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this interest me a lot as these block are both cheaper and easier to get hold of than a 5gt block. Also they kick out enough standard to make a clio reasonably fun. Malice or whoever has one, how about a write up, please!
if the car was sitting a while whilst you were working on it, they might just have drained a little, run it till warm to see if it goes away, they are louder for a while if engine hasnt been running for a few days, these hoses shouldnt have afected it at all
reverse flush your radiator and heater matrix (put hose through it in opposite direction of coolant flow, put in new proper mixed coolant , a low temp thermostat and a new water pump. i did this and car runs massively cooler. Suspect a reverse flush and the new coolant did wonders, try this for...
get a scrap sierra and cut transmission tunnel out and weld into a clio shell, then you could make strut towers to take front struts, locate it with rosebushed arms. It is alot of work but this is the common way to install rwd in a non rwd shell, would be loads of fun, a tranaxle from an alpina...
to properly flush block, undo block drain hose which is under exhaust manifold, awkward to get to but possible, think its 15mm and its on crankshaft (drivers side) pulley end of engine. I changed my water pump and put a low temp thermostat from bbpt. Car now runs at first quarter to half, rather...
the nut is for locking it, to actually tighten it you need a 7mm allen key (not a common size), 2live right though, remove headlamp for a bit of space, also a 10mm nut to detach wiring loom from inner wing, you can then swivel it up for space, have fun
mine used to do this, and it was the cap and rotor arm! got the Hillpower ignition kit (magnecor leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap and new platinum plugs) with club discount it was about £70 odd which is quite good since the leads are expensive on thier own. however a cap and arm wont be much from...
when you dissconnected the gerachange linkage rod, did you detach it at the end or did you undo the pinch bolt and remove it there, cause if you did you might have lost the correct adjustment on this. This could be another reason it wont go into forward gear if it wasnt put back in same position
I never put mine back on my valver as I have found it a trap for leaves, gunk and general rot promoting crap. Cant be sure about the cooling as I put new coolant, water pump and low temp thermostat on, but in my opinion it probably wont make much difference if any at all. Radiator still get...
Ok see your point lads, but to be honest I ran without one for a couple of years and then last years or so with my home made one which does look ok. The dot 5.1 fluid i use has a dry bp of 365C (in use probably does boil below or around 250 so I know what you mean), which is a few hundred...
take yoour front bumper off, only two bolts and one nut behind number plate. Then turn it upside down and lower splitter onto bottom of spoiler. It needs to be shortened and also cut at the corners to allow it to bend to shape, trial and error, just take your time
Slightly disagree with you there nick, engine bay gets very warm its unaviodable, however most of the heat from the manifold will be radiated which means a shiny surface will reflect a large amont of it. The convected heat from manifold is unavoidable and will be there anyway. Honestly reckon a...
NA engines suck there air in, its not pressurised in, so he is talking complete and utter bollock. Your head gasket went cause it was either overheated or gasket or block/head surface became perforated due to no corrosion protection etc
I made one from aluminium plate (do a search or look in my gallery), which can be polished up or painted with a reflective paint covering, works great, looks better, wont rust and will last ages. Might make a few more for people with the plate I have left, if anybody interested? Will look into it
Yep also it might be wise to strengthen it before you make the cut, so as the shell wont sag, R u sure its worth it, try position intercooler someplace else, do a cut out in bumper and then put grill over that
DIY the are awkward but not impossible to work on, I took engine out to change my blown head gasket so could do a couple of other things also, its is more time consuming and annoying rather than being particularily difficult
mounts are weak point, try changing gearbox rear link, or dogbone as its commonly refered to, its the usual culprit, but other twoi mounts go also, just dont seem to wear as quickly
mine failed this also, strip the slides out of calipers, slap in a pile of copaslip and put back together, that got mine through, they always seize, but i got mine going again despite seal being finished and surface rust (wee sand with fine emery paper) on slides, will last a while!
what does everybody think of my drilled aluminium on the wee air intake on bumper, was a pain in the arse marking and drilling them, so hope i aint wasted my time
Pics at last, sorry for taking so long, but had string of probs
http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1082571286__splitter2.jpg
http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1082571628__splitter3.jpg
had hassles with this when last had downpipe off, sealing ring is easily put on squint, new one from reno is £12 and is worth while as its a futere seal
wouldnt worry about it, changed mine at 89k, previouslt done at 65k, was quiote contaminated but it is kinda enevitable and not worth worrying about as a bit of dirt and oil happens, just change the belt