Lifters arrived yet? Engine assembled yet? Updates?
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Lifters are here, head is back with my machining guy to have the clearances set. Should be back this week. Bottom end is together, but waiting on the sump (4 week wait from forge!) that's about it. Too busy with work to even look at mine currently.
Should update this really, bottom end built, head back from having the Lash adjusters machined. Sump arrived from forge. Just waiting on the manual tensioner and ARP camshaft bolt from Integrated engineering, and a new cam chain tensioner.
Box of electrical bits turned up from simtek, stuff like heat shrink, plugs, and a Neptune connector to do a bulkhead break point.
Currently debating ripping out the loom and rewiring the whole car from scratch with a modular fuse box.
Box of electrical bits turned up from simtek, stuff like heat shrink, plugs, and a Neptune connector to do a bulkhead break point.
Currently debating ripping out the loom and rewiring the whole car from scratch with a modular fuse box.
Oh..
It's ready
The ARP Camshaft bolt turned up, along with the integrated engineering manual cambelt tensioner.
Having a day off soon, so @Stopherson is coming up and going to help me get it in the bay.
Also bought a modular fuse and relay box to completely rewire the car so loosing the UCH etc.
It's ready
The ARP Camshaft bolt turned up, along with the integrated engineering manual cambelt tensioner.
Having a day off soon, so @Stopherson is coming up and going to help me get it in the bay.
Also bought a modular fuse and relay box to completely rewire the car so loosing the UCH etc.
Clio 172 turbo
Ideal I'll try and remember my GoPro and we can time laps it
Looking good mate
Well @Stopherson came up a few weeks back to Give me a hand and to get his MOT done. So we cracked on with the cup.
No pictures taken, but the subframe got welded up a bit more substantially this time, so no cracking! Then we set about getting the new engine in. And these are the only 2 pics for the day lol.
I've bought a pipe bender and some pipe to attempt hard piping the intercooler, but it just seems to want to kink no matter what I do tried the usually compacting with sand but it didn't work.
Gear Cables are off at speedy cables to be made longer, other than that it's wiring and fluid systems and we're Ready to go!
No pictures taken, but the subframe got welded up a bit more substantially this time, so no cracking! Then we set about getting the new engine in. And these are the only 2 pics for the day lol.
I've bought a pipe bender and some pipe to attempt hard piping the intercooler, but it just seems to want to kink no matter what I do
tried the usually compacting with sand but it didn't work.Gear Cables are off at speedy cables to be made longer, other than that it's wiring and fluid systems and we're Ready to go!
Gear cables are back. Booked in this week with my welder fab guy to make the centre console for the selector tower and switch panel etc. And hopefully enough time to get the hard piping done on the intercooler.
On another note, the bilsteins have been sold, and I've purchased these..
On another note, the bilsteins have been sold, and I've purchased these..
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
It's about time you got your finger out tbqfh. :wink:Gear cables are back. Booked in this week with my welder fab guy to make the centre console for the selector tower and switch panel etc. And hopefully enough time to get the hard piping done on the intercooler.
On another note, the bilsteins have been sold, and I've purchased these..
Today's pictured progress..
Hard piping done.
Hard piping done.
You've definitely been taking this star wars thing too far.
Great progress
Great progress
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Gear cables are all fine, done by cable-tec in the end. Bit expensive and because of the outer cable they've used its lost some of its flexibility, which means my original routing now doesn't work, so I'll need to address that next.
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
Yeh the slam panel is there for moral support more than anything else lol
I'm trying to get some stuff done at SAS welding (after noticing you use them previously).
They are very busy - which is always a good sign! Handy to have a company with those skills on your doorstep.
They are very busy - which is always a good sign! Handy to have a company with those skills on your doorstep.
What you wanting doing mate?
Bit more done.
Centre console, in pictures it does look very high, but I can't seem to get an angle that actually portrays where it is. It's a bit higher than I planned, but sadly handbrake functionality denoted it was this high. It's inlu actually about an inch higher than the centre of the wheel.
Brake and clutch reservoirs fit nicely inside.
Switch panel (not finished, needs the sides welding on but we ran out of time today)
I've also sorted a panel for the swirl pot and fuel pump, and a checker plate floor pan to cover the master cylinders.
Centre console, in pictures it does look very high, but I can't seem to get an angle that actually portrays where it is. It's a bit higher than I planned, but sadly handbrake functionality denoted it was this high. It's inlu actually about an inch higher than the centre of the wheel.
Brake and clutch reservoirs fit nicely inside.
Switch panel (not finished, needs the sides welding on but we ran out of time today)
I've also sorted a panel for the swirl pot and fuel pump, and a checker plate floor pan to cover the master cylinders.
The engine mount cradle has cracked and come away on my 306 Rallye so it needs a plate fabricating and welding in. I'll get in touch with him again after Xmas is out of the way but by all means give him a nudge if you don't mind if you're seeing him again this week.
I could do with a custom downpipe and exhaust on my 205 in the spring so will probably look to have him knock one up.
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Is that not going to hurt like fcuk if you have a whack on track??Bit more done.
Centre console, in pictures it does look very high, but I can't seem to get an angle that actually portrays where it is. It's a bit higher than I planned, but sadly handbrake functionality denoted it was this high. It's inlu actually about an inch higher than the centre of the wheel.
Brake and clutch reservoirs fit nicely inside.
Switch panel (not finished, needs the sides welding on but we ran out of time today)
I've also sorted a panel for the swirl pot and fuel pump, and a checker plate floor pan to cover the master cylinders.
No more than a door bar on a roll cage. But in honesty it's all rounded edges, so tbh there would be more pain from stuff like the harnesses
H
hes closed for xmas now, but I've given him a nudge anyway
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
How high is the gear lever when your hand is on it to select gear mate?
Maybe a side on shot with your hand on the steering wheel and one on your gear lever would give you a good pic. You'll obviously need an assistant to take the pic though!
Maybe a side on shot with your hand on the steering wheel and one on your gear lever would give you a good pic. You'll obviously need an assistant to take the pic though!
About an inch higher than the centre of the wheel. So I'll be moving my hand up very marginally.
fixedgear
ClioSport Club Member
What's the latest Dan?
I was down a few weeks ago and sorted the rear loom out, Dan made the front loom, fuse box etc.
Planning on going down for another day on it ASAP and hopefully we can get the last few bits done - then it's start up time.
I will add that the gearstick position is actually alright - you think it is really high, but when you're sat in the seat it actually feels nice - a little different but not bad in any way.
Planning on going down for another day on it ASAP and hopefully we can get the last few bits done - then it's start up time.
I will add that the gearstick position is actually alright - you think it is really high, but when you're sat in the seat it actually feels nice - a little different but not bad in any way.
Evo 5 RS
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
I can fill those shoes...
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Looks like you mean business. LolLike so :wink:
Steering wheel has moved back 60mm since that pic.
I didn't actually know he'd taken a picture lol
Mega update I guess!!
It'll be very brief as I haven't got many pics.
Engine was in, then I set about wiring:
Then did the interior loom (no pics) but did set it up so I can have mains only (just as a 'I'm coming' setting on track after having a few near misses with people underestimating my approach speed.
DASH2 wired up and functional.
Total weight.
Then it was onto running in and mapping. Unfortunately this didn't go to plan.
After running in and an oil change I started doing the low end mapping. This all went well. Decided to try a couple of gate pressure runs. First pull with a footballer map (rich and retarded) did 249 at 0.6bar peak. Tweaked the fuel table and started another in which I noticed a rattle on the way up so immediately killed the ignition and got out to investigate.
With the Fuchs Titan race pro being red, the dyno cell looked like a murder scene. Nice spray mark right up the wall. And about 3L on the floor. ****. Set about investigation as to what had failed. Then noticed the oil filter had pulled off on 1 side. (This would explain the lack of oil pressure lights!) as it was still pumping but not enough pressure to sustain clearance from 3krpm. But why had this happened? Well, turns out the local Audi specialists parts lady had given me the wrong part. It was too small to notice the thread was different (M18 against 3/4unf.) - about 1mm difference, which would explain why I didn't notice it. So in urgency I popped over to the local factors and found the cheapest m18 oil filter I could. Just so I could start it and see if the motor had survived. It had thank god. But I called it a day to pull the sump off and inspect, rather safe than sorry! Upon inspection all the shells were scrap. However the crank was unharmed.
Then managed to get a set of mains and big ends of King racing bearings from TSR. Fitted them and have done about 50 road miles with it. All seemed well so booked the dyno again. Took it up to the dyno and started doing the mapping again. Did a base run that came out at 246, then added 3 degrees of timing, 269, then another 3 and got 304. Cleared the screen and went to get another run. This time 298. But noticed a rattle. Argh!!! This time it was box related. Pulled the end cap off the box to be greeted by a snapped circlip. Well atleast it was an easy fix. Hopefully!! Circlip a due tomorrow AM.
Here's a pic of the power graph. Happy with that at 0.6bar!
It'll be very brief as I haven't got many pics.
Engine was in, then I set about wiring:
Then did the interior loom (no pics) but did set it up so I can have mains only (just as a 'I'm coming' setting on track after having a few near misses with people underestimating my approach speed.
DASH2 wired up and functional.
Total weight.
Then it was onto running in and mapping. Unfortunately this didn't go to plan.
After running in and an oil change I started doing the low end mapping. This all went well. Decided to try a couple of gate pressure runs. First pull with a footballer map (rich and retarded) did 249 at 0.6bar peak. Tweaked the fuel table and started another in which I noticed a rattle on the way up so immediately killed the ignition and got out to investigate.
With the Fuchs Titan race pro being red, the dyno cell looked like a murder scene. Nice spray mark right up the wall. And about 3L on the floor. ****. Set about investigation as to what had failed. Then noticed the oil filter had pulled off on 1 side. (This would explain the lack of oil pressure lights!) as it was still pumping but not enough pressure to sustain clearance from 3krpm. But why had this happened? Well, turns out the local Audi specialists parts lady had given me the wrong part. It was too small to notice the thread was different (M18 against 3/4unf.) - about 1mm difference, which would explain why I didn't notice it. So in urgency I popped over to the local factors and found the cheapest m18 oil filter I could. Just so I could start it and see if the motor had survived. It had thank god. But I called it a day to pull the sump off and inspect, rather safe than sorry! Upon inspection all the shells were scrap. However the crank was unharmed.
Then managed to get a set of mains and big ends of King racing bearings from TSR. Fitted them and have done about 50 road miles with it. All seemed well so booked the dyno again. Took it up to the dyno and started doing the mapping again. Did a base run that came out at 246, then added 3 degrees of timing, 269, then another 3 and got 304. Cleared the screen and went to get another run. This time 298. But noticed a rattle. Argh!!! This time it was box related. Pulled the end cap off the box to be greeted by a snapped circlip. Well atleast it was an easy fix. Hopefully!! Circlip a due tomorrow AM.
Here's a pic of the power graph. Happy with that at 0.6bar!
