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Uprated rear shockers will make no difference what so ever. By lowering your car this much you are serverely limiting the distance at which the shockers can work over. They can only absorb bumps and damp the movement in the beam if they can turn the linear movement of the piston in the body into...
sounds like cable stuck/frayed around the exit of the plastic housing. Take your airbox/induction kit off and with the throttle closed check the butterfly is actually closed ie vertical. then push the pedal slowly to the floor (engine off, obviously) and see if the throttle opens in proportion...
Bushes (roll bar inner and outer, wishbone). Rod ends, ball joints, driveshafts, gearboxoil change. Check anything you can see! Handbrake cables are a favourite if your gonna venture that far back, then fuel filter and then rear end stuff...
This list can be endless on our cars!! All depends...
Theres no way you can tell how siezed they are just by looking at them. Chances are if they havnt ever been out then they will be pretty tight-with a decent size slide hammer (I use a driveshaft puller-works a treat) you can get almost any bars out.
WD will help but its got nowhere to go...
With a new(ish) car like that 106 GTI, whats the history gonna tell you? That some garage somewhere has change the oil every now and then and maybe remove-inspect-replace (the old) brake pads???!!! Older cars fair enough, bit of history is nice...
Unless its got highish mileage and should have...
crap manufacture,or a driver being a hooligan of the line far to many times. Or a combination of riding the clutch and the above...
You normally find its operator error........but not always!
If the shaft has ever been changed its quite possible the gaiter bolts have been overtightened and one has stripped causing fluid to (eventually leak)
I had that on my old 16v, while replacing the shafts i helicoiled the casing and never had a problem after that...
You will need very heavy gauge cable to supply current to the starter and then back to battery from the alternator. Ie in the region of 200Amp capabilities or about 16mm squared minimum. 25mm squared ideally.
This (obviously) is very thick, do you want that running down the inside of your...
yeah but you have no suspension travel. 30-40mm lower than standard is all you need, depending on wheel size etc etc
much lower and your dampers are trying to work to hard over to short a stroke. And youll do bearings/shafts/bushes a lot faster.
Finally someone put 2 and 2 together. A; who ever said Frank crashed #01? and B; yes, hes been in a wheekchair since the late 80s. No clios back then...
Check the switch on the pedal is being operated correctly when you puch the pedal. Check the 2 spade teminals on the pedal-quite possibly a bad earth somewhere, pull both rear clusters off and investigate,
Cool-least you didnt end up smashing the column with a hammer an ruining something you wish you hadnt!
Didnt see your first post otherwise I would have replied sooner!
Just get the corner weights out-very accurate-only, very expensive for a good set...
Should really do it without driver as some are gonna be advantaged/disadvantaged for obvious reasons!!!
Doesnt really matter about fuel levels, as long as you all agree on empty, half or full etc...
Check the gearbox oil level-sometimes if the levels a bit low and you are at constant revs and speed for a while (eg motorway) they can jump out, my old one did but with the right amount of fresh oil it was fine.