ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

incy-spiders Clio 182 turbo



frayz

ClioSport Club Member
I like the idea of a Naca duct there but as a single vent I think it’s placement doesn’t look right. Perhaps a pair would look better.
If a single vent I think it needs to be more offset.
I can see why it’s positioned where it is, but I think you’re better off letting heat out as opposed to trying to force cool air in. The under bonnet pressures will be quite high from the air coming through the cooling pack from the front.
Some vents with a leading edge gurney will be your best bet for extracting heat I think.
Do you still run an undertray?
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
I like the idea of a Naca duct there but as a single vent I think it’s placement doesn’t look right. Perhaps a pair would look better.
If a single vent I think it needs to be more offset.
I can see why it’s positioned where it is, but I think you’re better off letting heat out as opposed to trying to force cool air in. The under bonnet pressures will be quite high from the air coming through the cooling pack from the front.
Some vents with a leading edge gurney will be your best bet for extracting heat I think.
Do you still run an undertray?

Yep still run an under tray, as said it’s not really about looks, more to direct some cold air straight at the bulkhead as it gets quite toasty down there.

I’m not keen on letting heat out, all the high pressure air comes in through the front and through the cooling pack as stated and it’s only path is down past the turbo and bulkhead so some more added air from the naca duct is going to help, as will the brake duct pipes going into the engine bay..

Letting heat out will ruin the efficiency of the high pressure air leaving the bay to the underside.

I’m not a fan of the looks I’ve got to admit, it’s only a trail thing which cost me a total of £60 [emoji108][emoji108]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
As stated, you already have an area under the bonnet of high pressure. So the pressure in the engine bay is likely to be greater than that flowing over the top section of the bonnet. That area by the scuttle and lower screw is quite a low pressure area.
The air is being forced around the front of the car by the frontal area.
From what I’ve seen I this area, unless you have a high scoop aka Subaru style that is up in the airflow and sealed in it pathway you’re better off using that area of low pressure to your advantage and extracting the heat.
Get some thermocouples In there, maybe even some telltail ribbons to see what it’s doing.
Maybe your theory is correct but in practice I don’t think it will work quite how you’re hoping it will.
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
As stated, you already have an area under the bonnet of high pressure. So the pressure in the engine bay is likely to be greater than that flowing over the top section of the bonnet. That area by the scuttle and lower screw is quite a low pressure area.
The air is being forced around the front of the car by the frontal area.
From what I’ve seen I this area, unless you have a high scoop aka Subaru style that is up in the airflow and sealed in it pathway you’re better off using that area of low pressure to your advantage and extracting the heat.
Get some thermocouples In there, maybe even some telltail ribbons to see what it’s doing.
Maybe your theory is correct but in practice I don’t think it will work quite how you’re hoping it will.

Sounds like a plan, I’ll do that.. thanks mate.

I was thinking something along those lines and some way to actually tell other than aiming my heat gun in areas with it open then blocked off after driving. It would be good to find out it’s doing sod all then I can put my standard bonnet back on. [emoji106][emoji23]

If you can think of any other way to check let me know


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
Guess the simplest way now that the bonnet is fitted is to attach ribbons on the bonnet near and around the vent and watch the airflow. Also get a k type thermocouple in the engine bay and log the temps at various crusing speeds with the vent taped up. Then repeat with the vent untaped.

Without getting some pretty expensive pressure transducers or Pitot tubes I think these will be your most basic tests. Ultimately as long as you get a consistent reduction in temps then it’s doesn’t really matter how you achieve it. 🙂
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
Guess the simplest way now that the bonnet is fitted is to attach ribbons on the bonnet near and around the vent and watch the airflow. Also get a k type thermocouple in the engine bay and log the temps at various crusing speeds with the vent taped up. Then repeat with the vent untaped.

Without getting some pretty expensive pressure transducers or Pitot tubes I think these will be your most basic tests. Ultimately as long as you get a consistent reduction in temps then it’s doesn’t really matter how you achieve it. [emoji846]

The only other thing I worry about is with extra air going into the bay from other paths is that the air pressure through the cooling packs could be reduced, but the pressure there is super high? So that wouldn’t happen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
You have the most pressure there at the front of the car. As long as the cooling pack is tight, Ie all rads/coolers close to eachother then you should be good. If you start spacing them from one another then the air spills out the sides. Keep them tight and if possible, box them in.
If you can get the hot air out of the bay and reduce under bonnet pressure then it will only help all the front cooling pack by helping to draw air through the cores.
Hope I’m making sense as I’ve a habit of rambling about this crap. 😂
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
You have the most pressure there at the front of the car. As long as the cooling pack is tight, Ie all rads/coolers close to eachother then you should be good. If you start spacing them from one another then the air spills out the sides. Keep them tight and if possible, box them in.
If you can get the hot air out of the bay and reduce under bonnet pressure then it will only help all the front cooling pack by helping to draw air through the cores.
Hope I’m making sense as I’ve a habit of rambling about this crap. [emoji23]

Yep I understand that mate, everything is mega tight so good in that area. Am I right I’m thinking if I put ribbon onto the bonnet in front of the vent, if they get pushed into the duct then it’s clear it’s doing something, if they just flap about over it it’s a bin job? [emoji23] don’t worry about rambling.. any info in this area is greatly appreciated, it’s a bit of a dark art!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
If there are telltales on the bonnet and they lay flat in the bonnet then you’ll see the air pressure is holding them flat.
If they stand up and dance then the air there isn’t clean and low pressure.

Then try and log some temps if you can. 🙂
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
If there are telltales on the bonnet and they lay flat in the bonnet then you’ll see the air pressure is holding them flat.
If they stand up and dance then the air there isn’t clean and low pressure.

Then try and log some temps if you can. [emoji846]

Works!! Definitely air flow into the duct, tried ribbons.. they push into the hole. Need to do some actual temp readings but don’t have any probes.

I’m also really glad I’ve put a hole in my bonnet coming into winter, I enjoy stuffing a cloth in the hole every night [emoji2957]

Think I’ll put my original bonnet back on until the next track day!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
d1d71fed7ca65babb56527da6802d5f7.jpg


Fitted my custom pro alloy radiator last week, huge difference in size. Quite a squeeze but it went well.. actually had the pattern designed from a 38mm aftermarket radiator, so now I have a 50mm core and triple cores.. when I removed the OEM radiator I actually realised it’s quite a bit smaller than the aftermarket radiator I used for the pattern so it’s actually a very big step up in size!!

Also this happened today...
81ef49e99f765dbe69f65cdffc9dd2fd.jpg

418121d2bdaf444e07adcd211d44a483.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
Did Bedford autodrome this weekend 12/12/20 had a great day, although very frustrating due to the wrong tyre choice..

Went out on the sighting laps behind my friend in his 182 and noticed straight away I may as well have had tea trays under my rear tyres.. literally ZERO grip. Also zero turn in ability and even the smallest of steering inputs would have me sliding around. He seemed far more planted.

Anyway after trying my hardest to not spin on the sighting lap, I went out and tried getting some heat into the tyres.. didn’t happen! [emoji23][emoji23]

Luckily the Marshalls weren’t too worried about my slow motion sliding so just cracked on. The most annoying day because I love the feel of serious dry grip and it would have been pretty untouchable as it’s hideously quick.. so R888R tyres on a Clio in the wet on slippery rubber lines. Pointless [emoji23]

Car performed amazingly and got me there and back 4hrs to Devon (beast)
b29b6405d9b20ecc587dff6ce9caea8c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
0f5d6ae89eed074a06e5055506603b7b.jpg

89d1402616a8b233dfc4e69ff1ad3e0b.jpg


T25 4 bolt flanges can f**k off!! No matter what I do with bracing, exotic fasteners, locking washers, wire etc these will not stay tight.... the turbo doesn’t move when it happens as the bracing is doing its thing but they come loose after every track day!

Sooooo... Billet V band manifold and V Band turbo housing is happening. I’m not a fan of huge tubular manifolds engulfing the engine bay and causing unnecessary heat. Also they aren’t much good at not cracking either!

Early design stages so far but it’s looking very promising and can be done in the same dimensions as the ED log manifold but with much better flow and separation of number 1 & 4 trying to feed each other fire!! [emoji23][emoji23]

Stay tuned for more
48543bce940a3e7524afabfc10e9e42f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
3a52f5e843aa51744a358c792820f512.jpg

This week I are mostly repairing my LSD.. nothing major, after 5 years of track work and daily driving it just needs some new pre tension spring washers!

Great guys at RSX sent me a kit with bolts for nothing all the way from Spain and it came quicker than UK delivery!

182940ccccad1efa31e5ae5e0098001c.jpg


Car is currently getting some much needed TLC, uprated (uprated) clutch, new rear main oil seal and the v band turbo manifold.. nice to have it off the road at this time of year too [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
2de8efd69f3b3613a5185ec959c6498b.jpg

8eaf5ac048eab9b2a200af71255d7529.jpg

6d1846d68395b68f72f1204fecc46c53.jpg

269af4d59cd516f7233ad7cc39c4e5cf.jpg

Re sealed the main bearing cap today, it’s done 17 year and was just starting to weep, injected the sealant into the groove as per factory spec.. lovely seeing ooooze out! Also very nice to see the main bearings are in near new condition. Glad 12million oil changes a year are working!

New rear main too.. and thought I’d take a pic of the Megane 265 pistons and rods still looking sexy with the ARP bolts!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
Bit more progress on the stubby vband log manifold..
 

Attachments

  • 0031B550-A583-4F10-A6F5-BD5E46483CCE.jpeg
    0031B550-A583-4F10-A6F5-BD5E46483CCE.jpeg
    145.2 KB · Views: 129
  • 7B21A1DB-04D1-4FA5-93A7-EF49839220CF.jpeg
    7B21A1DB-04D1-4FA5-93A7-EF49839220CF.jpeg
    156.5 KB · Views: 115
  • E1A2C1B8-20CA-4B6F-8596-2E7E16C6106A.jpeg
    E1A2C1B8-20CA-4B6F-8596-2E7E16C6106A.jpeg
    145.2 KB · Views: 131
  • C0295420-9689-4604-87B4-28ADF114187B.jpeg
    C0295420-9689-4604-87B4-28ADF114187B.jpeg
    97.8 KB · Views: 114
  • 2BDAD96A-D52B-444B-9C93-C0D06B55C3FD.jpeg
    2BDAD96A-D52B-444B-9C93-C0D06B55C3FD.jpeg
    126.8 KB · Views: 120
  • 0E544D51-8FCC-4845-B681-77EB14932C2D.jpeg
    0E544D51-8FCC-4845-B681-77EB14932C2D.jpeg
    141.8 KB · Views: 133

incy-spider

ClioSport Club Member
Nice to see some progress on it mate.

Who did the manifold?

Mate I of mine is an engineer. We’ve been looking at different ways to get it to flow better but the only way would be a sidewinder, and I’m not a fan.. we are looking at dropping in a splitter to stop cross flow from 1 - 4 which may be incorporated when we weld on the v band flange


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Radugns

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 ph2
Really nice manifold. I wish I can have one, looks spot on and for sure it will flow better. But how much better,not sure.
If that guy can make another one with t25 flange,tell me:)

Thanks,
Radu
 


Top