TomoTek - 182 Track Build here we come!...

[NorthloopCup]

it just seemed to go on forever with no end in sight.

I can relate to that when I was doing the install of my engine in the cup mate.

 

[Tomotek]

I can relate to that when I was doing the install of my engine in the cup mate.

I can imagine, but your engine install gave me some well needed enthusiasm so thanks for sticking at it!

 

[NorthloopCup]

I can imagine, but your engine install gave me some well needed enthusiasm so thanks for sticking at it!

Lol really?! If you need anymore enthusiasm, look at the pics in the latest instalment!

 

[Tomotek]

#46

Finally sorted all the pics out for the wiring so here's the first lot!..

I started out with making the main battery cables.
I ordered some 25mm² black power cable with various sized crimp terminals and also ordered a 175A Mega fuse before the master switch to protect the system. The standard battery terminal has a built in fuse but due to the battery relocation and style of battery a replacement was needed.

I bought myself a terminal crimper. The hex style ones are a little more expensive, but they are the best tools ever when doing battery cables.. you get a perfect connection and can make the cables in minutes.

I made a short earth cable from the battery to the main chassis earth (which i pre-welded a threaded top hat into the cage base)

Mega Fuse bolted to the tunnel under the gearstick frame.

Mega fuse to battery kill switch

Battery kill switch cable to starter was then bolted to the tunnel

The battery cable was then passed through an earls rubber firewall grommet

The cable then runs over to the LH chassis rail to the 2 pin terminal block that I installed to allow one cable to run to the starter motor, and the other one runs up to the main engine bay fuse box for the main 12v supply to the car.
I covered the cable in some heat resistant sheathing to add some extra protection from the heat in the engine bay.

I managed to carefully separate the old starter cable crimp terminal from the standard cable so i could re use it.

I crimped the cable coming from the terminal block and also an additional cable that will run to the alternator into the starter terminal. I then heat shrinked the end to prevent it contacting anything and shorting out.

Starter to Alternator cable routing around the block.

The other cable from the terminal block spliced into 4 power cables going to the various main fuses.

I then gave the inside a clean out ready for the next stage of the electrical work. :up: - really happy with how all the power cables came out.. Next up was the engine bay and rear end looms. (Update to follow soon!)

 

[Tomotek]

#47

Onto the main electrical looms!.. I dug out the box's that i'd sealed up when i removed the loom from the car over 3 years ago!!..

I started off by pulling everything out and sorting it into front loom, rear loom and chassis loom piles.. Amazingly after 3 house moves I still had everything I needed!. The plan with the wiring is to use the standard ECU / Chassis UCH/ Fuse box and Decoder ring etc and to remove all the unnecessary wires to get some weight out of the loom.

The first job i decided on was tackling the engine bay loom. I started by removing all the cable wrap so i could start to follow all the cables and record what connector did what and where each cable ran. Then I could start to think about what I could remove.

Loom all stripped back and connectors labelled.

I then laid the loom into the engine bay so I could decide where I wanted to route the cables and to confirm which cables I could remove.
(It helped as my daily is also a clio 182 so I could also go and unplug the components I wanted to remove and check that everything else wasted affected)

Next step was to remove all the unwanted connectors and wires from the loom. I removed items such as:

ABS / Fog Lights / Horn / Heater Unit / Screen Wash / Pre Inlet / Wheel Speed Sensors / Rear Beam Loom / Post CAT lambda

The loom was then laid out as it would sit in the car so I could start to heat shrink it and label everything.
I made sure i took a picture of every connector and the wiring going into it as I needed to de-pin them all to be able to pass the wires through the heat shrink. This meant I could easily refit the connectors after

Bought myself a DYMO label maker and some clear heatshrink to label all the connectors, makes life easier when pulling the loom in and out .

The final product below!.. It looks so small now everything has been removed. Nice and neat to match the rest of the car now so i'm happy.

Engine loom all neatly routed and cable tied into the engine bay. just missing the ecu which i'll be dual locking to the LH shock tower.

 

[JamesBryan]

Tidy!

 

[Jamie86]

Looks great. Just need some yellow tape on the battery earth for msa

 

[scotiamr2t]

Good up date. The engine bay wiring is the next task I have on mine, already done all the interior loom

 

[AdamCup]

Top work Tomo !! Finally I can relieve myself [emoji23]

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[scruffydubber]

Inspirational thread @Tomotek
I was looking through some of the pictures and thought to myself I recognise that guy. I believe i worked with you at Mercedes (Gareth from R&D). I have a cup i use for track days, I didn't realise you had this.
Anyway great work, its unusual for a designer to get there hands dirty. I'll be watching for the updates.

 

[Chambers_RS]

Awesome work.

Don't suppose you’ve a picture of what tool you used to unpin the plug connectors?
I’ve ordered 2 laser tool sets but not sure if there going to be the right ones.

 

[Tomotek]

Looks great. Just need some yellow tape on the battery earth for msa :smile:

Thanks for the heads up mate. I wasn't sure if i needed it as the i thought the cable was "readily distinguishable" as the earth cable. Guess it won't hurt to put a yellow marker on anyway.

Good up date. The engine bay wiring is the next task I have on mine, already done all the interior loom

Cheers Scott, i'm just writing my update on the chassis looms now. have you decided on where you are going to pass the main chassis bulkhead plug? I remember you saying your cage was going to go through to the front strut towers like mine too.

Top work Tomo !! Finally I can relieve myself [emoji23]

Haha!.. enjoy!!.. I've got some more posts coming so you can save those for round 2! 😂

 

[scotiamr2t]

@Tomotek i cut a hole in the bulkhead below the wiper linkage and welded up a raised platform with the correct size hole for the bulkhead plug to locate into, it then allowed me to reuse the interior and engine bay plugs. I might have a picture, i'll have a look an stick it up if i do.

 

[Tomotek]

@scotiamr2t Sounds neat, yeah get a pic up!.. I relocated mine into the center of the car and went through the hole left from the heater unit.. Pics to come in my next few posts.

 

[Tomotek]

Inspirational thread @Tomotek
I was looking through some of the pictures and thought to myself I recognise that guy. I believe i worked with you at Mercedes (Gareth from R&D). I have a cup i use for track days, I didn't realise you had this.
Anyway great work, its unusual for a designer to get there hands dirty. I'll be watching for the updates.

Hi Gareth!, yes we did indeed work together!, I was upstairs doing pit equipment design, probably annoying you with those wheel guns, and jack accumulators!!. didn't realise you had a clio too! Have you done many track days in it?.. Thanks mate, and yeah I hear that a lot, I've always gotten my hands dirty from a young age though, Washing wheels and doing the fuel back when i started out working for a Formula Renault race team.

Awesome work.

Don't suppose you’ve a picture of what tool you used to unpin the plug connectors?
I’ve ordered 2 laser tool sets but not sure if there going to be the right ones.

Hi, thanks..
I just used a small precision screwdriver from my WERA set, and for the smaller connectors i used a embroidery pin.
Nothing special. (also a lot of patience to understand how they were clipped in, before attempting to de-pin them)

 

[Tomotek]

#48

Next job was to remove all the unnecessary wires from the rear loom.
I started by mapping out the whole rear loom and creating a wiring diagram in excel so I could work out what I wanted to remove and how I was going to rewire it, and also for future reference. (especially as one of my daily's is another clio 182 so thought it would come in handy)

Pre modified rear loom wiring diagram:

Modified ream loom:
I am using the central brake light in the spoiler as a rain light so rewired a separate feed to that from the connector.

Loom modified.
Everything in the bag is being kept and all the coiled wires were subsequently de-pinned from the connector.

Rear light wiring being mocked up and lengths adjusted to suit.

Split across to the fuel tank and up to the bulkhead also mocked up.

Rear Loom heat shrinked, earth attached to main chassis earth, and routing secured.

Loom looped over the left hand rear wheel arch to the rear right light. Then routed under the boot seal to the other side and ctr lights.

Fuel pump and sender unit wiring routed and cabled tied to the rear brake line.
Standard fuel tank cover re installed.

That's it for the ream loom, onto the main chassis loom now! 😅

 

[JamesBryan]

This is too nice to race :anguished:

 

[Tomotek]

@JamesBryan - haha, nothings too nice to race! :stig: ... I just might have to shed a few more tears before I rebuild it if something happens, that's all.

 

[JamesBryan]

I'd cry if it got damaged 😂

 

[Tomotek]

#49

Onto the chassis harness!!..

Following the same theme as my previous posts, I wanted to lighten the loom and remove all the unnecessary electrical units and associated wiring.

I started out by listing all the components I wanted to keep:
UCH / Fuse Box / Key Decoder Ring / Brake switch / TPS / Dash / Front Wiper / Head Lights / Tail Lights / Rain Light (rear fog wiring)

Then i thought about what extra electrical components / Wiring mods i wanted to add:
Heated Front screen / USB charger (phone timing) / Intercom / Fuel Pump Override / Fan Override / Driver Cooling Fan / Extinguisher Button / Switch Panel / Ignition switch / Starter Switch / Rain Light.

Now I had a plan in my head I started to interrogate the chassis loom.
I've heard so many stories of people lightening the looms and then having issues starting the car etc so i really wanted to understand the loom and how it all worked.

I started by removing all the fuses one by one on my daily to see their effect and which ones caused the car to not start etc, before deciding on which ones i wanted to keep / remove.

I kept the heated rear window fuse and wiring and planned on re routing the wiring to the front screen.
I also kept the rear fog fuse and wiring to use for the rear rain light.

I brought the chassis loom inside to work on it as the missus was complaining of how much time i was spending in the garage haha. Least with the loom in the house i could nod and smile and pretend I was listening :tongueclosed:

I fully stripped back the loom and recorded where every wire went. Lets just say the loom was in the house for quick a few weeks doing this!.

All the pin outs recorded for future reference. (I do intend at some point in making an excel file like the rear loom one for it, when I find some time)

I removed all the redundant wires from the loom and this is what I was left with!.. not much too it now!.. Just the small task of fitting it in the car now to see if it all works before I make all my other modifications to it for my extra devices.

All the removed wires!. nearly filled the box that it was all stored in in the first place.

I loosely fitted everything into the car and connected all the looms together.

Got the extinguisher to hand and powered her up for the first time!.. few clicks and some buzzing and we had some lights on the dash!
Well a lot of lights actually! 😂

I disconnected the fuel supply from the rail and cranked the engine to get oil pressure before attempting to start the car.

I then attempted to start the car but got nothing more than the sound of the starter cranking. After a quick plug in to the RS tuner it became obvious what was wrong. The engine speed was showing 0rpm on cranking, I had forgotten to plug in the crank sensor!.. once plugged back in the car finally fired into life!!!... surprisingly well actually after being sat for a few years.
(at this point i still had the ignition barrel in the car to test everything, I intend on removing this and using the switch panel)

Little vid of the moment it turned over for the first time!, I was actually shaking I was that excited haha!

** Video Link **

Now i had the stressful part over I could start to tidy up the chassis loom and decide on where all the components would sit and then route all the wiring accordingly. As the normal hole for the main bulkhead connector between the cockpit and engine bay was now full of rollcage tube I had to think about where I would pass the wires through instead. After some deliberation it was decided to pass it through the hole left behind from the heater unit, under the scuttle panel.

I then decided that the UCH and fuse box will mount to the bulkhead somewhere like this:

Now my OCD had kicked in and I needed to sort all these random length wires out!!

Quick chop, lengthen/shorten and re solder/insulate

Mods to the fuse box when removing the ignition barrel. Making use of the redundant clips already in there.
I also added a new ignition relay, this enabled me to use a low current switch on the switch panel to turn the car on and off.

Harness starting to look a lot neater!, with all my extra wiring finished.

Chassis loom all heat shrinked, wrapped and labelled up ready to go back into the car.

The bare wires below are all the signal wires for the switch panel which will be terminated into a connector at a later stage.

To seal off the old heater hole and to mount the loom bulkhead connector I fabricated an aluminium plate with foam strips to attach to the shell. The black duct on the right is part of my cockpit cooling ducting which I have planned for a later date.

Bulkhead connector bolted to the sealing plate. Cables looking a lot neater than before!

Loom was brought into the car to be secured and the sealing plate was bolted to the old heater hole.

View from above under the scuttle panel.

Chassis loom nearly in, I just need to fabricate a little aluminium plate for the UCH and fuse box to attach to which will then be secured to the bulkhead in the positions below:

I also need to heatshrink the rear loom wires and secure the connector as I had to extend them to reach the new location of the other components.

Dash temporarily mounted and wiring secured

To say I was Chuffed to finally have the wiring in and the engine running was an understatement!

 

[Daz...]

I would usually be surprised at the detail in the wiring, but it matches the work put into the rest of the car. Brilliant stuff!

 

[JamesBryan]

Never seen so much detail on wiring go into a car this side of a GT/DTM car penmouth:

 

[Rubicon_]

Your skills are never ending, brilliant work and detail!

 

[scotiamr2t]

good update. I'm starting the engine loom on mine next week, hate wiring but looking forward to simplifying it all!

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

Awsomness


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

So can we expect a detailed guide on how to simplify and chop the loom?

 

[Nafoff]

interested to know where you saw the link on facebook.. Thanks for taking the time to read it, and for your kind words. I definitely took inspiration from everyone elses threads through the years to try to keep up the enthusiasm myself!. It got tough at times, especially during the fabricating stage as it just seemed to go on forever with no end in sight. It all came together pretty quickly after that though.

I am afraid I can't remember where I saw the link or what the subject matter was. sorry.
I think I am going to be taking inspiration from the cage first, I have been advised to triangulate to the rear turrets and rear axle mounts.... I think as you say the fabrication stage is going to take a while.

Lovely work on the loom, I have exactly the same image of me sat on the floor with the whole interior loom. ha. Must be such a relief to hear it crank.

 

[Akay]

Wow, awesome work there! Im in the process of stripping a loom back but have yet to de-pin every redundant plug.

Can you go into a little more detail on the fusebox mods for the starting?

Cheers.

 

[AdamCup]

Definitely the best build on this forum and my favourite by far. The attention to detail and thought process that is being put into this is second to none. Any idea how much you've spent on it so far ? Or are you not counting [emoji23]

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[Tomotek]

Morning chaps.

@Daz... @Arran_ @pule333
Thanks for all the positive comments! It's always nice to log back in and read that everyone appreciates the work being put it. Means a lot.

@scotiamr2t
Hope the engine loom mods go well for you mate. I'm not a huge fan of wiring either, especially now haha! hopefully it's a while before I have to tackle some more. Just one of those jobs that's time consuming, but can be quite rewarding in the end when everything works as you want it to.

Never seen so much detail on wiring go into a car this side of a GT/DTM car penmouth:

Cheers mate, just wanted it to match the rest of the car.. Can you tell the 3yrs I had designing GT cars has rubbed off a little? :tongueclosed:

 

[Tomotek]

So can we expect a detailed guide on how to simplify and chop the loom? :wink:

Maybe I'll write something up over christmas when I have a bit more time on my hands.. If it would be useful to people that is?. (feel free to ask any questions you have anyway though)

Can you go into a little more detail on the fusebox mods for the starting?

Hi there, yeah I can put something together to explain how I removed the ignition barrel and wired in the push buttons etc. I'll write something up next week and get it posted.

@ph-reebone
No worries mate, was just curious that's all, its nice to know its being shared outside the cliosport forum :up: ..
That's what the threads here for, give people ideas. Yeah it was by far the longest stage for me.. I wire wheeled the shell too with @Jenbo so we know your pain too well! haha. Stick at it tho and it will be done before you know it!.

Oh mate for sure! Music to my ears when it started!!!

 

[Tomotek]

Definitely the best build on this forum and my favourite by far. The attention to detail and thought process that is being put into this is second to none. Any idea how much you've spent on it so far ? Or are you not counting [emoji23]

Hi Adam, I don't know if its the best build, but i certainly won't complain if you think it is :tonguewink: haha!.. So thanks

OOOh what a question!. . .
I'd say we have spend an 'adequate amount'. Myself and @Jenbo have a 50:50 split cost agreement which works out well for us both. We both value quality/fit & finish above most things hence the lengthy build time.

I guess we have just prioritised building the car we want rather than a car that's 'good enough' :up:

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

I think stripping back the wiring is a scary job for a lot of people (myself included!) so a good guide would definitely be useful!

 

[Tony Hunter]

Good progress.

 

[scullyg40]

Gongrats on the running engine. I can understand how happy you were, as I got my car running again after having starting issues after cutting back the loom. Although I am finished with my loom, it is very interesting to see how you approached it. I figure you need to keep the UCH for some of the components you are keeping/adding? Since I have removed mine completely.
It's been said before, but thanks for putting this all up. It is very nice to read your thread. Keep up the good work. :up:

 

[Tomotek]

Good progress.

Thanks Tony

Gongrats on the running engine. I can understand how happy you were, as I got my car running again after having starting issues after cutting back the loom. Although I am finished with my loom, it is very interesting to see how you approached it. I figure you need to keep the UCH for some of the components you are keeping/adding? Since I have removed mine completely.
It's been said before, but thanks for putting this all up. It is very nice to read your thread. Keep up the good work. :up:

Cheers, It is a daunting task isn't it!.. Yeah i've kept the UCH as some of the components like the heated front screen, dash features, intercom etc all run off the internal relays etc. And thanks again, glad your enjoying the thread.

 

[Tomotek]

#50
Final chapter on the wiring!

Thought i'd put up a quick post on the switch panel I made. I started out by listing all the switches I needed and might need in the future and then positioned them in excel where I would want them on the panel.

I intend on making some custom stickers to easily identify each switch, following the basic colour scheme below:

I ordered various styles of push button off ebay. These included blue/black illuminated latching buttons as well as green/black momentary push buttons. Each one chosen for its required function.

I then taped up my carbon panel and marked out where I would drill the holes for the buttons

Then using a 12mm wood drill bit I drilled through the carbon sheet (a wood drill bit makes a clean single cut which works well on carbon)

I then mounted all the switches in the desired locations and stuck some labels on (labels I took from an old MSA sticker sheet i had lying about, hence why some of them don't make sense. I intend on doing my own stickers at some point)

After that was all mocked up I started to cut some signal wires ready to solder to the switches. I used the same colour code as the excel sheet to help me identify which wire is which when I connect them to the plug on the chassis loom.

Halve way through the wiring process.

Wiring all finished, with the signal wires and earth wires done for the main switches and then the power wires for the internal LEDs.
These wires are then secured to the switches with a section of heat shrink, then hot glued over the terminals to insulate them and prevent the wires from being damaged.

Switch Panel bolted to the frame:

Heat shrunk and pinned into the connector and connected to the chassis loom. (just need to secure the connectors to the tunnel)
I temporarily wired the LED power wires to the battery cut off switch to check everything worked as it should.

Switch Panel Done.

With the wiring all done it was time to setup the car and get it on track!!!!. . . .

 

[bashracing]

The workmanship is just immense, you should be very proud.

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

Better than p**n! Period
Quick question tho, for the heated screen what amp switch did you use?
I am making my own panel at the moment and must confess it was heavily influenced by your design.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tomotek]

The workmanship is just immense, you should be very proud.

Thanks!.. we are pretty proud of it so far, just want to learn to drive it on the limit, make it quicker and hopefully get some trophies in it!

Better than p**n! Period :smile:
Quick question tho, for the heated screen what amp switch did you use?
I am making my own panel at the moment and must confess it was heavily influenced by your design. :smile:

Hi mate, thanks.. I reused the heated rear screen wiring and the 30amp fuse.. oh yeah?!, should I be sending my copyright lawyers round Haha