Holy shight!
Haha no mate it's okay I know it needs to be a lot quicker ! Yes I think it does but that won't be seen until next year I doubt as a lot of time will come from the changes over winter! Thanks mateOUCH that sucks!
I must admit, and I don't mean to be horrible in any way with this, but when we were at Anglesey I had honestly expected your car to fly off and leave me for dead lol.
I'm sure it's got a LOT more potential if the reliablity issues can be sorted, I hope they are with this last round of replacement parts
Good luck mate, hope to see it dominating at Donington
Yes Jonny all going on at the moment lol! I tried not to discount any options but chose the AST's because they are a known quantity and that is unfortunately what I need at the moment. There is no point in me going out trying to do things differently and failing as I can't keep ploughing the money into it if it doesn't work out so it was just a matter of getting the best compromiseEventful times mate. Why did you discount Billy's? Is TDF no longer running support for you?
No it isn't is it Mike I know it's really odd that they have the market to themselves for race suspension!Nothing is ever straight forward, it is pretty bizarre that the AST's are the only off the shelf option!
Jonny the only option for the mk2 is the B14s which I'd put in the same category as the KWs if not worse due to the lack of adjustable damping. They're good, but they're not race suspension. Anything that's remotely usable on the road is a compromise, FACT
Yes Nick thank you for the recommendation of Josh Definitely and from my point of view they are already miles better than my past experience with them Went for the AST Sportline 2's but going to run the PMS top mount and strut brace for now and then try and incorporate more castor over winterGlad you've gone down the AST route, you know they're proven so aside from the customer service aspect which will be sorted soon enough, they are a safe and quick bet! What ones did you go for?
Also regarding the full nut/bolt refresh, is it really worth it? Surely just spanner checking/torquing all the bolts would show the weak parts, on top of that isn't the things like bearings and moveable parts that's been the weak point?
Nick
I know what you mean Jonny but when I write it all up over winter and you see the pic's of what i'm changing and why then I think you'll agree that it's the easiest wayHave to agree with Nick on the re-bolt James, seems a little ott.
Which AST setup we talking by the way? Sportline 2 I assume if you're not thinking three way
Haha sorry Fred I was keeping it hush as I thought it might be a top level secret :rasp: But seriously thanks for everything you are doing for me !I'll edit it for BIGASH as he missed a bit, if he doesn't like the AST's then he's having these bad boys
I'm not sure how necessary the brace is really but I was advised by TDF to fit it so I guess there must be some advantage to it I don't want to offend those with the AST top mounts but they appear to be very fragile and I have heard this from many people so I have steered clear, they also only run to about 4 degree's Castor and I have been advised to run more than this so they wouldn't be sufficient. Also I don't really want to spend another £200 where I can just make the mod's over winter and it will only cost me a few bits of steel and paint Just a shame that I can't run decent castor until thenWhy not just go or the ast top mounts now as they will give you the castor options later down the line? Is the brace necessary btw, can't remember if Jay/Tony run one
Sorry Jonny I only saw the 'Fare point Tony' bit. I didn't realise they did any other types so thanks for that I will look into it and see if they would be simple to run The plan is to totally change the strut top so that wouldn't be an issue Thanks mateFare point Tony. James I don't mean the bogo ast mounts. They do some more substantial ones which require the struts adjusting. Chris looked at putting them on his Trophy before he sold it
Thanks mate yes it seemed the most logical solution! Yes no worries I will draw my idea tomorrow and post it up as i'm getting shouted at by the other half for not been in bed so got to dash lol! It will retain the PMS mounts and brace I have been advised to create a way of running 9 degree's but probably run between 7 and 8 depending on what we find when testing. Yes I do agree about the strut brace I just wonder as to how much they do when the car has cage pick up points to the turrets?Good to see your getting things sorted out, AST's are proven so suspension reliability should be no issue.
Your plans for winter, would you like to elaborate? Are you having custom top mounts made for winter or are tdf supplying you some of there touring car mounts Iv seen before and adjusting strut tops to suit, also what deg castor has been advised out of interest?
Edit, above post explains castor.
Pure braces are definitely worth there money, there the only strut brace I have seen that actually tie te strut tops together other than cup racer brace.
Nick 172
Are you sure the cup road cars have different lower arms? I have compared road cup arms and cup racer arms and there seems to be no difference other than Bushes? I am going to get them surveyed at a mates work as cup arms will be a better base to start from for modifying.
Surely you can't go too mad James with the castor, with our 172 Cup they have more castor than the other Clio range because of the lower arms plus I think with once our top mounts are fitted to max castor we'll be nearly touching the front of the side parts of the bumper.
Surely you can't go too mad James with the castor, with our 172 Cup they have more castor than the other Clio range because of the lower arms plus I think with once our top mounts are fitted to max castor we'll be nearly touching the front of the side parts of the bumper.
We use 182 cup arms
We use 182 cup arms
The most we can get out of our AST top mounts is 4degs, and this is not enough, 6-7 degs would be much better,
Thought they might be, but wasn't sure.
I have yet to see different arms on the 1*2's, IMO all the Renault claimed wider track & more castor is done in the hubs & wheel offset. I might be wrong but there are only 2 types, lower model arms with a different ARB arrangment and the generic 1*2 arms?
Without putting them all together, you'd never be able to tell anyway.
Thays what me and mike did last week. Hubs are same, arms are same width but have more castor.
So your saying the arms are all the same bar the cup which has offset holes for ball joint?
I was unaware they changed the rear track other than different offset wheel, in your thinking they must have made different stub axle's if that's the case as I would be very doubtfully if they changed the back axle for each model.
Im not sure if the pickup on the hub is different or on the shock TBH, didnt look for that.And your saying hubs only differ in the shocker pick up point?
Thanks Mark very kind offer But yes I dont think i'd fit lol! See what you think to the difference if you do end up swapping to the PMS kit!If you could fit in the driving seat of my cup you could experience a lot of castor mate, but somehow I think you may struggle!! Lol! I'm running Ast top mounts set to full castor and the front edge of the tyres is close to the bumper. Very nice to drive though.
Haha they certainly are a very nice bit of kit but make me start regretting my decision lol! It took long enough for me to make my mind up without having doubts nowIf you don't get those cup racer billys you're mental.
In the same breathe you're mental anyway lol
The various mk2 RS variants have got different stub axles as I found out when I went to replace mine. Makes a good 10-15mm difference to track width at the rear!I was unaware they changed the rear track other than different offset wheel, in your thinking they must have made different stub axle's if that's the case as I would be very doubtfully if they changed the back axle for each model.
So your saying the arms are all the same bar the cup which has offset holes for ball joint?
I was unaware they changed the rear track other than different offset wheel, in your thinking they must have made different stub axle's if that's the case as I would be very doubtfully if they changed the back axle for each model.
And your saying hubs only differ in the shocker pick up point?