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It's not the rack that gets welded, it's the UJ at the bottom of the steering column.

The Clio tank is an odd shape.

The fuel pump is fine, only smell the fuel through the vents when the car starts from cold. Don't smell it at any other time. I'm going to prime the pump a few times to increase pressure and check for leaks in the whole system.

I get about 200 max from a full tank in my hybrid, but I only drive on local roads, with speed humps, width restrictions, speed cams and sh*t loads of traffic, so there is a lot of slowing down and speeding up. I do have a minor fuel leak though, which I still can't find, but can sure smell it!!

Poly mounts are the way to go. I've got a full Mongoose system with decat and it was catching on the rear beam until I changed the rubber mounts for the poly ones. Cheap as chips and well worth doing.

Guide is good, pity the pictures don't work!!! Fronts are easy mate, haven't attempted the rears yet, put that off whilst I fitted the Willy lump, won't be too bad though.

I thought mine was bad and it's on 17's. But then I drove my mates Saxo VTR. That is absolutely terrible!

Autoglym engine and machine cleaner.

I attached the spring to the ratchet and fitted onto the bar. I then used fishing braid (very strong, but will cut your finger off, use gloves) to bring the spring down to the clip on the back of the pedal. Very fiddly to do.

Use a genuine Renault one. I used one from GSF and it didn't seem to be great quality and was leaking again within a month.

Handles yes, but switches are mounted in the door pocket.

Should be fine with that mate. My old 5 Turbo was darker than that and the cops never said anything about it and I used to get pulled a lot in that car. Was only 18 mind, LOL!

I did put a feed on the Viper from the standard air intake and it was a lot better, but due to the size of the filter and the route the tubing had to take, the tubing just ended up splitting. It wasn't too bad on the open road, but I was commuting into London a lot when I had it on and...

I've got a Mongoose and I had to replace the mounting rubbers with poly ones from Rally Design before it stopped knocking. Only cost about £15 iirc. Worth doing, it was absolutely awful before. James

Why do you think I sold the Viper to you? The adaptor is the problem, it restricts the airflow into the throttle body.

Williams has oil cooler (some 16v's have these too), spot on top of dipstick and lower rev limit. Also different starter motor.

I used a grommet on the bulkhead on the passenger side, not too sure what other wires went through it. I'll try and get a picture for you tonight.

Check rear dog-bone engine mount for play. You can do this by trying to rock engine back and forth.

Done all mine in a day with no problems. As said above, soak strut tops with WD-40 or Plus Gas, also spray the ends of your torsion bars with WD-40 everyday for a week. Mine came out no problems after doing this. Just make sure you have every part and tools that you will need.

Renault is the only place and as Patty says you have to buy the whole rear quarter. Silly money too.

Might even be able to get a bit more off than that due to the rear arches. The rusty area needs to be cut out and new metal welded in etc, otherwise the rust will come back. Once it starts going a little, it will get very bad very quickly. Mine had a little spot of rust on about 6 months ago...

Should the clutch cable be taught where it attaches to the clutch pedal? Cheers James

Its not advertised with the higher limiter anymore.

Water pump

Never goes over half way. Newish rad, low temp thermostat and switch. Also flush the system with a hose every 6 months. Always a bit paranoid about coolant systems. Stems from my 5 turbo days.

Why is your temp warning light on? Needle level looks ok.

Have a word on Retro-Renault.com about the immobiliser, they always seem to be wripping out old alarm systems on their project cars. They also have a number of pics on engine fitting. Have a look through the project cars section. You can keep the power steering, the 16v comes with it. Make...

Had the same thing on mine. Used to run the fuel quite low and it must have sucked up some of the sediment in the tank. Ran injector cleaner through it and new fuel filter and its fine. One other thing and this probably doesnt apply, my 16v runs terrible on Texaco fuel, everything else its...

If its like the MK1, you need to take the steering column shrouds off, disconnect the wiring for the stalk, unbolt and remove. Hope this helps.

Get it cut out and new metal welded in and properly undersealed. I realise that this sounds extreme, but if it is ground out and filled, it will be back before you know it.