric hydraulic pump (can be housed off the engine and adjusted) a citroen saxo has a good donor system to pinch, which can be plumbed into existing PAS clio rack
Guess I just need to try all the options out and see which one we get on with the best!
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Hi, Just noticed I missed your post.. What do you mean?.. All the parts un screw or un bolt from each other.. Gets harder to dismantle if you want to get at the piston in the rack or the valve in the pinion assy though
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
#20.5
The next task was to continue to look at the driver controls, this time the gearshift system.
Going to spend the next hour or so sorting through all the pictures.. Got quite a few for his one.
Basically having moved the seat as far back as possible It would be impossible to reach the standard gear stick in its current position, (especially fully strapped in with the 5 point harnesses) I did look at the pure motorsport shifter kit, but again It would have been a stuggle to reach it, engaging 1st and Reverse would have been a nightmare.
This left me with a few options:
1. Relocate the standard gear stick assembly (negatives: large throw between gears and low height)
2. Relocate the pure motorsport kit (negatives: similar throw to standard system, expensive kit ~£285)
3. Design my own system to be positioned exactly where i wanted it (negatives: The time it would take to design and make it)
I chose option 3!.. design my own. I love designing (its what I do for a living) and with my OCD :tongueout: it was going to be the only option really!
I set about designing my own system..
Here's my Fag packet style drawing showing what I was going for.. (lightweight tubular frame design with integral switch panel, positioned at the height i wanted with a reduced throw.. Tunnel sealed with a rubber gaiter)
The next task was to continue to look at the driver controls, this time the gearshift system.
Going to spend the next hour or so sorting through all the pictures.. Got quite a few for his one.
Basically having moved the seat as far back as possible It would be impossible to reach the standard gear stick in its current position, (especially fully strapped in with the 5 point harnesses) I did look at the pure motorsport shifter kit, but again It would have been a stuggle to reach it, engaging 1st and Reverse would have been a nightmare.
This left me with a few options:
1. Relocate the standard gear stick assembly (negatives: large throw between gears and low height)
2. Relocate the pure motorsport kit (negatives: similar throw to standard system, expensive kit ~£285)
3. Design my own system to be positioned exactly where i wanted it (negatives: The time it would take to design and make it)
I chose option 3!.. design my own. I love designing (its what I do for a living) and with my OCD :tongueout: it was going to be the only option really!
I set about designing my own system..
Here's my Fag packet style drawing showing what I was going for.. (lightweight tubular frame design with integral switch panel, positioned at the height i wanted with a reduced throw.. Tunnel sealed with a rubber gaiter)
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Now this I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of!!#20.5
The next task was to continue to look at the driver controls, this time the gearshift system.
Going to spend the next hour or so sorting through all the pictures.. Got quite a few for his one.
Basically having moved the seat as far back as possible It would be impossible to reach the standard gear stick in its current position, (especially fully strapped in with the 5 point harnesses) I did look at the pure motorsport shifter kit, but again It would have been a stuggle to reach it, engaging 1st and Reverse would have been a nightmare.
This left me with a few options:
1. Relocate the standard gear stick assembly (negatives: large throw between gears and low height)
2. Relocate the pure motorsport kit (negatives: similar throw to standard system, expensive kit ~£285)
3. Design my own system to be positioned exactly where i wanted it (negatives: The time it would take to design and make it)
I chose option 3!.. design my own. I love designing (its what I do for a living) and with my OCD :tongueout: it was going to be the only option really!
I set about designing my own system..
Here's my Fag packet style drawing showing what I was going for.. (lightweight tubular frame design with integral switch panel, positioned at the height i wanted with a reduced throw.. Tunnel sealed with a rubber gaiter)
I really like how you're gonna be designing your own! very cool indeed.
If that goes tits up, just to let you know - In my shell the gearstick is relocated 150mm futher back than standard.
I had a PMS kit originally and a quick phone call to Nick and he agreed to make me a longer linkage as in the gearbox end bit (which is something you will probably need to look at aswell for the linkage to be able to clear the exhaust
Just a heads up
If that goes tits up, just to let you know - In my shell the gearstick is relocated 150mm futher back than standard.
I had a PMS kit originally and a quick phone call to Nick and he agreed to make me a longer linkage as in the gearbox end bit (which is something you will probably need to look at aswell for the linkage to be able to clear the exhaust
Just a heads up
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
#21
Well as I just alluded to in my previous post I started to design my own Gearshift.. I'm going to document the process below:
The first step was to bolt in the seat and get the steering wheel in the correct place.
I then mocked up, using an old mk1 mini gearstick and some random items from around the garage, a temporary gear stick and switch panel which I could move around the car until I liked the position.
I wanted to feel comfortable whilst changing gear and have a good line of sight to the switch panel etc. I decided to have the switch panel mounted to the gear stick mount as I am going with the MK1 dash for weight saving and asthetics, and also it would be ideal as then I could get the switches within reaching distance, while reducing the number of components (not having an additional switch panel mounted to cage)
The final position was set.
The gear stick sits approx 200mm rearward from the original position and alot higher!.. higher than the pure kit too!.. Its in line with the centre of the steering wheel both vertically and longitudinally. (such a comfortable position, also means I don't have to reach from from the steering wheel to change gear)
Switch panel can be reached comfortably also
With the position set I took a million measurements of where the top of the gear knob and switch panel were located so I could start to design the system on CAD.
Initially I measured the travel/throw of the existing gear stick in my mates trophy.
Laterally it moves +/-40mm (80mm total) and fore/aft +/-70mm (140 total) (meaured at the centre at the top)
I then modeled the rod to calculate the lever ratio which in turn gave me the travel at the lower end.
I then translated these new lower end set of points to the desired +200mm position.
I then decided on the reduced travel/throw i wanted at the top of the new rod, which was (+/-25mm lateral and +/-45mm fore/aft)
This then determined the new bearing centre based on the new calculated lever ratio.
Few pics below of the process:
I then ordered some bits from Pure Motorsport as they were cheap and i didn't want to have to make them.
-Gear Knob
-Reverse Sleeve Spring
-Bearing Lock Nut
I then bought a new PTFE lined Minebea Bearing!.. Defo worth the cost as there is no stiction or play in it!
All these parts were modelled up and added to the assembly.
The pictures below show the design nearing completion and the blue points show the positions of the lever for each gear.
Also you can see the reverse sleeve modelled in all positions, required to calculate the diameter of the sleeve, and position of the side plate to ensure reverse is only selected when pulling the sleeve up etc.
I then set about doing all the drawings for the parts and getting them made. I was able to turn up most of the components myself on the lathe, however the bearing housing and reverse sleeve bosses were machined on a good friends CNC lathe which he did for free for me.
All the steel tubes have had the profiles flat patterned and printed out, then wrapped around the tubes, so much easier than guessing.
The steel frame is made from CDS steel tube and the rod is made from Stainless 304
Just the simple task of fitting it all together now 😅
First job, press the reverse sleeve bosses onto the end of the pre cut steel tube, turned to length
Then fit the nylon bushes into both ends. These are a nice sliding fit over the rod and should prevent any rattling against the bearing assembly.
The Reverse spring was then installed over the rod
And finally the Gear knob was screwed onto the end. (with a nice aluminium anodised bolt, OCD again)
Next I slid the stainless threaded boss I had made through the bearing and the locking nut was then tightened on
I then placed the rod through the boss and located the bearing in the housing and retained it with a Spirolox (type of circlip, but better)
I then clamped the rod in the vice to test the assembly... Looking pretty similar to the CAD!, always a good sign.
A quick vid of the reverse sleeve action.. Nice and positive.
Next step was to make the frame..
I started by clamping the Bosses onto the tunnel (You may remember these from previous posts) . I also previously welded up the handbrake cut out on the tunnel
I then used a steel tube turned to an exact length and angled to the correect angle to position the bearing and bearing housing in the desired location.
With the housing in position I tacked on the rear brace tubes
Then the front brace tubes
I then welded up the switch panel square on the bench before jigging and tacking on the central support
Then I tacked on the final 2 switch panel supports and the frame triangulation tubes
With the frame all tacked up and checked, I took it to the bench to be final welded
The next job was to bend the stainless lever at the correct position to the correct angle.
A bit of clamping, tweeking and bending and it was all done!
The bearing threaded boss was then pushed on and set to the correct distance from the end of the lever rod.
Then it was welded in position
The bearing was then bedded in on the pillar drill... If you use PTFE lined bearings there is actually a proper beading in procedure where you heat up the PTFE by rotating the inner and causing friction, this then 'melts' the PTFE liner to the exact profile of the inner. This reduces all friction in the joint whilst not inducing play in the joint. I have done this many times; it is a tricky procedure, there is a risk of over heating the liners and damaging the bearing. This procedure is direct from the bearing manufacturer.
I then put it all back together on the bench before installing it back in the car to start working on the linkage to the gearbox.
I made a quick aluminium switch panel plate which i will be using to mock up the switch positions before I make a carbon version.
Few pics of it in the car!.
I then cut out the tunnel for the new rod location. This will be all welded up when the linkage is finalised.
I installed the engine/gearbox and subframe back into the car to enable mocking up the gear linkage and to ensure the gear shift system could locate all the gears efficiently.
I also fitted the rubber gaiter and connected the linkage up (I will write another post on the linkage, it was the last thing I did last week so don't have any pictures yet.)
I then welded on the 1st/2nd/Reverse side plate. I also welded on an additional plate for 5th gear. I wanted to ensure that there was a stop so as to not put excessive load on the linkages by over extending the lever rod. It has a really positive feel now!
the gaiter was fitted to aid in the fabrication of the tunnel closing panel etc.
Here's a little video showing it all working and selecting the gears. You can also see how little play the system has at the end too. (excuse the heavy breathing haha)
Like i said before I will do another post showing the linkage, if people want.
I hope you enjoyed reading it. I am really happy with the outcome of it.. I just need to finish off welding some tabs for the brake bias to be mounted and it can be sent off for powdercoating and plating.
Another job ticked off.. Just the steering wheel /column mount to sort out next!
Well as I just alluded to in my previous post I started to design my own Gearshift.. I'm going to document the process below:
The first step was to bolt in the seat and get the steering wheel in the correct place.
I then mocked up, using an old mk1 mini gearstick and some random items from around the garage, a temporary gear stick and switch panel which I could move around the car until I liked the position.
I wanted to feel comfortable whilst changing gear and have a good line of sight to the switch panel etc. I decided to have the switch panel mounted to the gear stick mount as I am going with the MK1 dash for weight saving and asthetics, and also it would be ideal as then I could get the switches within reaching distance, while reducing the number of components (not having an additional switch panel mounted to cage)
The final position was set.
The gear stick sits approx 200mm rearward from the original position and alot higher!.. higher than the pure kit too!.. Its in line with the centre of the steering wheel both vertically and longitudinally. (such a comfortable position, also means I don't have to reach from from the steering wheel to change gear)
Switch panel can be reached comfortably also
With the position set I took a million measurements of where the top of the gear knob and switch panel were located so I could start to design the system on CAD.
Initially I measured the travel/throw of the existing gear stick in my mates trophy.
Laterally it moves +/-40mm (80mm total) and fore/aft +/-70mm (140 total) (meaured at the centre at the top)
I then modeled the rod to calculate the lever ratio which in turn gave me the travel at the lower end.
I then translated these new lower end set of points to the desired +200mm position.
I then decided on the reduced travel/throw i wanted at the top of the new rod, which was (+/-25mm lateral and +/-45mm fore/aft)
This then determined the new bearing centre based on the new calculated lever ratio.
Few pics below of the process:
I then ordered some bits from Pure Motorsport as they were cheap and i didn't want to have to make them.
-Gear Knob
-Reverse Sleeve Spring
-Bearing Lock Nut
I then bought a new PTFE lined Minebea Bearing!.. Defo worth the cost as there is no stiction or play in it!
All these parts were modelled up and added to the assembly.
The pictures below show the design nearing completion and the blue points show the positions of the lever for each gear.
Also you can see the reverse sleeve modelled in all positions, required to calculate the diameter of the sleeve, and position of the side plate to ensure reverse is only selected when pulling the sleeve up etc.
I then set about doing all the drawings for the parts and getting them made. I was able to turn up most of the components myself on the lathe, however the bearing housing and reverse sleeve bosses were machined on a good friends CNC lathe which he did for free for me.
All the steel tubes have had the profiles flat patterned and printed out, then wrapped around the tubes, so much easier than guessing.
The steel frame is made from CDS steel tube and the rod is made from Stainless 304
Just the simple task of fitting it all together now 😅
First job, press the reverse sleeve bosses onto the end of the pre cut steel tube, turned to length
Then fit the nylon bushes into both ends. These are a nice sliding fit over the rod and should prevent any rattling against the bearing assembly.
The Reverse spring was then installed over the rod
And finally the Gear knob was screwed onto the end. (with a nice aluminium anodised bolt, OCD again)
Next I slid the stainless threaded boss I had made through the bearing and the locking nut was then tightened on
I then placed the rod through the boss and located the bearing in the housing and retained it with a Spirolox (type of circlip, but better)
I then clamped the rod in the vice to test the assembly... Looking pretty similar to the CAD!, always a good sign.
A quick vid of the reverse sleeve action.. Nice and positive.
Next step was to make the frame..
I started by clamping the Bosses onto the tunnel (You may remember these from previous posts) . I also previously welded up the handbrake cut out on the tunnel
I then used a steel tube turned to an exact length and angled to the correect angle to position the bearing and bearing housing in the desired location.
With the housing in position I tacked on the rear brace tubes
Then the front brace tubes
I then welded up the switch panel square on the bench before jigging and tacking on the central support
Then I tacked on the final 2 switch panel supports and the frame triangulation tubes
With the frame all tacked up and checked, I took it to the bench to be final welded
The next job was to bend the stainless lever at the correct position to the correct angle.
A bit of clamping, tweeking and bending and it was all done!
The bearing threaded boss was then pushed on and set to the correct distance from the end of the lever rod.
Then it was welded in position
The bearing was then bedded in on the pillar drill... If you use PTFE lined bearings there is actually a proper beading in procedure where you heat up the PTFE by rotating the inner and causing friction, this then 'melts' the PTFE liner to the exact profile of the inner. This reduces all friction in the joint whilst not inducing play in the joint. I have done this many times; it is a tricky procedure, there is a risk of over heating the liners and damaging the bearing. This procedure is direct from the bearing manufacturer.
I then put it all back together on the bench before installing it back in the car to start working on the linkage to the gearbox.
I made a quick aluminium switch panel plate which i will be using to mock up the switch positions before I make a carbon version.
Few pics of it in the car!.
I then cut out the tunnel for the new rod location. This will be all welded up when the linkage is finalised.
I installed the engine/gearbox and subframe back into the car to enable mocking up the gear linkage and to ensure the gear shift system could locate all the gears efficiently.
I also fitted the rubber gaiter and connected the linkage up (I will write another post on the linkage, it was the last thing I did last week so don't have any pictures yet.)
I then welded on the 1st/2nd/Reverse side plate. I also welded on an additional plate for 5th gear. I wanted to ensure that there was a stop so as to not put excessive load on the linkages by over extending the lever rod. It has a really positive feel now!
the gaiter was fitted to aid in the fabrication of the tunnel closing panel etc.
Here's a little video showing it all working and selecting the gears. You can also see how little play the system has at the end too. (excuse the heavy breathing haha)
Like i said before I will do another post showing the linkage, if people want.
I hope you enjoyed reading it. I am really happy with the outcome of it.. I just need to finish off welding some tabs for the brake bias to be mounted and it can be sent off for powdercoating and plating.
Another job ticked off.. Just the steering wheel /column mount to sort out next!
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
This is so awesome!
Wish I had the skills.
Wish I had the skills.
imprezaworks
ClioSport Club Member
Mk5 Golf GTI :)
Wows
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers lads.. appreciate the comments!
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
No not yet.. we still have to paint the interior and engine bay.. The screen will probably be one of the last things to go back on tho tbh.. Less likely to get damaged then
Sorry yeah good point!
I just want to cross refer your wiring to mine haha.
Mine draws the current from the battery as the revs drop and the voltage drops also, but im yet to see if actually working (need a cold morning)
I've weighed my polycarbs, will dig it out for you.
That looks sexual! Well impressed. Like the anodized bolt. Real smart!
Love the detailed description and cad pics too. So good.
You'll be having a few requests to build these as kits!
Especially like the sponge Bob seat cover [emoji14]
Love the detailed description and cad pics too. So good.
You'll be having a few requests to build these as kits!
Especially like the sponge Bob seat cover [emoji14]
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Cheers Dan!.. You should look on Pro-Bolts website and go nuts! (no pun intended lol).. They sponsored the Formula Student Team I ran while I was at Uni.
I'm surprised it took this long for someone to comment on my choice of seat cover! haha.
I am currently looking at buying a TIG welder for myself, fed up of borrowing the one from work or my friends.. Least then I would be able to do more work at home, and yeah possibly make some kits up of things people want that I've done / offer my welding services etc
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Haha, cheers.. We use Catia V5 at work which is handy for me.. Can do some CAD work in my spare time then!
Tomotek
ClioSport Club Member
Yeah I used Solidworks for 5 years at Uni, was good, really liked it!.. there all the same really though, Its just re learning which icon does what operation etc. Going to V6 soon here, no doubt they will have messed with all the icons again :triumph: .. Oh cool, do you work for a supplier?
