Try calling these and see what they say http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/ or find a refurbisher around by you like these maybe http://www.brake-caliper-painting.com/brake_caliper_rebuilding_and_remanufacturing.html#.US0YhowgGSM
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Trying to recover the seats would be my first plan, the other thing you could consider is flipping the calipers round. You would obviously still need to get the seats to seal up but if you turned them upside down, swapped Left to Right, Right to Left and then moved the balance pipes to where the bleed nipples where. At least it would mean that once you got the balance pipe to seal you wouldnt need to touch it again.
Plenty of meat there to have larger nipples fitted if the seat or threads are galled. Well worth looking into considering the cost of them.
Personally If you can see the seats damaged, get a drill bit or reemer ground to the right angle of seat and lightly dress them, new nipples and you'll be fine. If its hreads then chase them with a tap, new nipples again and you should be good. Light wrap of ptfe isn't going to harm either.
Personally If you can see the seats damaged, get a drill bit or reemer ground to the right angle of seat and lightly dress them, new nipples and you'll be fine. If its hreads then chase them with a tap, new nipples again and you should be good. Light wrap of ptfe isn't going to harm either.
So much for the best Clio brake setup available 
That's what I was thinking. Its only ally so very easy to tap.
Thanks for the suggestions chaps As said below I will see if they can be sorted out FOC and if not then I will have to look into the other options. It was just a shame to have to put the car back in the air and start taking it apart again after only getting it finished yesterday
Pictures of the seats and nipples
I am sending them off to get them looked at and hopefully they will sort them FOC as it shouldn't be happening especially as its all four nipple doing it.
As said below I will see if they can be sorted out FOC and if not then I will have to look into the other options. It was just a shame to have to put the car back in the air and start taking it apart again after only getting it finished yesterday Pictures of the seats and nipples
Yes Kenny I also thought about swapping them over but they are sided for some reason and shows direction of disc on each calliper
I am sending them off to get them looked at and hopefully they will sort them FOC as it shouldn't be happening especially as its all four nipple doing it.
Thanks mate yes if they don't get sorted for me then I will be looking into doing this
To be fair thats why i'm so gutted as once i'd sorted the brake pad and ABS issues out last season the brakes were phenomenal they amazed me so it would be a real shame after spending so much on them to not have them on the carSo much for the best Clio brake setup available
Problem is the point where the nipple contacts at the bottom is quite small and broken through into the fluid reservoir
if you grind it - it will just make the opening bigger and harder to seal
If it was me I'd try some brand new bleed nipples just and tighten 'em a bit more than I usually would lol
Is it worth trying different nipple materials too? Stainless? Brass? Something that might bit a bit better and seal better
if you grind it - it will just make the opening bigger and harder to seal
If it was me I'd try some brand new bleed nipples just and tighten 'em a bit more than I usually would lol
Is it worth trying different nipple materials too? Stainless? Brass? Something that might bit a bit better and seal better
Already tried new nipples
I did wonder about stainless and did also see brass ones available. Mmmmm will see what happens once i've sent them back for looking at
I did wonder about stainless and did also see brass ones available. Mmmmm will see what happens once i've sent them back for looking at
182cup & 172 racecar
They maybe good, but I couldn't be doing with this sort of hassle.
BMW Z4
BMW Z4
You could try these
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/brake-bleeders/stahlbus-speed-bleeder-valve
Glue/weld/ram/bang them in place and then you dont have to touch them again as it's the top part that opens.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/brake-bleeders/stahlbus-speed-bleeder-valve
Glue/weld/ram/bang them in place and then you dont have to touch them again as it's the top part that opens.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Is that the 'pro motorsport' way then?! Pmsl!
pure-motorsport
ClioSport Trader
Clio 172
If you want a quick fix try this : http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/141299_LT5557_5452SSF448695.pdf
We've used it here in hydraulic stuff and it's ace.
We've used it here in hydraulic stuff and it's ace.
James try the sealant that p-m recommends but do so after turning the calipers over so you arent going to keep needing to undo the damaged thread again and again.
And obviously keep a very close eye on it initially with something as vital as brakes!
EDIT: Arse, just seen that turning them over has been discussed already and you say you cant
Not good, as even if you get it to seal with a sealant, you could be in trouble on the day if you need to bleed your brakes and it doesnt then have time to cure again etc.
And obviously keep a very close eye on it initially with something as vital as brakes!
EDIT: Arse, just seen that turning them over has been discussed already and you say you cant
Not good, as even if you get it to seal with a sealant, you could be in trouble on the day if you need to bleed your brakes and it doesnt then have time to cure again etc.
Sided calipers?? WTF
If this was my wilwoods I'd just seal some bolts into the holes and flip them over as you never need the bottom set of bleed nipples.
I have to agree with what some others have said - it might be an awesome brake setup but I doubt it's worth the hassle over a set of wilwoods or ap calipers
In fact there was a set of genuine renaultsport cup racer 4 pots sold from Martijn the other day - would have been ideal. If they were good enough for the german cup racers I'm sure they would have been good enough for yours
If this was my wilwoods I'd just seal some bolts into the holes and flip them over as you never need the bottom set of bleed nipples.
I have to agree with what some others have said - it might be an awesome brake setup but I doubt it's worth the hassle over a set of wilwoods or ap calipers
In fact there was a set of genuine renaultsport cup racer 4 pots sold from Martijn the other day - would have been ideal. If they were good enough for the german cup racers I'm sure they would have been good enough for yours
Yes Mark thanks, I've seen those in the past and quite a good idea too!
At the end of the day it shouldn't be happening so it is what I would expect to happen and now I am dealing with somebody who see's it from my point of view and is trying to help rather than Alcon direct. My only concern is ptfe is sealing the threads where the threads shouldn't even need sealing. With it being something as important as the brakes I would rather go without these and fit standard as its just not worth the risk of failure and causing damage to me and others
Haha thanks Fred, don't worry just for now as hopefully all is getting sorted out
Thanks for that Nick i'll bear it in mind
Suppose I could use the sealant and the bleed valves that Iceman has linked to above but will try and get them replaced firstJames try the sealant that p-m recommends but do so after turning the calipers over so you arent going to keep needing to undo the damaged thread again and again.
And obviously keep a very close eye on it initially with something as vital as brakes!
EDIT: Arse, just seen that turning them over has been discussed already and you say you cant
Not good, as even if you get it to seal with a sealant, you could be in trouble on the day if you need to bleed your brakes and it doesnt then have time to cure again etc.
Haha yes I didn't realise it either but it seems to be the case with a lot of callipers from my research over the last day or so mate
Yes it just all comes down to money and i've paid out for one setup and I will push to make sure I don't have to pay out again
anything that means you dont have to keep working that thread, is a good plan.
The seat should be 90° iirc so you should be able to run 1 of these in the bottom .. The thinner shank should also clear the threads..
Thanks Stu, will see what happens when Alcon have seen them and done a proper diagnosis but will keep that in mind if I have to fix them myself
Just been sent a picture of the valves out of the head of my old engine
Thats from where the piston went up and slapped the valves!
Thats from where the piston went up and slapped the valves!
I have them on my car, the ones with a sliding nut built in? They are fine for length, need a little trimming down.
Haha lol sounds like a plan Mike
No Kelv sorry, I bought mine from Demon Tweeks and I think when TDF originally fitted them they did the same. I'm sure what you have bought is the same though
Bit of a picture update for those who don't follow us on Facebook I think you might all be getting bored of my waffle so i'll just let the pictures do the talking!
Driveshafts going in
Checking clearances
Brake lines in
Forward facing camera fitted
And aligned
Fitting the fibreglass boot
BTM exhaust going back on
Mis matched panels need to re-wrap them
Seat and dash installed
Positioning the new rad
Welded some studs and R-clipped to suit existing rad mounts
Then the car was back on the ground
Then the calipers were leaking
So it all had to come apart again
Working out where to position the oil cooler out of harms reach (There is a justified reason to having it behind the rad)
Making the cooler pipes
Welded up the redundant boss from the golf rad as no point in having a potential leak point
Welded the bracket onto the rad for the oil cooler
Went to go fit the fuel line but the fitting shredded itself
Now I could do with some help if possible With my gearlinkage moved back forwards I can't reuse the switch panel that TDF made so I need to make a new one and I can't really decide where to mount it. I am having a switch panel for the steering wheel cut to operate most of the things I will use in the race such as pit lane speed limiter, headlight flash, pit to car radio, page change on dash. So the control panel will be for other items such as engine start, wipers, fuel pump, fan override etc. Where do people think the best option and design for the switch panel?
Thanks as always
James
I think you might all be getting bored of my waffle so i'll just let the pictures do the talking!Driveshafts going in
Checking clearances
Brake lines in
Forward facing camera fitted
And aligned
Fitting the fibreglass boot
BTM exhaust going back on
Mis matched panels need to re-wrap them
Seat and dash installed
Positioning the new rad
Welded some studs and R-clipped to suit existing rad mounts
Then the car was back on the ground
Then the calipers were leaking
So it all had to come apart again
Working out where to position the oil cooler out of harms reach (There is a justified reason to having it behind the rad
)Making the cooler pipes
Welded up the redundant boss from the golf rad as no point in having a potential leak point
Welded the bracket onto the rad for the oil cooler
Went to go fit the fuel line but the fitting shredded itself
Now I could do with some help if possible
With my gearlinkage moved back forwards I can't reuse the switch panel that TDF made so I need to make a new one and I can't really decide where to mount it. I am having a switch panel for the steering wheel cut to operate most of the things I will use in the race such as pit lane speed limiter, headlight flash, pit to car radio, page change on dash. So the control panel will be for other items such as engine start, wipers, fuel pump, fan override etc. Where do people think the best option and design for the switch panel? Thanks as always
James
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Cracking, nearly there - what's happened re Alcons? FOC??
TrackCar & F30 330d
Dont mount it on the dash as if you stall the car then you have to think will you be able to reach it when your strapped into your seat.
Have those thing mounted to the left of your seat.
Have those thing mounted to the left of your seat.
220 Trophy
I'll ditto that! - Looking very very impressive James!!
Yes Pete just the dreaded wiring to do :dead:
Could do Mike but because I don't have a bottom half dash then I would need to make a bracket that goes from the top half to the floor to support it. The other thing is the standard dash is very heavy so i'm tempted to get rid and replace with something lighter if I can.
Yes I was wondering where the most natural place is going to be to get to them, That looks good mateDont mount it on the dash as if you stall the car then you have to think will you be able to reach it when your strapped into your seat.
Have those thing mounted to the left of your seat.
Haha thank you very much, very kind of you to say
Thanks Mark
I agree. It's literally like Clio perfection! Good stuff James!
Looking good James!
I managed to get most of the weight out the standard dash, perhaps not quite as light as a MK1 dash top but at least it fits the car properly and gives you a useable thing to mount stuff on. Most of the weight is on the passenger airbag bit, get your self some 40 grit flap discs like these ebay 360484529065 and you can grind off all the chunky plastic, takes a while and makes quite a mess!!
Personally I don't like having switches etc down beside the seat, with a helmet on its not the easiest place to see so while you can reach them ok you probably have to do it all by feel.
Having something in front of the gear lever is the most natural place to reach for. But mounting it can be a bit tricky, took me a wee while to come up with what Ive done.
What ever you try though, make sure your strapped into the seat and have a skid lid on before committing to it.
I managed to get most of the weight out the standard dash, perhaps not quite as light as a MK1 dash top but at least it fits the car properly and gives you a useable thing to mount stuff on. Most of the weight is on the passenger airbag bit, get your self some 40 grit flap discs like these ebay 360484529065 and you can grind off all the chunky plastic, takes a while and makes quite a mess!!
Personally I don't like having switches etc down beside the seat, with a helmet on its not the easiest place to see so while you can reach them ok you probably have to do it all by feel.
Having something in front of the gear lever is the most natural place to reach for. But mounting it can be a bit tricky, took me a wee while to come up with what Ive done.
What ever you try though, make sure your strapped into the seat and have a skid lid on before committing to it.
Trim your fancy control panel down, get some brackets made and mount it like the cup racers ran, it would be a shame to ruin such a tarty piece of gear.
Whats your thinking about running the oil cooler behind the rad other than its easier to pipe and less likely to get nicked with a stone etc??
Whats your thinking about running the oil cooler behind the rad other than its easier to pipe and less likely to get nicked with a stone etc??
Must admit I think I'd do what Swede has suggested
Get it mounted higher up so it's in front of the gear lever and reachable, should be able to do it by just making a raised platform for it
Get it mounted higher up so it's in front of the gear lever and reachable, should be able to do it by just making a raised platform for it
Sorry Pete forgot to reply to the second part of the question, nothing yet just spoke to them and they confirm they have been overtightened so I am waiting to see what they recommend to fix them
Thanks Martin
Thats a good idea thanks, I did wonder about getting the weight out of the standard dash so will give that a try
Yes I am starting to wonder the same, i've sat in the car over the last week to come up with ideas and can't really work out where is best.
The problem is the fancy control panel needs remaking the switch area anyway as I'm not keeping the ignition barrel etc, plus I want to keep the ability to run a passenger seat if required.
The main reason for it is to get it out of the way, reduce the run of oil pipes, keep it protected and just generally a better place for it, the other option was to mount it in front but I didn't fancy having the oil cooler upside down (Was always told you couldn't by TDF don't know if this is true or not but it's kind of stuck in my head) also the long pipes going up and down scare me to think my oil pressure is in the arms of some pipes dangling everywhere so I just wanted to keep them as short as possible. Obviously the oil cooler isn't going to be as efficient but it's a 16 row and was over cooling the oil from the 3 laps I had working oil temps last season so i'm sure it will be a suitable system
Yes Phil that is the area i'm starting to think would be best too, the only other option is to extend the dash out where the airvents used to be but that could be a real faff
I would have thought a bit of warm air from the radiator will be a good thing to stop it over cooling the oil. It's where I'm thinking of positioning mine with thermostatic plate take off
Also LOL at not fitting them upside down - makes no difference at all, oils pumped round under pressure
Only issue it might cause would be oil draining out of it while parked up but I wouldn't have thought so.
Most have input on one side and out on the other anyway
Also LOL at not fitting them upside down - makes no difference at all, oils pumped round under pressure
Only issue it might cause would be oil draining out of it while parked up but I wouldn't have thought so.
Most have input on one side and out on the other anyway
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